Aux fan issue 4.6is

[PalmSpringsE534.6]

Hive mind...today my AC got warm when I was stationary. Saw the Aux fan wasn't running. DME set code for Aux fan. Went and bought new fan as that seems to be the answer. Before I tore off my front nose, I plugged in the new fan...no bueno. I'm seeing some conflicting info on trouble shooting. Here are my questions:

1. Is red supposed to be hot at all times, when key is on...or not hot all times? I get no power when I probe between red and black.

2. My ground is good...

3. I get variable voltage between black and brown (brown is PWM signal right?) so that seems like the DME is sending signal to the fan.

I checked the 50A fuses and none are blown. Is there anything else in-line between the fuse box and that fan red wire that I need to check?

I'm seeing folks talk about pulling the connector off the AC pressure ...and some have to put on a jumper to get the fan to run...is that necessary on this engine or should I just ramp to full speed when the sensor is unplugged?

I issued the command to run the new fan from INPA but it did NOT start.

Who's had this gremlin and conquered it? If I can get the replacement fan to run then I will remove the front and swap the fan...but its 115 out and if it's something else...I would like the break from the heat.

My X has gotten a bit temperamental this month. This week it gets a front end suspension refresh as after I changed to poly thrust arm bushings...I then cracked a front left lower control arm bushing. So all new Lemforder front end suspension and new struts as well for the heck of it.

As you can imagine...at these temps having a properly working AC is pretty important.

p.s.
How does the MAP cooling thermostat trigger the DME to turn on the fan...I just noticed that I have a MAP cooling error so I guess the heater went out on my thermostat as well. Found while typing this out and praying. LOL.

[Purplecty]

Originally Posted by PalmSpringsE534.6

Hive mind...today my AC got warm when I was stationary. Saw the Aux fan wasn't running. DME set code for Aux fan. Went and bought new fan as that seems to be the answer. Before I tore off my front nose, I plugged in the new fan...no bueno. I'm seeing some conflicting info on trouble shooting. Here are my questions:



1. Is red supposed to be hot at all times, when key is on...or not hot all times? I get no power when I probe between red and black.



2. My ground is good...



3. I get variable voltage between black and brown (brown is PWM signal right?) so that seems like the DME is sending signal to the fan.



I checked the 50A fuses and none are blown. Is there anything else in-line between the fuse box and that fan red wire that I need to check?



I'm seeing folks talk about pulling the connector off the AC pressure ...and some have to put on a jumper to get the fan to run...is that necessary on this engine or should I just ramp to full speed when the sensor is unplugged?



I issued the command to run the new fan from INPA but it did NOT start.



Who's had this gremlin and conquered it? If I can get the replacement fan to run then I will remove the front and swap the fan...but its 115 out and if it's something else...I would like the break from the heat.



My X has gotten a bit temperamental this month. This week it gets a front end suspension refresh as after I changed to poly thrust arm bushings...I then cracked a front left lower control arm bushing. So all new Lemforder front end suspension and new struts as well for the heck of it.



As you can imagine...at these temps having a properly working AC is pretty important.



p.s.

How does the MAP cooling thermostat trigger the DME to turn on the fan...I just noticed that I have a MAP cooling error so I guess the heater went out on my thermostat as well. Found while typing this out and praying. LOL.

What is the INPA error exactly?

[upallnight]

Red is suppose to be HOT all the time. I guess that when the fan blew it blew the 50 amp fuse which you should be thanksful that BMW engineers decided to include in the fan circuit unlike the engineers at AUDI.

[PalmSpringsE534.6]

Fuse is not blown. Power is good at the fuse as well. I think I have a broken hot somewhere.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by PalmSpringsE534.6

Fuse is not blown. Power is good at the fuse as well. I think I have a broken hot somewhere.

That should be easy to find. You may not have a blown aux fan in this case. If the aux fan didn't spin up when you first started the car, there is no way the DME would receive the signal that the aux fan is good, hence it threw up the bad fan code.

[Clavurion]

There was a recent thread where the vehicle was pre-facelift and it still it had the facelift wiring for aux fan. So the supply comes from 60 A main fuse (F107) behind front fuse box.

[upallnight]

I would start probing the hot wire from the fan back to the fuse box. Most likely the break is near the connector at the fan. I had the starter signal wire for my Audi break just a couple of inches away from the connection to the starter solenoid. Thought nit was a bad starter, but when I attach my remote starter between the hot wire to the starter and the signal wire to the solenoid I was able to spin the starter. So the starter was not the problem.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

There was a recent thread where the vehicle was pre-facelift and it still it had the facelift wiring for aux fan. So the supply comes from 60 A main fuse (F107) behind front fuse box.

I had a pre-facelifted X5 and the fuse was just like the regular blade fuses in the fuse box only 10 times bigger in size. The fuse look nothing like your photo.

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by upallnight

I had a pre-facelifted X5 and the fuse was just like the regular blade fuses in the fuse box only 10 times bigger in size. The fuse look nothing like your photo.

I know. This is how it should be in pre-facelift.

[Purplecty]

Was this ever resolved?