DIY N62 Engine Mounts (The "Easy" Way)

[crystalworks]

First, thanks to admranger and X5only for their takes on this process, available in this thread. Overboost as well with the idea to employ the Harbor Freight support bar.
All helped guide me to this method, and I'm sure saved countless hours of struggle. I am writing this in a step x step manner, probably over illustrated and explained for most of the vets on here. But I took a few pics and figured I'd make this anyway.

Usual disclaimers apply here, do this at your own risk. Yada yada. This is working under your truck while suspending your engine/subframe. Use reasonable caution and common sense.

My truck (2006 LHD US 4.8is) vibrated at idle pretty heavily, by my standards, and caused a rattle in the steering wheel. Turning the AC on (bumping the RPMs) would alleviate it. After the experience with our E61 with the same symptoms and going to buttery smooth after engine and transfer case mounts, I wanted to change Red's mounts as well. I do want to the trans mount too, but will get to that later. Here is what an old one looked like vs. the new one. Neither side looked overly worn and neither was leaking oil (are these fluid filled?) but it is shorter than the new one. Corteco brand FWIW. Picture below not taken perfectly clocked but you'll get the idea.







This took my wife, yes, you read that correctly, and I about 4 hours to do working leisurely. This is not hard at all and is about the same process I used on our E61 wagon to replace its motor mounts. It's not a hard process but does require a Harbor Freight engine cross bar to be most effective. I suppose you could do this with multiple jacks but you’d really be limiting your work area.

The reason we are doing it this way is because reaching the E12 torx and 16mm nut from the top is madness. It's a recipe for rounding/stripping the heads. I briefly tried starting this way the day before and moved on to other projects with the truck. This method allows both axles, control arms, the front driveshaft, and all other components to remain in place. I am typing this from memory so bear with me if there are some slight mistakes in bolt sizes or something. You will need an alignment after doing this, but I think that is the same for all methods of N62 mount replacement.



Tools you need:

1. Pry bar(s) – multiple of differing sizes is nice to manipulate the subframe.
2. E12, E14, and E18 external torx sockets
3. 8mm, 10mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm and 19mm sockets (I used ratcheting wrenches as well in some of these sizes)
4. Harbor Freight top engine support
5. 2 jack stands of reasonable quality and load rating
6. Trim pry tool
7. Hydraulic jack of sufficient lift height and rating for an X5
8. Impact driver - nice but not required (I used one)

Procedure:

1. Loosen lug bolts on front wheels

2. Remove the engine sound insulation/beauty cover.

3. Jack up the front end, place the vehicle securely on jack stands. Now give the truck a decent push from the side. If it moves re-secure the way the jack stands are placed. You are going to be under the truck, you don’t want it falling. Do not place them on the back of the subframe obviously. You are wanting to drop that. After you’re satisfied with the stability of the truck, remove the front wheels.

4. Remove the front plastic splash shield with a bunch of 8mm and 10mm screws/bolts.

5. Remove the stiffening plate by using a 16mm box end wrench (or ratcheting in my case) on the nuts on top and 16mm socket on the bolt heads on bottom of the plate. Some people find this tricky but I’ve had this thing off and on so many times it’s a 10 minute job.

6. Now, unplug and then unclip the wires going to both front level sensors. The wires are not long enough to drop with the subframe as I almost found out the hard way.



7. Remove the 2 bolts/nuts that secure the steering rack to the subframe. The bolts are E14 and the nuts on top are 18mm. I used a ratcheting wrench on the nut. “Why do this you ask?” Well. Again, learning the hard way, at first I did not do this. When I lowered the subframe it was trying to pull the steering linkage out of the top seal where it connects to the rack and sprung a pretty gnarly leak. Once I realized why the truck was now hemorrhaging steering fluid I raised the subframe and loosed the rack. Fortunately when raised back up and rack loosened I had no more leak so I think I avoided a torn seal or needing to pull the rack. This happens because we are lowering the frame a long way to gain EASY access to the 3 bolts and clearance for getting the mounts out of their cups. Alternatively, I suppose you could undo the steering linkage but I didn’t want to worry about things getting misaligned or reaching into the area to undo it. Easier to get the 2 fasteners for the rack up front.



8. Install the Harbor Freight engine bar up top and take the weight off the subframe. I added painters tape along the fender channel just for added precaution, but the bar appears to have plenty of cushion to avoid any damage.



9. Loosen the right hand side subframe bolts. There are (3) E18 bolts. Take them out a good 5 turns. This will give you added lowering clearance on the left hand side. You can always back them out a little more should you need more clearance while trying to remove the left hand side mount.

10. Completely remove the (3) E18 bolts securing the left hand side of the subframe. There is no danger of it falling down while it’s attached to the suspension and engine. The engine is being supported by the Harbor Freight bar up top.



11. If you are feeling squirrely now about lowering the engine with just the half-in 3 bolts on the right hand side of the subframe you can place a safety jack under it. I did not. Lower the engine with the engine cross bar up top.
Keep lowering the engine/subframe until you can see the (2) E12 bolts that secure the mount to the subframe and the 16mm nut that secures the engine to the mount and have room to access them.

12. Remove the 16mm nut holding the engine to the mount. Once removed the subframe may want to drop further so be prepared and have a jack under it at this point just in case.

13. With the 16mm out, raise the engine back up using the Harbor Freight engine bar up top. Seeing a pattern here? You’ll be raising and lowering the engine more than a few times. Keep taking it way up so you have plenty of clearance between the exhaust manifold and the mount. This gives you easy access to the (2) E12 bolts and ease of egress for the mount.

14. Remove the old mount and plop in the new one. A pry bar can gain you that extra quarter inch or so needed to get the mount out/in. Loosely install the (2) E12 bolts in the new mount. You want a little bit of wiggle room when setting the motor back down onto the subframe/mounts.



15. Use a combination of lowering the engine back down from above and raising the subframe from below with a jack until the mount stud is almost touching the engine support arm that the 16mm nut secures. You need to line this stud up with the hole in the support arm so use a pry bar to manipulate the subframe or move the new mount around as it is loose in its cup. I was able to do this by myself on both sides but having a helper might be easier.

16. Once the mounting hole aligns with the stud from the engine, lower the engine down until you again have easy access to all 3 fasteners. Installing the 2 E12 first is easier as you can still raise the engine a little to give you clearance for your E12 socket and ratchet. I could not find the torque values for the E12’s in my Bentley or online. It didn’t take too much to release them so use your best judgment. Once the E12’s are in you can lower the engine fully onto the mount and install the 16mm nut. Torque 16mm nut to 41 ft-lbs.

17. Now raise the engine with the subframe using a jack and/or the engine support bar. You want to get it up onto the dowel guide on the frame and hand thread the E18 bolts back in. I gave mine a clean with the wire brush and some brake clean, followed by a light antiseize just for good measure. You want to thread them back in so that the subframe is loose like on the right hand side.

18. Now you can remove the 3 E18 completely on the right hand side and repeat the process you followed with the left hand side to remove the E12 bolts and 16mm nut to free the engine mount. So repeat steps 10-17 for the right hand side mount. There is nothing different between the two sides. The passenger side has more room as well so it’s easier to work (no steering linkage or driveshaft). Here's a shot of the right hand side with the new mount in.



19. Now you’ve got your new mounts in and the subframe can be lifted all the way up and the E18 bolts fully torqued to 74ft-lbs.

20. Now install the (2) E14 bolts and (2) 18mm nuts that secure the steering rack to the subframe. Torque them to 37ft-lbs + 90 degrees. BMW calls for replacement bolts/nuts.

21. Reinstall the clips and plugs for both of the ride height level sensors.

22. Reinstall the wheels, raise the truck with a jack, remove the jack stands, and lower the truck onto ramps. Torque front wheels to your chosen spec. I use 100ft-lbs personally.

23. Reinstall the chassis stiffening plate with your choice of reusing the old bolts or purchasing new ones. BMW recommends new fasteners. They also recommend to torque with the vehicle on the ground, hence the ramps in the previous step. Torque to 41ft-lbs + 90 degree angle. If reusing the bolts, you may want to do a smaller angle of around 45 degrees.

24. Reinstall the front plastic splash shield.

25. Remove the Harbor Freight engine support bar and reinstall your acoustic/beauty cover on the engine.

26. You’re done. Get the truck aligned and enjoy saving around $600 changing the mounts yourself.

[Clockwork]

Ah-maze-balls.
Sensational write-up.
Thank you so very much. This kind of pictorial and written description will be extremely helpful to future dooers.
Glad to hear the wife likes wrenching a bit too.
Keep up the great work.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[guntherrex]

thanks for the write-up!

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by Clockwork

Ah-maze-balls.
Sensational write-up.
Thank you so very much. This kind of pictorial and written description will be extremely helpful to future dooers.
Glad to hear the wife likes wrenching a bit too.
Keep up the great work.

Originally Posted by guntherrex

thanks for the write-up!

No worries gents. I was hesitant to do this at first but the job is actually one of the simpler ones on the E53. Wanted to help give others the confidence to get this one done.

One of my next tasks is the alternator housing gasket as preventative maintenance. I'm not looking forward to that one at all.

Oh, and "likes" is a strong word for how the wife feels about wrenching. She loves to clean the interior and parts but does not really enjoy the more greasy work. Only reason she helped was because the work involved me being under the suspended engine. She wanted to be present to watch the carnage should the support bar give out.

[Clockwork]

That's a good wife.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[stiubhartach]

Thanks for an excellent photo write up!

[BigBody]

Crystalworks, thank you for the guide. I appreciate your time and effort in putting it together. I just finished this job thanks to your help.

I have a question regarding the alignment. Is it necessary? My car is driving perfectly, and it seems as the bolts that go into the rack have almost zero play inside their mounting holes. Many thanks again.

[TriX5]

Nice work and great write up!

I would think there would be some stress on the exhaust hangers? Did you consider loosening them as well?

Funny your wife wanted to witness you crawling under a suspended engine.... If I did that the job would be suspended....indefinitely! At any rate, I'd opt for a jack stand under either side of the sub-frame. Those engine support bars make me nervous.

[BigBody]

Originally Posted by TriX5

Nice work and great write up!

I would think there would be some stress on the exhaust hangers? Did you consider loosening them as well?

Funny your wife wanted to witness you crawling under a suspended engine.... If I did that the job would be suspended....indefinitely! At any rate, I'd opt for a jack stand under either side of the sub-frame. Those engine support bars make me nervous.

For the part where the engine is suspended, i was able to do the job without going under the subframe. You can do it from the sides, as i did. I also had my jack under the side of the subframe i was working on. It can be done (relatively) safely.

I did not have as easy as a time removing the bolts as crystal works described. Its tight, but doable. I was also solo, but a second pair of hands is always a big help.

I really dont understand how this job is possible at all without dropping the subframe; at least on the N62. There is barely space to move the mounts out/in.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by BigBody

Crystalworks, thank you for the guide. I appreciate your time and effort in putting it together. I just finished this job thanks to your help.

I have a question regarding the alignment. Is it necessary? My car is driving perfectly, and it seems as the bolts that go into the rack have almost zero play inside their mounting holes. Many thanks again.

No problem. Glad it helped. Not strictly necessary to align it... but at the cost of tires I thought it a worthy expenditure. I have lifetime alignments (~$220 if memory serves) on Red anyway through Firestone. They aren't the best, but manage to get it into specs and my tire wear has been great.

I agree. Without dropping the subframe... job is not worth tackling for the headache you'd endure IMO.

Originally Posted by TriX5

Nice work and great write up!

I would think there would be some stress on the exhaust hangers? Did you consider loosening them as well?

Funny your wife wanted to witness you crawling under a suspended engine.... If I did that the job would be suspended....indefinitely! At any rate, I'd opt for a jack stand under either side of the sub-frame. Those engine support bars make me nervous.

Thanks. Yeah, could be some stress on the hangers. I find they are pretty robust and have never loosened them when raising/lowering the engine. Something to think about though.

Hah! The wife knows I am safe when I do things. She's seen it enough times to not be nervous anymore, though does still come check on me if she hears a tool drop or other loud noise.

The subframe is still connected to the suspension too so it can't drop too far.