'01 3.0i Project - Soft-Roading on the Cheap (Also, Lots of Dash Lights!)

[andrewwynn]

On the low cluster there is a separate icon for worn pads. It looks like drum brake: something like: (O)

You should be able to see the icon at key on. I did not see it illuminated and it won't set the trifecta though I can't remember if it sets the brake.

If your trifecta turns off for a cold start and comes on after you drive a bit it's likely the wheel sensor.

I would swap sensors to see if the problem migrates before replacing it's more likely internal to the abs module than the actual sensor which has no moving parts and can last a million miles.

MAF again don't waste spray of you have a code. Code says MAF is missing not reading poorly something the computer will have no idea about.

MAF cleaner helps if O2 reporting constant lean or rich condition that can't be traced to something else.

Theory goes like this:

O2 measures for unburned fuel in the exhaust and the computer adds or subtracts how much fuel to inject based on how much air is measured with MAF.

If no reading from MAF you'll get an MAF error but If the MAF is reading incorrectly the computer will keep sending the wrong amount of gas. It will try to correct with the fuel trim offset but you'll eventually get a too rich or too lean O2 related error not an MAF error even when that's the source of the problem.

New boot OEM hopefully. I tried to use a knock off once (only because of prime availability) and it wasnt actually corrugated just had ridges on the outside so it just collapsed when bent.

If boot is original you can't get to the back hose clamp clearly installed from the bottoms before engine put in the car so cut the old one off makes it simple just make sure the new one flexes or you'll have to super glue the old one back together while the quality replacement comes.

[Brake_L8]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

On the low cluster there is a separate icon for worn pads. It looks like drum brake: something like: (O)

You should be able to see the icon at key on. I did not see it illuminated and it won't set the trifecta though I can't remember if it sets the brake.

If your trifecta turns off for a cold start and comes on after you drive a bit it's likely the wheel sensor.

I would swap sensors to see if the problem migrates before replacing it's more likely internal to the abs module than the actual sensor which has no moving parts and can last a million miles.

MAF again don't waste spray of you have a code. Code says MAF is missing not reading poorly something the computer will have no idea about.

MAF cleaner helps if O2 reporting constant lean or rich condition that can't be traced to something else.

Theory goes like this:

O2 measures for unburned fuel in the exhaust and the computer adds or subtracts how much fuel to inject based on how much air is measured with MAF.

If no reading from MAF you'll get an MAF error but If the MAF is reading incorrectly the computer will keep sending the wrong amount of gas. It will try to correct with the fuel trim offset but you'll eventually get a too rich or too lean O2 related error not an MAF error even when that's the source of the problem.

OK, I'll check for the pad life indicator on start - my E36s have had that so I know what to look for.

We can swap wheel speed sensors left-to-right this weekend and I will have a new one coming on the off chance it needs replacing. I'm assuming if the code remains at the Front Right, it points to the ABS module needing rebuilt.

With the MAF and O2 codes - your theory makes total sense now that I read the error code more carefully. Still worth replacing the one O2 sensor given it's complaining about voltage to the one in particular (pre-cat, bank 2)?

[trentcdrums]

This was my issue as well. Ended up going to the yard and pulling an ABS module with the same part # out of the Same year X5 and then re-calibrated the steering wheel with DIS and all good.

[andrewwynn]

The O2 likely shot. Pad life sensor should throw up the (O) icon.


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[Brake_L8]

Made it downstairs to plug the scan tool back in just now. Learned a few things.

1. Keys
I re-synced both "diamond" key fobs so that the remotes would work again. They both synchronized and worked to lock/unlock the doors until I turned the car off. Then it was like I had never done it.

2. Dash Indicator Lights
There was a brief moment at first where the fog light indicator, both turn signals, the hazards, and high beams all were indicating properly in the cluster. Then I breathed too hard and they all stopped working again. The fog light indicator came back on briefly (and correctly) when I put the car back in Park.

3. O2 Sensors
I got live data on these! The reader shows the following:

• O2B1 S1 - This value changes as I drive
• O2B1 S2 - This value is stuck at 0.430 V
• O2B2 S1 - This value is stuck at 0.430 V
• O2B2 S2 - This value changes as I drive

So, I think I have at least one dead O2 sensor if not two. The pre-cat sensors are the ones that seem to actually matter, though.

4. MAF Mystery
SOLVED. Ish. I noticed the live MAF data on the scan tool was not showing at all, either at idle, when revving in Park, or while accelerating in Drive. Just a 0.00 lb/s readout. Popped the hood and found a MAF that isn't secure in its plastic tube, and appears to have one of the two little prong-y things broken in half. I suppose that'll do it:





I guess I'm ordering a new one.

[andrewwynn]

O2 stuck not functioning however the computer may be just using the base value so the car will run.

Post cat sensors are almost entirely to cause us grief they aren't part of the running equation.

The keys may still be working but weak. I had very similar situation with mine try to use one immediately after locking with the key cylinder or also press quite firmly. If you get intermittent fuction it means most likely the solder joints need to be reflowed. Both mine was the case.


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[Brake_L8]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The keys may still be working but weak. I had very similar situation with mine try to use one immediately after locking with the key cylinder or also press quite firmly. If you get intermittent fuction it means most likely the solder joints need to be reflowed. Both mine was the case.

I figured they could be low on juice. The car hasn't been driven much all year, based on the limited records I have. Once I get the MAF/O2 replaced, I'll start driving it to work for a week or so and that should help get the key batteries recharged.

[Brake_L8]

Mileage: 194,750

Great day yesterday with a bunch of friends. We made a lot of progress on the X5 and I learned a lot in the process. So...

Cleaning
Sweet Jesus this thing was disgusting inside. We attacked the hazy headlights with Plastic-X and brought them back to new(er), replaced the torn steering wheel with a $25 junkyard replacement I found yesterday morning in Lorton. We slathered the seats in Leatherique, which is hilarious but also worked to legitimately clean them up. I vacuumed the interior and removed several pounds of dog hair, lollipop sticks, Beanie Baby hangtags, and coins. My friend Jack and I attacked the carpets with a Rug Doctor and got them surprisingly clean again. It all sounds kind of silly on a $1500 beater, but it does make it a more pleasant place to spend time and will help a little with resale.

The car washed up pretty well, too!*

MAF
The new MAF eliminated the transmission failure light and the car shifts like buttah. Yay.

Wheel Speed Sensor
We replaced the WSS on the front right and repaired the shitty already-repaired wiring. The code for "inlet valve, front right" is still there. Harumph.

O2 Sensor
Taylor broke his O2 socket as I arrived so we didn't tackle this yet. The Bank 1 sensors are accessed from the top of the car and don't look all bad to do.*

Electronics
The whole car continues to freak out about random things. In my case, things go down and then come back based on slamming of doors or hitting bumps or whatever. I think it's a general K-Bus problem.

Tom replaced the ignition switch and that didn't seem to change anything. I got the Schwaben tool to show live battery data and it's consistently at 13.x or 14.x volts with the car running.

I am turning my attention to the Eonon cheap Chinese radio that's installed now.

I got in touch with the previous owner (more on that in a sec) and he said the electronic issues all started when he had Best Buy install the Eonon. So, I'm heading up to Jessup, MD today to the LKQ junkyard. They have two 3.0i pre-LCI X5s and I plan on stealing every piece of the radio from them. I suspect the Eonon has some shitty wiring work behind it and/or the Canbus adapter is failing.*

Previous Owner
The previous owners called me last night and were super friendly (I found the wife on LinkedIn). They live nearby and owned the X5 from 2003 until about March of this year, it was a dealer demo or something for the first two years. He did much of the work himself and could recall every little thing about it. He claimed that all of this had been done in the last two years:

• Radiator
• Water pump
• Thermostat
• Drive belts
• VANOS unit
• Valve cover gasket
• Spark plugs
• Window regulators x4
• ABS module rebuild (really)
• Bank 2, Sensor 1 O2 replacement
• Battery
• Alternator
• Eonon head unit install (after MID pixels died on OEM unit)

So I think it has good bones. He told me about these repairs without my prompting so I don't think he's trying to prove anything about how he cared for it. Moreso just a "oh yeah I did this too" - he was pretty up front with everything and kept adding "oh yeah one more" as we talked for about half an hour. I feel better given they owned it for so long continuously, versus a nine-owner example (*cough* my E46 M3). I am hoping this radio replacement will cure a lot of the electronic ailments or at least provide a good baseline. The car honestly drives fine as-is, but I'd like a bit more consistency in how, like, the reverse lights work.

Under the rear seat:



Tom working on the wheel speed sensor wiring:



"We have to have lines in the carpet or the internet will make fun of you!"





This is what came out of the Rug Doctor:



Cleaned up:



I really don't hate this thing one bit. The trip is going to be rad.

[Brake_L8]

So I'm back from Crazy Ray's with a new Business CD player, MID/tuner, and amp. The amp works currently so no need to swap it. I pulled the Eonon out and holy wiring hell. Unfortunately, the wiring hell isn't related to my problem. The MID will not light up if I plug it in, but the CD player can eject a disc.

All Googles so far suggest some funky wiring. Maybe near the parking brake lever? The loss of signals/high beam/fog light and random chimes/door ajar is common among E39 and E53 and it is a K-Bus/Canbus issue. Apparently I can pull Fuse 14 and that may reset... something.

My K-Bus issue comes and goes and seems to be related to putting the car in and out of Park. Maybe some pinched wire near there, I dunno. This would bother me a whole lot less, except the reverse lights don't work as part of this problem. Ugh.

Anyway, the X5 handled the 70 mile round trip to the junkyard with ease. Rides alright. Shocks are v. tired.

[Overboost]

A couple of things. Since it had an Eonon double din installed the PO may have butchered the mounting frame that holds the MID in place, check that. Secondly the radio/tuner is in the Business CD just to verify. I would look for the fuse for the MID, perhaps it is blown or missing. Recheck your connection and check fuse 7,41.