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#1
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NO McGyver for this one:Hood cable
Thanks again ..
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X5 3.0 AUTO -2001 - 238,000 miles |
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#2
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I don't know if you can replace just the handle. You might be able to swap, but I would replace the cable, it's likely the cable got coroded and caused enough extra force to break.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#3
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As someone who has just finished doing this job...
1st can you vice grip the cable to open the hood from inside? 2nd Did it break out of the handle or just pop the cable? As long as you can open it via the cable it's straight forward with the exception of the cable between hood posts ![]() ![]() Buy a set of body clips with the bail bayonet type as you will break them and the cable routing has got to be correct. If you're not able to open the hood start by removing the front clip and you'll basically pull the whole thing. ![]() Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk
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"When the Team Chief said.... You're trapped in a hole with nothing but a goat and a slinky, what do you do? Stubby said, I'm not sure but it won't end well for the goat...." ~(Overheard) Last day, Phase 3, Q Course |
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#4
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I don't know if this helps but I replaced the hood cable on my E39 1998 528i a while back.
Here is the DIY: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ion-Box)/page2
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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#5
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thin cheap cable
The cable snapped at the plastic handle inclusion where the small aluminum bead connects. I did get the hood open through the front grill. Messy. Thing is I ordered a complete cable replacement setup. But I see there are three screws that attach to the top frame rail where the two hood latches. The latches are beneath the frame rail top. Do they just slide out ? How easy is it to replace the cable between the two latches? The latches that attach through the cable connection are fine. It's just the cable connection to the handle in the car that needs snapped. So, is it worth the hassle to update the other cables?
Thanks.
__________________
X5 3.0 AUTO -2001 - 238,000 miles |
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#6
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The hood latches are held down with a few bolts I think torx. Remove the bolts lift the latch and the cable comes off with a simple test like twist basically
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#7
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How about a Redneck Repair???
Buy a $1.78 lug from the Home Depot electrical section. Cut away enough plastic to slip the lug over the metal rod in the release cable. Tighten. Then attach some kind of pull. Use a keyring ($.97 for a package by the key cutting station at Home Depot).
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#8
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NO McGyver for this one:Hood cable
I use those lugs for connecting aircraft cables to bolts or screws that would work very well.
A loop of paracord would be a lot more comfortable on your fingers since this would eliminate the leverage of the handle. The question of underlying issue is still at hand. Did the handle break due to neutron embrittlement from age or is the cable corroded and too hard to pull and needs to be replaced anyhow. I recently replaced a cable on a PT cruiser and it was a case of the cable getting corroded.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#9
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Just snapped
You're aware of the very small aluminum slug that the hood latch end under the dash attaches to the cable. The slug, the spring loaded release and the handle are all in perfect condition. But about a 1/4 inch along the cable from the slug to the black plastic outer coating is where the cable just snapped. It was unfrayed on both ends at the point where it snapped. The replacement part isn't that pricey so I ordered a new one,easier to deal with.
The new cable kit comes with the additional connection cable from the slider joint under the hood to the first drivers side latch. The 3 torx look easy enough to remove, but the latch is beneath a steel flat top rail and I don't see how it slides out. And it has to connect the cables from the hood latch system and the secondary latch. Does the secondary passenger latch have to be removed as well? It might not be worth the hassle.
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X5 3.0 AUTO -2001 - 238,000 miles |
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#10
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You have to remove the plastic shroud around the radiator to get the hood latches out (or cut an access hole which is what I've done in the past). I would start by just replace the first segment and see how the hood latches are operating. If they are great you are done. If they are sluggish or sticky I'd replace one phase at a time depending on which are slow. My wife's right latch sometimes doesn't. I'll be exploring sometime soon.
__________________
2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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