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#1
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120k Care Package
When I look around at potential replacements I find myself thinking "why bother?" The car doesn't smoke or leak at all, and shows no sign of transmission shunt. It is still a lovely cabin, and many of the newer cars I have been considering can't match it as a place to sit. A couple of years ago I added an M3 SMG steering wheel with paddles and the direct control makes it a very pleasing drive. To that end, I think I am going to do a mid-late life update: A full set of fluids, Oil, Coolant, and Transmission. I will also replace the noisy panoramic roof seal, and possibly install some more modern ICE if that's possible without spending enough to raise my wife's eyebrows. I'd appreciate any advice on any of the points of the refresh, but most crucially: Given the "for life" claims of BMW on the Coolant and Transmission fluid, is it possible my attempts to keep her healthy might introduce more issues than they seek to prevent? Any other mods that people think are well worth doing beyond the paddle shift? |
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#2
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THings might be different in UK, but does it have auto locking at 5mph (8kmh?) - Would you prefer to have it turned off ? Can be done with NCS.
I also programmed the 2 halogen lights closest to the center to turn on when high beams are on..big help when driving with high beams. Also with NCS |
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#3
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Granted, this reflects the 3.0 six cylinder engine and GM automatic for the 2002 model year:
On a regular basis: > Rotate tires, inspect pads & Rotors, CV boots, general look over every 5000 miles > Oil / Filter change every 8000 miles > Brake fluid flush every 30,000 miles > CV Boot replacement generally every 75,000 miles > Replace belts and clean CCV every 100,000 miles > Replace differential and transfer case fluid every 100,000 miles > Replace sparkplugs every 120,000 miles > Replace expansion tank, coolant and hoses every 150,000 miles > Replace brake pads every 163,000 miles (Akebono ceramics) > Replace rotors-once at 63,000 miles (316,000 miles on current Brembos) > Automatic transmission fluid – leave it alone in the GM 5L40-E My unplanned repairs have included: > Front axles at 60,000 miles (Prior owner didn't maintain CV boots) > FSR at 78,000 miles > Two sparkplug coils and accessory belt tensioner at 124,000 miles > Alternator at 126,000 miles > Front driveshaft and transfer case at 136,000 (used a salvage TC for cost savings) > FSR (again) at 159,000 miles > Thermostat and OFHG at 176,000 miles > Front tension struts and power steering pressure hose at 192,000 miles > Rear differential seal at 200,000 miles > Secondary air pump at 224,000 miles > Rear suspension bushings and upper control arms at 242,000 miles > Thermostat (again) at 245,000 miles - at least it was warranty this time > Steering column double U-Joint shaft at 245,000 miles > Valve cover gasket at 245,000 miles > Both fuel tank sending units, fuel pump and canister at 245,000 miles > Aux fan when the harness got chewed up in the mechanical fan and shorted out at 259,000 miles > Pre-cat O2 sensors at 260,400 miles > Water pump at 262,800 miles > DISA Valve and MAF at 264,000 miles > Thermostat (again) at 299,000 miles (don’t know what’s going on with these) > Driver door handle carrier again at 310,600 miles (thought they had these fixed finally) > Intermediate accessory belt pulley and oil level sensor at 310,600 miles > Valve cover (not just the gasket) and OFHG at 317,000 miles > All spark plug coils, MAF and fuel filter at 342,400 miles > Third FSR at 347,000 miles > Fourth FSR & harness connector at 357,000 miles – warranty this time > Engine mounts and rear driveshaft guibo at 357,000 miles > MAF, Thermostat (again!!!), All front CV boots 361,700 miles > Pre-cat O2 sensor (Bank #1) at 366,000 miles > Secondary air pump at 368,000 miles (prior was a used one off eBay) > Air injection check valve at 377,000 miles > Front brake tension struts at 378,000 miles All in all, except for the front driveshaft job that cost $4200, I have really been happy with the vehicle. It doesn't get babied, but I do monitor and maintain it. I think a lot of my good fortune is due to four things: I live in Texas with short winters so I don't have a lot of the CCV condensation problems, my daily commute is 60 miles so the engine oil always reaches full operating temperature, I run the "M" series viscosity engine oil from May through September when I my driving includes 3000 miles of towing a 1400 pound Waverunner and trailer, and I stick with Shell gasoline. I do believe I’ve figured out what goes on with the thermostat failures. Each one occurred within days of an extended idling period (3-4 hours) while commuting home at a crawl during very cold, icy weather. Under these conditions, every bit of engine heat was consumed trying to keep the windshield clear and the interior warm, so the engine thermostat would have been powered to stay closed or nearly closed most of the time. I suspect a higher current flow to the thermostat for that amount of time simply “burned it up”. 2002 X5 3.0 378,900 miles 2014 428i 68,000 miles 2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles 2001 325 sold at 66,000 miles 1970 Firebird Under restoration - IP gauges being refreshed with new clock and tachometer face reprinted with 6250 RPM redline ![]() |
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#4
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Though the N62 not as big a deal as M62, definitely time to change the chain tensioners.
A paid off car pays for its own fuel no matter the consumption rate. Do a little math. I tell people with older X5, program in $100/mo us for upkeep put it in a special savings account or shoebox but have that fund grow a bit because the occasional $700 fix
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#5
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Quote:
As it is I did an oil change tonight, coolant is ordered and sunroof seal is just about to get purchased. It seems like the official BMW-badged blue coolant is pretty difficult to get your hands on! I could only find gallon bottles available from a couple of sources, both in the US and with ridiculous delivery and customs costs. In the end I got six small bottles from a franchised BMW dealer in Germany. On we go. Might have a look for a head unit replacement tonight over a glass of wine. |
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#6
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120k Care Package
Chain tensioner is about the same as a spark plug. Don't even have to drain oil they are at the top of the oil zone.
I haven't done the N62 but I would expect it to be a bit of a hassle until you get the right combination of swivels and extension. Get a 19mm (3/4) medium depth socket unless you find a YouTube video that shows a deep well works. On the M62 the AC compressor is in the way of a deep well socket fitting. Won't surprise me a bit if N62 just as tricky and there are two That said they should probably be replaced at something like 100,000 initially and every 50-60,000 miles after. The N has a more robust chain guide system and two MUCH shorter/lighter chains so not as likey to blow into bits like M62 (I've done two M62 chain guide replace jobs). One before chain broke one after (6-8 bent valves to replace )
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 07-17-2020 at 11:44 PM. |
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