not what did you did today? but screw-up

[workingonit]

I'm not the typical BMW X5 owner (it's a 2001, old but very new to me); a retired blue collar/semi-management-type, ex-dragracer, & lifelong shade-tree mechanic (i.e. workingonit, or a variation, has been my user name for as long as the web & car forums have been around. Therefore, I make my own parts if I can, and don't care (if they look "right", as long as they work).

I'm making the interior work for me...adding a larger custom cupholder for my 40 oz insulated water bottle, w/sweet tea inside (like Uncle Si from "Duck Dynasty" TV show, I never go without mine), an add-on USB charger for our phones, etc., and a mount for my 8" Lenovo GPS/Wi-Fi tablet (for google offline maps).

All this lead-up is for a simple question...might I have pierced something in the trans tunnel when I accidentally put a 1.5" screw into it? Trying to drill into the passenger seat rail, at the intersection of rail & tunnel, I missed the rail metal itself, put the screw thru a hole, and into the tunnel.

On my American cars (19 vehicles out of 25 I've owned, 6 being off-shore brands), I'd not have been concerned; but on this BMW (with unknowns abounding, tight mechanical clearances and hidden circuitry everywhere) is there a possibility I've pierced a wire or fuel or brake line with that screw?

Everything seems to work, there was no difficulty drilling it in (really zero resistance) and at 70 I'm not really wanting to crawl under (in my sandy driveway, in Texas heat and humid conditions, to look (probably parts to remove that are in the way) for a possible problem, if I don't have to.

Would somebody take an educated guess "what are the odds"? For some reason, I'm especially concerned about this, just one screw out of place.

[80stech]

I'd be surprised if that ends up causing a problem. I don't think that much out of the 1 1/2" would be left to stick out the other side anyway.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by 80stech

I'd be surprised if that ends up causing a problem. I don't think that much out of the 1 1/2" would be left to stick out the other side anyway.

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The fuel and brake and main power are below the left seat. I believe the fused lower power stuff is close to the door under the right seat.

The transmission control loom is close to that location but should not be within 3-6".

The right seat loom is close to that location but if all the features like seat heat and power control work you should be in the clear.

Went under the X5 today; the exhaust and metal heat shielding totally block access to the site in question, so up top, I checked some dimensions.

Using my finger as a measuring tool, I guesstimate that the 1.5" long TEK screw goes 1/4" thru the hole in the rail before it contacts the 1/8" thick bracket, then there's a finger width (5/16"), before contact with the carpet. That leaves only 1/2" to penetrate carpet+floor barrier+sheet metal. Not much screw left to penetrate any further, I would think.

All seat power is there, so I may have dodged a bullet. I chose to use a self-tapping screw, just so I could drill into the rail and stop before I over penetrated, but my poor close-up vision and using an impact driver combined to make me screw it up. Next time, more care will be exercised.
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[workingonit]

I hope you're right. But, you never know. I never pierced a wire, or a line by accident before, but I saw it happen.

Several of my racing team worked on everyone's cars, as a group or individually, while we gathered at the leader's garage. One guy put in a way too long screw into the door sill plate, and pierced the aluminum fuel line that had been secured too close to the rocker panel.

It shouldn't have been there anyway, and should've been made of steel or braided fuel hose; in that case, it was a good thing...he wouldn't have passed tech in the class he was racing in.

Anyway, I'll make an effort to eyeball the trans tunnel ASAP, just to be sure.

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[andrewwynn]

The fuel and brake and main power are below the left seat. I believe the fused lower power stuff is close to the door under the right seat.

The transmission control loom is close to that location but should not be within 3-6".

The right seat loom is close to that location but if all the features like seat heat and power control work you should be in the clear.

[Happy]

Not buying a darn oem car cover!!

[andrewwynn]

I put my new tires on the front. (since all new front suspension).

Went to put a better spare on the back until I do my test suspension (not about to put $600 of tires on suspension that will eat through tires in 1000 miles).

Discovered that my "redneck wear bars " were showing on my temporary tire so I pushed around my calendar to do my left rear today.







Can't share videos directly but I took a video showing the exact two joints killing my tires.

It was the exact joint I have described in the past (ball joint wheel side of rear control arm).

Also the "Rose bushing" aka rear ball joint was completely shot.

I could move each of those at least 2mm by hand. That works out to about 1.5-2° TOE change when braking.

The camber angle did close up a bit but it's non issue compared to toe angle for tire wear.

I have to change the right rear I'll start that tomorrow.

It's so nice having circular tires on the front, can't wait to get some on the rear as well.

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I put my new tires on the front. (since all new front suspension).

Went to put a better spare on the back until I do my test suspension (not about to put $600 of tires on suspension that will eat through tires in 1000 miles).

Discovered that my "redneck wear bars " were showing on my temporary tire so I pushed around my calendar to do my left rear today.







Can't share videos directly but I took a video showing the exact two joints killing my tires.

It was the exact joint I have described in the past (ball joint wheel side of rear control arm).

Also the "Rose bushing" aka rear ball joint was completely shot.

I could move each of those at least 2mm by hand. That works out to about 1.5-2° TOE change when braking.

The camber angle did close up a bit but it's non issue compared to toe angle for tire wear.

I have to change the right rear I'll start that tomorrow.

It's so nice having circular tires on the front, can't wait to get some on the rear as well.

Wow...

It's similar to me having all my tools out except you don't have any melted plastic cases

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[andrewwynn]

(Boot cut away for ease of removal and for clarity)

Note how much the gap changes. I could move the joint sideways 2-3mm!




Similarly with the control arm. This is the rear arm, not adjustable but when it goes, it allows the wheel to steer outwards every time you brake.

I was able to push the back of the brake disc about 2.5mm toward the centerline.

Approx 0.1" in 5" from center works out to 1.12°. That is on the order of ten times spec and the wrong wash
Way. That is just the control arm not the ball joint on top of that.

I can't wait to finally get those suckers all replaced, install my round tires and have a butter smooth riding car again.

[andrewwynn]

I tend to arrange tools so I can reach without getting up. Random access to any tool needed it looks a bit like a tool store barfed on the driveway.

I think it took 40 minutes to pick up when done. With a helper!