Key fob won't unlock, but will open hatch.

[Bdc101]

Weird problem this week. My key fobs both won't unlock or lock the doors. But they'll unlock the hatch.

Likewise, the interior lock button doesn't work, and the interior lights don't turn on when I open the door.

This all happened after an odd episode where my hazards stayed on for the first five minutes of a trip, while not clicking in the dash, and my blinkers wouldn't work no matter what I did. After about five minutes of driving it stopped and the blinkers and hazards work fine now. Ever since, I've had the fob and lock issue.

I searched and found a GM5 (or GM3) module might be the problem. I found a site https://www.bmwgm5.com which will repair but the cost is $130. It looks like you can get junkyard units for much less than that. Would I have to take it to the dealer to recode if I got a different one?

Anyone else had this problem and solved it any other way? My car is a 2003 with the five speed, in case it matters. Thanks!!

[Qsilver7]

I personally would consider more options vs jumping straight to the GM being the issue.



What happens if you try to lock the car from the exterior driver's door lock cylinder? Does the central locking system lock all of the doors/trunk/fuel filler door? Does it activate DWA (the anti-theft alarm siren) system and the red status LED in the clown nose below the rear view mirror starts to flash?


Remote/keyless central locking will shut down when there's an issue with one of the central locking system locking actuators. That would be all door lock actuators, the fuel filler door actuator, and trunk actuator. And since you said the interior central locking button isn't working (which is rare) then perhaps something is wrong, disconnected, or a fuse is blown. Have you checked ALL of the fuses for the central locking system?



Have you tried to simply reinitialize your remote keys, yet? If not...that's free...and if it works...you've saved yourself a lot of time and effort.

TIPS:

• KL R = ignition position 1 (not position 2 or 3 or engine running etc)
• make sure ALL doors are UNLOCKED
• make sure ALL doors are CLOSED
• only insert the 1st remote into the ignition...start the 2nd remote (like explained in STEP 3 & SETP 6) pressing the buttons as explained in STEP 3

[Bdc101]

Qsilver, your posts are always so helpful. Sorry about the delay, let me answer your questions.

1. If I lock the car from the door cylinder, the alarm is set and the car locks as usual. The clown nose blinks.

2. I don't think there is an issue with any locking or alarming components, but I'm not sure. Would it set a fault that I could read on the OBDII? I checked codes and there were no faults stored or pending. All doors lock correctly and the clown nose blinks when locked, as I mentioned. I do have the hood switch unplugged since the summer, since it was setting the alarm erroneously.

3. I checked the fuses in the trunk and none are blown.

I did not reinitialize the keys, since both keys suddenly don't work, and I'm guessing that that means it's not a key problem. Too much of a coincidence, right? Or am I missing something?

Does it seem like the GM module is likely the culprit based on these results?

Thanks again!

[cn90]

- Do you have a 2nd key to try?

- Is the battery inside the FOB OK? Some people replace it at this age.

[Bdc101]

Both keys exhibit the exact same behavior, and the problem started at the same time for both.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by Bdc101

Qsilver, your posts are always so helpful. Sorry about the delay, let me answer your questions.

1. If I lock the car from the door cylinder, the alarm is set and the car locks as usual. The clown nose blinks.

2. I don't think there is an issue with any locking or alarming components, but I'm not sure. Would it set a fault that I could read on the OBDII? I checked codes and there were no faults stored or pending. All doors lock correctly and the clown nose blinks when locked, as I mentioned. I do have the hood switch unplugged since the summer, since it was setting the alarm erroneously.

3. I checked the fuses in the trunk and none are blown.

I did not reinitialize the keys, since both keys suddenly don't work, and I'm guessing that that means it's not a key problem. Too much of a coincidence, right? Or am I missing something?

Does it seem like the GM module is likely the culprit based on these results?

Thanks again!

I still recommend re-initializing the remote keys...give it a try...there's nothing to lose. Just make sure you have both remotes during the same session and follow the instructions as written.

• only insert the 1st remote into the ignition (2nd remote start on STEP 3 as outlined in STEP 6...and start where it says to press the remote's buttons)
• all doors MUST be CLOSED
• all doors MUST be UNLOCKED
• KL R = ignition position 1 (not position 2)

Personally...I'm still not sold yet on pointing the finger directly at the GM...because I still don't have good feelings about this statement you made:

Likewise, the interior lock button doesn't work, and the interior lights don't turn on when I open the door.

Those two points are troubling in that the first one can cause an issue with remote lock/unlock (if there's an issue with a central locking actuator or switch...it will shut down remote locking 90% of the time). And if the interior lights don't illuminate when a door is opened...they are either turned off (by pressing & holding the interior light button on the headliner for approx 3-5 seconds)...or something in the door switch has malfunctioned and not sending data that the door is open.



Since the door switch & actuator are "monitors" that shared between the central locking system (FZV) and the alarm siren system (DWA)...something failed in this area, too...could create a remote locking failure.


When you lock the vehicle (manually) using the exterior driver's door lock cylinder...what is the clown nose flashing pattern? Does it flash fast at first, then slow down to the normal flash? If it does, then it means that one of the monitors is faulted...and again, since the doors share monitors with FZV & DWA...this could be pointing in that direction.

[Bdc101]

I think it flashes quickly at first, but if I recall it's done that since I unplugged the hood alarm switch when it was alarming in the hot sun.

I'll check again and also will reset the keys bases on your recommendation. Hopefully I'll get to it a bit quicker this time. ��

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

I still recommend re-initializing the remote keys...give it a try...there's nothing to lose. ...

I completely agree with this. These systems are just so complex, that trying to rationally rule out a root cause may not make sense when you can just reset things.

I would even go one step further, to recharge the internal batteries in the key fobs. I know the fact that the fobs are partially functional suggests that their batteries are good, but still, I would do this - maybe it is related to low fob batteries vs. dead ones.

My method for doing this is to put my x5 in my driveway with a battery charger hooked up to it, one key in and ON and the other one(s) taped to it so they get charged too. Then leave it overnight like that. If your x5 is still there the next day, the key batteries should be charged up (and your x5 battery too).

Then do the resetting of the remote entry stuff.

It may not do it, but it might. This procedure once saved me from some serious head scratching and troubleshooting.

[Bdc101]

Ok, so leaving the key in the ignition turned to "on" will recharge the key batteries??? I did not know that .

I do have it parked in the garage for a while and I have a trickle charger I can hook it up to. So I'll do that tonight. I hardly drive it in the winter.

[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by Bdc101

Ok, so leaving the key in the ignition turned to "on" will recharge the key batteries??? I did not know that .

I do have it parked in the garage for a while and I have a trickle charger I can hook it up to. So I'll do that tonight. I hardly drive it in the winter.

Yes, the rechargeable battery inside each key fob/head is recharged through an inductive energy transfer from a ring around the ignition key cylinder.

My method of leaving it ON definitely does work. That is the standard thing that is supposed to happen when you just drive around. But as batteries age and if short trips or infrequent drives mean the ratio of key fob activity / driving time is not sufficient to keep it charged ...

I have read on here that ACC or even LOCK/OFF positions will work, but I have not tested those.

Crowz posted about buying a smart-watch charger that he found to work as well:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...w-key-fob.html