emergency flashers come on every time alarm is deactivated and then key turned on

myeaglescout · #1 12-22-2019, 09:15 PM

All door actuators and the central locking/emergency flasher button assembly are working fine. I even tried another central locking/flasher button assembly to see if it made a difference, but alas, no. The flashers come on by themselves when the ignition key is turned to on ONLY if I lock car manually by turning key clockwise all the way 2 times to lock all doors and set alarm.

Is this normal for anyone else out there?

BTW, battery in FOB is in need of replacement and has been removed until replacement arrives.

andrewwynn · #2 12-22-2019, 10:13 PM

If you lock twice that disables the motion sensor. Are you saying the flashers engage and stay blinking every time you unlock the car?

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myeaglescout · #3 12-23-2019, 08:50 AM

Yes, they stay blinking every time I turn off the alarm. It even does it if I don't lock or unlock the locks. If I just rotate 45 degrees CW to set alarm (single beep) and then rotate 45 degrees CCW to disarm, it does it

Since FOB is not working, the only way I know how to set alarm is the key.

If I lock and then unlock the car without setting alarm, the flashers don't go off the next time I turn on the ignition, so it's something to do with the alarm, I'm sure.

andrewwynn · #4 12-23-2019, 12:02 PM

Sounds like something funny going on with central locking.

Do you have a scanner that reads 2nd level codes?

45° turn of key should lock all the doors. 45° CW first time should unlock driver second time all doors.

Does your central lock button work properly?

Test your siren. I'm wondering if you are setting off the alarm but the siren isn't working. (roll down a window lock the doors and stick your arm inside. That should set off the motion sensor).

If the alarm sounds you should be able to disarm from the door lock. If it doesn't there is some miscommunication from the door lock to alarm or a problem with your key getting recognized.

Usually if a key can't get decoded for the alarm you also can't start so I don't think it's that.

Qsilver7 · #5 12-23-2019, 12:56 PM

Some of what the OP wrote is confusing and Andrewwynn covered some of it.

First, the DWA (anti-theft alarm siren system) is set when you lock the vehicle from the exterior driver's door lock cylinder or when you use the remote fob. The doors, trunk, hood, interior motion sensor and tilt sensor are all set when this happens.

If you turn the key in the driver's door lock cylinder TWICE or press the button on the remote fob TWICE..it disables the interior motion and tilt sensor...but it DOES NOT turn off the alarm siren system for the doors, trunk, and hood.

When you lock the car with the remote or from driver's door lock...and DWA is initiated...this should also activate the clown nose (the DWA status LED) below the interior rearview mirror. That light can indicate what is going on with your system.

When you lock the vehicle...what is your DWA status light doing (in regards to how it is flashing)? If you're getting a rapid flash immediately after arming the system...you have a failing monitor (either one of the doors, trunk, hood, IMS, or Tilt).

myeaglescout · #6 12-23-2019, 01:30 PM

Wow guys, thanks for all the help, and a Merry Christmas (Hanukkah, etc.) to you and yours.

I have a Foxwell 520 on the way, but not sure will read the "second level" codes you mentioned. Anyone know if it can?

Central locking unlocks all doors, but I have not been able to get it to lock them.

If alarm was set, when I turn ignition switch on (in addition to the emer flasers going off), all the doors unlock just like I had pressed the central lock button.

The key does it's thing at 45 degrees to lock and unlock (either the driver once and all doors with twice), and to arm and disarm the alarm, and having set it off a few times, I know it works for sure.

When alarm is set, the Rudolph nose blinks slowly and continuously without fail, as it should, unless I didn't close the hood first, or something else I did wrong, then it blinks really fast.

Fuel door and hatch seem to work fine, too.

wpoll · #7 12-23-2019, 01:56 PM

Tip: get the key fob sorted.

While this won't likely address your alarm issues, it might save you from a lockout... The key in the drivers door is not designed to be used continually as the primary lock/unlock method and is rather lightweight in construction. Using it as the primary lock/unlock method for an extended period can lead to it failing - probably when the car is locked, somewhere away from home... and at that point your options fall to very few and your recovery costs rise rather quickly...

myeaglescout · #8 12-23-2019, 10:46 PM

Tonight I noticed that I couldn't get the key to lock any doors when I
1) parked car
2) got out,
3) opened door, got out, closed door
4) turned key CW

I had to turn key CCW 45 degrees first until it beeped 2 times, then when I turned key back CW to the 45 degree spot, all doors locked.

myeaglescout · #9 12-23-2019, 10:49 PM

should have read that again before I posted. Please ignore fact that I "got out" before I opened the door. I guess I'm kinda tired.

andrewwynn · #10 12-24-2019, 12:48 AM

The Fox 520 will read all the modules and is about the best scanner for DIY on the BMW. Make sure you update the BMW plug in.

I have 4/5 brands in my foxwell and the BMW is by far the most useful compared to Toyota, GM, Chrysler.

Run the auto scan it will find things much faster than poking though reach l each module, you can save to memory any codes you'd like to come back to but usually there will be more than a dozen old codes stop I would just do a quick erase and only worry about the codes that come back