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#1
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Installing new front drive shaft
Ideally it would be great to change out the Xcase drive splines as well, but changing a drive shaft is much easier. The shaft costed about $120 shipped. It was nice to see the drive shaft have balancing weights installed visually indicating it was balanced. I used moly based grease on the splines to help aid in sliding action of the two parts and to maintain rust prevention. The main concern would be excess play between the mating of the two parts. Changing the drive shaft is pretty simple. All it took was jacking up the car, removing the reinforcement plate, removing the 3 fasteners on guibo/3 fasteners on DS flange. Then to gain access using a screwdriver in between guibo and DS flange to "wedge" the DS back further towards Xcase. Once adequate clearance made, the guibo was able to be removed, thus, allowing enough clearance to fully remove driveshaft out.
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2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
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#2
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where did you order the driveshaft from? is it modified with the longer splines to fully engage the socket?
interestingly I believe this problem presents itself in different ways. My old Xer that my kid is driving now required the replacement around 175k but the only symptom was an audible clink when shifting into reverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDn1...ature=youtu.be some folks strip it out completely and are stopped dead in their tracks. i'm gonna have to do this one eventually on the NEW (2005 lol!) Xer.
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2005 X5 3.0i - 71k mi (9.2018) -> 81k (9.19) -> 100k 9.21 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SOLD : ( 2003 X5 3.0 - 177k mi (9.2018) -> 186k (9.19) -> 205k (9.21) SOLD : ( 1997 328is Coupe - Hellrot Red SOLD : ( 1988 528e w/ Bullseye s256 / MS2 Extra / GC Coilovers / Yukon Coils ~ 300+ HP |
#3
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Nice job on that, lots of people have had to loosen the front diff to fully pull the shaft, sounds like you’re one of the lucky ones
I have considered it a couple of times but sitting at 120k miles and mine not seeing too much rain, grime or full pedal launches... (don’t get me wrong, I do drive the sucker), it would be solely paranoid prevention... Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com |
#4
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yea I was definitely lucky. could have been a lot worse. I actually didn't have time to research or do this repair and was getting the oil pan gasket changed at the same time so I ended up getting my indy to do it. he ordered it from somewhere where they extend the driveshaft somehow so the splines go further into the socket.
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2005 X5 3.0i - 71k mi (9.2018) -> 81k (9.19) -> 100k 9.21 --------------------------------------------------------------------- SOLD : ( 2003 X5 3.0 - 177k mi (9.2018) -> 186k (9.19) -> 205k (9.21) SOLD : ( 1997 328is Coupe - Hellrot Red SOLD : ( 1988 528e w/ Bullseye s256 / MS2 Extra / GC Coilovers / Yukon Coils ~ 300+ HP |
#5
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That is definitely the way to do it, the guys that developed the extended shaft are geniuses for sure, which I guess makes BMW jack***es, or just too cheap to do it right the first time on a truck that cost what it did new... Nutty really.
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#6
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Quote:
It's actually fairly EASY to just check. I would remove and inspect the front driveshaft just to see the condition the splines are in.
__________________
2003 BMW X5 3.0i -- MT5, 3.64s final gears, H&R lowering springs, K-Mac bushing kit 2007 BMW X3 3.0Si -- MT6 |
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