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#1
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getting a second (and third) remote entry solution
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Now, if I bump/crush/demolish my original remote diamond key (which I eventually have done to all my plastic remotes), I can still gain entry without using the physical lock on the door. When I put a new rechargeable battery into my original key, I severed a wire trace inside...I fear that it'll break loose again, so I wanted a backup remote on me at all times. I've never bent/broken/lost any of my physical keys in 55 years, so that wasn't a concern. This should gain me some time to actually order a true BMW NA diamond key, but I've got a noisy clutch fan that worries me (though the viscous clutch feels good & just tight enough, I don't want blades coming loose just now), so an electric fan conversion is my first priority. I have two trucks with clutch fans ('04 Chevy 2500HD with 135k miles, and a '98 GMC with 185K miles), but they're still in great shape...but I worry about the X5. I have previously added electric fans on most of my previous 20+ vehicles, either as primary or secondary cooling fans, auxiliary fans for a dedicated transmission cooler, or in the case of my now traded (for the X5) '66 Chevelle, all three types. I'll probably do the fan conversion soon.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
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#2
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Good idea and info. I also broke my fob trying to replace the Panasonic battery, desoldered something...
Mind sharing where you are finding them that cheap? They seem to be just the shell no PCB, or at around $30 a piece on eBay.... Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk
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Mike - Greater Seattle, WA, USA 2002 E53 X5 4.4i Sport Pkg Black (daily & tow vehicle) 2003 E53 X5 4.6is Estoril Blue (to replace 4.4i soon) 2002 E53 X5 4.4i Sport Pkg Silver [sold] 2001 E46 325Ci Hardtop 5MT Topaz Blue [sold] + Toyota track/autox/rally cars: MR2 (x2), Celica AllTrac Turbo (x3) |
#3
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raised price, shipping took a week, but still a good deal
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/19313897449...g:nzcAAOSweRpd
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
#4
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Glad to see the plan is working for you.
So that solution of buying two new cheap Chinese eBay fobs is the newer substitute for my older solution of buying old used Genuine BMW diamond keys on eBay for about the same. I think for the purposes of the plan, the two are equivalent. They solve the problem of keyless entry, and that is it. But unlike the used genuine key solution, you could have the key blades cut to match your mechanical locks in the driver's door, ignition, and glove box. ... But there is virtually no way that they will ever be able to solve the EWS problem to allow you to start the engine. The eBay seller saying to take it to a locksmith for that is not really practical. I won't say it is impossible, but probably not cost effective to work around the BMW EWS system. That original diamond key you already have will still solve that EWS problem for you, even if the keyless entry no longer works on it. So something to consider is (first don't lose it or consider it worthless even if it falls apart) to keep it in the car permanently for the sole purpose of keeping EWS happy. I don't know how close it has to be to the ignition lock clinder, but you could consider installing it on the inside of the steering column panels in there. That would effectively bypass the EWS system, and you could use as many $10 keys as you want, having the blades cut, etc. The EWS system is not confused by seeing non-conforming EWS chips in addition to a valid one. That's how my solution works = new Genuine BMW valet key (with valid BMW-programmed EWS chip) + old Genuine BMW diamond key (fob with blade cut off, with invalid BMW EWS chip for a completely different BMW). When running my PASoft scanning software, I'd see EWS warnings showing an invalid chip present, so it knows it's there, but will not stop it from allowing the engine to start, as long as a valid one is there as well. I don't know whether the EWS interrogation requires the fob to be powered with a battery. So if your battery (the rechargeable Panasonic 3V) battery in the genuine diamond key is dead or the circuit has broken, but the EWS is intact, it might or might not work. The cheaper Genuine BMW valet keys do not have any battery; the interrogating signal coming from the antenna surrounding the ignition cylinder also instantly powers the circuit so it can receive and respond to the coded signal. So that shows it is possible, but I'm not completely sure yet whether the EWS in a diamond key has the same capability to work without a battery.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 Last edited by oldskewel; 06-29-2021 at 02:40 PM. |
#5
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Hey Oldskewel, Is there a convenient way to charge key fobs outside of the car?
I like the idea of used genuine key fobs as extra remotes, but I remember reading that if they are hanging on a key chain they aren't close enough (or are not positioned correctly) to be charged by the induction charging of the ignition. I have heard that certain phone and toothbrush chargers can charge our fobs, but haven't see a definitive solution. |
#6
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If I may answer this question, this is what I bought, and it works.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
#7
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Thanks for this... The two Ebay remotes you bought have non-rechargeable batteries. Any idea how long they might last? A year or more ? |
#8
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Assuming the batteries were freshly installed prior to shipping (in China, before shipping to NJ, or installed in New Jersey??) probably <3 years. I've had seldom-used 3V lithium batteries last up to six years, but on remotes used daily, 2-2.5 years. In any case, I've cut my original key open before...these should be much the same. At $10 apiece, I'll not worry about damaging them, so much.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
#9
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https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...r-options.html Specifically on the recharging ... Prior to doing the surgery, my solution was to masking tape all 4 of my fobs (one original diamond key in the ignition, plus the 3x eBay fobs) together, with the diamond key in, and the other fobs close enough to optimal position to take in the charge. I'd put them in the ignition, with the key to ACC, with the car on a battery charger so it would not run down, and overnight the fobs would be well charged. I found I could easily go a year or more before I needed to repeat that. But when I had things opened up, I thought I'd try to experimentally verify which of the various chargers would actually work, of course wanting to use a charger I already had. Post #14 in that thread: https://xoutpost.com/1183412-post14.html Post #19 https://xoutpost.com/1183483-post19.html I measured the fob battery voltage in the presence of my toothbrush charger (failed to charge), and then my son's iPhone charger, which worked perfectly, steadily ticking up at about a mV per minute, leading to an end to the experiment. So that's what I do now to keep them maintained without needing to do the more manual solution above. As said there, the iPhone charger is a Belkin F7U027 https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Boost-...075M59ZB7?th=1 https://www.belkin.com/us/support-ar...icleNum=274455 with some details in there about the green light on the charging pad. If not measuring the fob battery voltage, I would think it was not working, based on the green LED. BTW, @workingonit had asked me earlier about where these fobs were on eBay. From a quick look, I could no longer find used Genuine BMW fobs on there, which were plentiful back in 2014 when I got mine. I can see that these NEW non-OE ones are so cheap, do the job, and have the convenience of replaceable batteries, so maybe that led to the old ones going away. But the BMW ones are pretty amazingly built on the inside, so I'm happy I got mine when I did.
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2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 |
#10
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BUT... the diamond key EWS transponder is built on the same PCB as the rest of the key-less entry circuit and relies on some of the components on that PCB (antenna coil, rectifier, capacitor, transponder I.C. etc.) so any damage to the PCB may result in a non-working EWS transponder. Other transponder solutions (as used in some BMWs, V.W.s etc.) are based on a self contained transponders I.C. or micro-device and can be moved from key to key.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
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