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#1
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Darn Door Latches, PITA
Ordered a new actuator. BUT, that darn little plastic ball cap that fits on the latch release is a bear to press on. Any tool or ideas on how to press that on more efficiently? My thumb/fingers don't have the strength to press that on. I am testing the key lock to see if that needs a rebuild. I thought it is supposed to manually unlock the driver door. It may be time to put this X out to pasture. Thanks for all the help everyone.
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X5 3.0 AUTO -2001 - 238,000 miles |
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#2
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I like to use an extra long nose pliers with a curved end. I've also used plastic trim tools at least to spread out the pressure on my thumb.
I've done enough times I know just how to push with my thumb. Make sure you are in the right groove on the cable side. Also sometimes you can hook up the cable before screwing in the actuator so you can access the ball clip with better tools. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#3
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Electric lock function at 45° twist manual lock with 90° twist.
If that didn't work either your lock cylinder or actuator need help. My remote doesn't work so I have to rebuild my lock cylinder about every year. Very weak design has maybe 500 use between failure.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#4
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MY bad. This X is driving me crazy! It seems the fob works fine, opens n closes. Even the passenger door is working again. Maybe a module? Anyway, it seems I can manually lock/unlock but can't open from outside, just the inside releases to open the door. And we all know what that means, DHC. The second one lasted just over 10 years, this will be the third. It be so cool to have a little press tool for the darn bulb. My right DHC, it came apart. The plastic bulb snapped off. I was able to put it back on the cable. The job is just a royal pain and I am surprised BMW didn't make some outrageously priced tool for it. I mean, rebuilding my DVanos was easier than this. LOL.
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X5 3.0 AUTO -2001 - 238,000 miles |
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#5
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30¢ steel zip tie is a better than new fix. At least 3 of our 8 dhc is held together this method. Never had one fail. Did have one fail in a different place but that one was replaced with one that was in need of the steel zip tie
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#6
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Yes,I recall you posting something about a zip tie. I believe there were images of the process. I don't recall where you pull the zip through though. Thanks
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X5 3.0 AUTO -2001 - 238,000 miles |
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#7
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Find my DIY. Search awr-fix in the title and find DHC repair I show step by step how to fix the most common break of the DHC.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#8
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Quote:
I used both my Foxwell and my PASoft BMW Scanner, going very carefully to track it down. The careful approach saved me from replacing/rebuilding the rear DLAs (that I was convinced were half failed), but not before I bought a perfectly good driver's door window switch cluster on eBay with no improvement. So in your case, it's not like all those things are flaky and fixed themselves all at the same time. There is probably one flaky problem somewhere that will come and go until you find it.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
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#9
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I did have to replace my door switch window panel because of man.defect. It had coroided the electronics, the replacement had the proper drip hole. Since then everything worked great. In fact, my key fob can still roll down all windows n open the sunroof. No sure if it could be coded to close them. I had this same feature with a 06-330ci vert. It was cool to have the top go down.
Keep you posted. Thanks,
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X5 3.0 AUTO -2001 - 238,000 miles |
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#10
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Key remote can be coded to close windows also. You can turn key in the door to close windows even when remote won't do it (default from factory)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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