Massive oil leak on passenger side

[Don Nguyen]

Originally Posted by cn90

I'd do the OFH Gasket first ($6 item at dealer) simply b/c it is easy and at 185K miles, it is probably leaking anyway.

I HAD similar leak on the stiffening plate, I replaced the OFH gasket and problem was solved. That was 4 years ago.

When doing the OFH, search for bimmerfest E39 DIY I wrote over there. I also wrote similar DIY in this Xoutpost E53 forum.

The key with M54 is to tighten the 6 bolts in sequence, waiting a few minutes in between to allow the gasket the seat properly.

Make sure you clean the old oil, otherwise it will continue to drip down for a while, making you think that the new OFH gasket did not fix the problem. This happened to me b/c I did not clean the old oil well, one week after new OFH gasket, I saw some oil but it turned out to be residual oil.

I'll take a look at it again. I have a camera scope that I used to inspect the area around the OFH and it was relatively dry. Good tip on reinstalling the gasket for the OFH.

When doing the OFH or oil pan gasket, what are some things I should order/do while in there, so that I can make sure I don't end up having to re-order and wait for anything to come the following week. Do I just need the respective gaskets for each of those pieces and should be good? I think maybe I read something about some sensors attached to the oil pan that should have the o-rings replaced along the same time if doing the oil pan gasket?

[oldskewel]

If you do the OFHG, the VANOS oil line is right there, which is on the leaks greatest hits list for this engine. I'm pretty sure the top end of it has to be removed when removing the OFH. If that line leaks, now would be a good time to replace it. The oil line has banjo bolts on both ends, both requiring a pair of crush washers.

And I do agree with the other good advice you've got regarding isolating the leak carefully by cleaning and inspecting, and by doing the easier OFHG before touching the oil pan gasket.

[cn90]

For the OFH Gasket, I did it the "lazy" way.
I simply loosened the Banjo bolts just a bit so I can twist loose to expose the gasket for replacement.
Then once done, just tighten it a bit.

Re Banjo bolt washers, if you clearly mark the orientation, very tiny sharpie marks where such as below (one RED dot on a particular side of washer, and 2 RED dots on a particular side of other washer), you virtually never have to replace these washers. I have done quite a few Banjo washers, I always re-used these washers. Look carefully once you remove the washers, they have a distinct indentation from the bolt. As long as the same orientation is respected, you can re-use them (ditto for oil pan drain bolt).

[bcredliner]

Suggest being very careful if you decide to tighten the pan bolts more than specified torque and also to use a torque wrench. Last thing you want to do is risk snapping off a bolt. If I find the bolts are torqued properly I usually bite the bullet and replace leaking gaskets. That's based on lack of success I have had torquing them again in the past. Once a gasket is compressed the odds are not good even over torquing will be a fix.

[andrewwynn]

Mostly agree with above. First: absolutely on the torque wrench but as mentioned above, I would probably add 10% to the factory spec torque then add some angle to that as long as the final torque was still no more than 15-20% extra. These are probably a stupid small amount of torque like 8-10 N·m so three final result woukd be 9-12 N·m of torque. With numbers that small it's extremely important that a torque wrench is used.

Also: this thought is only "punting" the inevitable, but I'd do it if it means I can do the gasket change next year vs this year.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by cn90

For the OFH Gasket, I did it the "lazy" way.

I simply loosened the Banjo bolts just a bit so I can twist loose to expose the gasket for replacement.

Then once done, just tighten it a bit.



Re Banjo bolt washers, if you clearly mark the orientation, very tiny sharpie marks where such as below (one RED dot on a particular side of washer, and 2 RED dots on a particular side of other washer), you virtually never have to replace these washers. I have done quite a few Banjo washers, I always re-used these washers. Look carefully once you remove the washers, they have a distinct indentation from the bolt. As long as the same orientation is respected, you can re-use them (ditto for oil pan drain bolt).

Clever on the crush washers. No point to re use the oil pan washer as the filter comes with one, but if I were to drain and fill without changing the filter I will definitely remember that trick


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[-TCB---7]

You can also anneal copper crush washers back to a soft state so they'll conform and re-seal. Requires heating them up red hot for a minute or two and then allowing them to cool slowly. Electric stove burners work great for that--just set it right on the element and the time it takes for the element to cool when you shut it off is about right for annealing.

[bcredliner]

I don't reuse parts that should not be. In this case they are even very cheap to purchase new. I don't take the risk of not correcting the problem or having it fail a short time later even with tons of input to the contrary. It's unnecessary risk and just not best practice.

[fillmoho]

Originally Posted by Don Nguyen

Experiencing a massive oil leak all of a sudden. The oil is leaking down where the engine/transmission meets and also where the front passenger side axle connects to the oil pan. Valve cover gasket was done the same time this oil leak started to develop. Of course, I thought maybe the valve cover gasket was kinked somewhere, but inspecting the perimeter of the valve cover gasket, it looks to be dry/clean. I can't seem to find a higher point where the oil can be coming from when inspecting around the oil pan/engine block area. Is there something that I may be overlooking or simply not seeing that I should double check?

I left the car sitting for two weeks and came back to a 1'x2' large oil stain on the driveway.

hav u checked the ccv on back pass. side of engine theres a hose from that down to oil pan? i believe and another rubber line going across top of engine to a pipe on drv side!

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[oldskewel]

Originally Posted by -TCB---7

You can also anneal copper crush washers back to a soft state so they'll conform and re-seal. Requires heating them up red hot for a minute or two and then allowing them to cool slowly. Electric stove burners work great for that--just set it right on the element and the time it takes for the element to cool when you shut it off is about right for annealing.

Great tip on the annealing.

I had never heard of that one and it makes sense, and is easy. I've usually done the annealing cooldown by putting the parts in hot ashes (which are hot and provide insulation) in the fireplace, which is not near as readily convenient as an electric stove.