Window makes a "clank" every time I open it...

[Muleears]

Drivers window so I'm sure its getting ready to go... What parts am I going to need? I didn't see a DIY in the "How to's". I read somewhere its just a bushing going bad, can I buy just the bushing and is it a ______ to replace? Or should I replace the whole regulator? I imagine at 300K that window has gone up and down a time or two.

Thanks for the help.

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by Muleears

Drivers window so I'm sure its getting ready to go... What parts am I going to need? I didn't see a DIY in the "How to's". I read somewhere its just a bushing going bad, can I buy just the bushing and is it a ______ to replace? Or should I replace the whole regulator? I imagine at 300K that window has gone up and down a time or two.

Thanks for the help.

Most common issue is the plastic window clips. Anyway, look at this thread for how to get in there and have a look.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...dow-clips.html

[Muleears]

Originally Posted by Overboost

Most common issue is the plastic window clips. Anyway, look at this thread for how to get in there and have a look.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...dow-clips.html

That gives me what I need! Already have the clips im my shopping cart. Thank You and Merry Christmas.

[stiubhartach]

Second vote for the plastic clips. Always order extra. They break often when the window is out of alignment. Plus order a couple of screws to replace the one you’ll drop in the door.

[Gregory891]

As you replace the two plastic clips, do this during warm weather and use a heat gun to soften up the vapor barrier foam adhesive (tacky black tar type adhesive) which can allow you to gently pull back or cut (razor blade or similar). If you are considering Dynamat, this is a perfect time to do this (been there, done that).

[Muleears]

Thank you gentlemen, all are good suggestions. If I need to do this during "warm" weather it may have to wait. Warm weather here now is 60*F.

I most assuredly will order extra screws, I WILL drop at least one down into the door...and probably listen to it rattle for eternity

Thanks again.

[crystalworks]

The screws are easy enough to retrieve with a magnet on a stick. The cheap ones you see at the auto store checkout counter that have the telescoping bodies. Like a pointer your primary teacher would have used when using the large pull down maps. I have a couple of those in stock in different sizes/strengths for when I drop things into the multiple abyss' in BMW's.

While in there be sure to do the zip tie fix to get an almost permanent repair. Keeps the regulator cable from popping out of the plastic sliders which causes regulator failure. Sometimes catastrophic requiring the entire regulator to be replaced.

[Muleears]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

The screws are easy enough to retrieve with a magnet on a stick. The cheap ones you see at the auto store checkout counter that have the telescoping bodies. Like a pointer your primary teacher would have used when using the large pull down maps. I have a couple of those in stock in different sizes/strengths for when I drop things into the multiple abyss' in BMW's.

While in there be sure to do the zip tie fix to get an almost permanent repair. Keeps the regulator cable from popping out of the plastic sliders which causes regulator failure. Sometimes catastrophic requiring the entire regulator to be replaced.

Good reminder, I already have one of those magnets and a "claw" retreival tools. I will also search the "zip tie fix" to see what that's about. Thanks!

[mr_robot]

When removing the vapor barrier I noticed if you peel it or pull on it, it will rip.

Use a wide non-marring tool and just push the butyl tape holding it.

Also the butyl is old and hard and won't stick back too well.

I originally went to the dealer to buy some and they wanted $11 a yard plus they wouldn't sell me the whole roll (I was in a pinch).

I tried butyl seal used for retrofitting headlights (comes ina roll of beads) but they are heat activated and it wasn't sticking to well either.

Then I bought this from Amazon:
XFasten Butyl Seal Tape 1/8-Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLQ3WLS...o_pop_ma_share

Looks exactly like the oem butyl tape and this thing is tacky even in 35-40 degree weather I was able to get it to stick very well.


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[Clockwork]

Even tho the new plastic parts will be used, I still recommend you put hot water, not boiling, in a mug and put these 4 new parts in there while you go to work on removing the doors, weather foam material...by the way invest in a heat gun and it will make this job so much easier. Heat up the weather foam a bit and put a sharp long cutting blade in the butyl putty/tape and start cutting and gently pulling back the weatherproof membrane. Then when you have the clips replaced and you are ready to put the weatherproof membrane back, use heat gun again to heat the butyl tape on the metal door side and then work the weatherproofing membrane back on and continue to gently heat this and you can slide it back into exact same position that the factory had it at and you will not need to buy new tape then. Works everytime for me, multiple times on same door.
It's actually not a hard job BUT do not rush it
And make sure the bolts/nuts that go into these plastic clips are tight
If not you will be doing the same repair again but only because a nut has unscrewed itself... Ask me how I know.

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