TORQUE on the 2 small Torx bolts on E53 Ball Joint

[harleyclassic2]

Does anyone know the torque on the 2 small torx bolts that hold the ball joint to the knuckle ? (Lower Control Arm fits in to the spindle on this ball joint)
Thank you

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by harleyclassic2

Does anyone know the torque on the 2 small torx bolts that hold the ball joint to the knuckle ? (Lower Control Arm fits in to the spindle on this ball joint)

Thank you

Do you know the bolt diameter?


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[wpoll]

60Nm, and use new bolts.

From here: -

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...mounts/4BKfpq0

[andrewwynn]

10.9 M10-1.5x20 standard torque is 67 N·m. Unless the fastener is damaged it can be reused. BMW for CYA reasons replaces every but/bolt in suspension repairs even the strut support bolts that are like 16mm diameter.

(A 16 mm hardened bolt standard torque is over 200 ft·lb (290 N·m), with 10T clamping force, I don't think spec is over that so the bolt and nuts can clearly be reused.

[80stech]

I would just use a bit of loctite and not worry too much about the torque. More important would be that you still have a good fit of the ball-joint in the knuckle.

[harleyclassic2]

Thank you.

I had a hell of a time prying off the control arm ball joint off the knuckle - as many have (used a grinder)
I have smeared thin layer of anti-seize on the ball joint and bolts. Is that detrimental somehow ?
( Even in heavy machinery - Nuts/bolts swim in oil)

[andrewwynn]

Lubricated torque is less. BMW specs 90% advised torque so I would torque to 45 N·m = 33 ft·lb if the bolt / nut are oily to achieve the same clamping force spec'd.

Making a click sound with your tongue is not adviced for estimated torque, I would definitely use a torque wrench or in my case I use a digital torque adapter. It really only has to be ballpark. If 60 N·m gets you 6750 # clamping force X2 bolts = 13500#, so If you guess and get within 80% that is still a substantial 10800#, however if like most people "nice and snug" may only achieve 30%, I definitely recommend using a torque wrench.

As far as removal, I'm a fan of the pre-load and vibration method.

Get a pickle fork or prybar pressing the joint apart but with a flex on the handle not just wedged in and then hit the longer part eg control arm sideways to make it "ring" like a tuning fork. It'll vibrate a few hundred times per whack. Put some kroll or liquid wrench in there and be a little patient. 10-15 hits not even that hard usually is enough takes just a couple minutes.

I have to do my control arms. I'll try to get a video including with any luck a slow motion that shows the ringing.

[harleyclassic2]

"Clicking sound with Tongue" LMAO...guys in the Bronx after a few drinks..

Thanks for the tip, I didn't know about the 80-90% advised torque if fastener is lubricated with anti-seize.