Recovering from bore wash. Experiences, solutions, advice needed..

[80stech]

What brand of filter/regulator was it?

[ahlem]

After you put a couple tablespoons of 30 weight into each cylinder, hand rotate the engine to bottom out each cylinder one at a time and with a Harbor Freight air nozzle with the long skinny extensions (and don't use any tips that will fall off) stick it down the spark plug hole and hit it with a good shot of compressed air. That will spread oil all over the inside of the cylinder and maybe even use a rag to keep from oiling everything on the outside of the cylinder. This method is way easier than shaking the motor around in all directions like some other small engine versions of oiling the cylinder walls.

[nick325xit 5spd]

Originally Posted by turquise1

I have not done anything other than trying to start the engine though and that is how too many people recover their cars from bore wash. Everytime I tried to start the engine, there was a bit oil in there and I measured the compression quickly and there was 30 psi compression in there then too.

Is there another way to start a car after a borewash? When I do a quick web search I come across many examples of 'no compression' (different car brands and also E46s for a different reason) after bore wash and most of them seemed to have recovered from it by consistent cranking with oil in sp holes.

I have 2 different borescopes. What would a gouged chamber look like?

Thanks,

Ozzie

You'll see vertical scratches on the cylinder walls. If they are there, the block is basically done. (I mean, you could rebuild it, but who rebuilds a 4.4?)

[turquise1]

Originally Posted by 80stech

What brand of filter/regulator was it?

It was the original BMW brand.


Thanks,


Ozzie

[turquise1]

Originally Posted by ahlem

After you put a couple tablespoons of 30 weight into each cylinder, hand rotate the engine to bottom out each cylinder one at a time and with a Harbor Freight air nozzle with the long skinny extensions (and don't use any tips that will fall off) stick it down the spark plug hole and hit it with a good shot of compressed air. That will spread oil all over the inside of the cylinder and maybe even use a rag to keep from oiling everything on the outside of the cylinder. This method is way easier than shaking the motor around in all directions like some other small engine versions of oiling the cylinder walls.

Will try. What would be the cranking / starting process? How long for each crank and delay to cool down the starter? I am trying right now with a battery booster and that gives me around 15 tries of 5 secs. Would getting a jump from another car help? I am reading heat would also have an effect on start because of expansion of metals.


Also, I am using a starting fluid not to flood the engine again. Any keys on how much of it to use each time?


Thanks,


Ozzie

[nick325xit 5spd]

Originally Posted by turquise1

Will try. What would be the cranking / starting process? How long for each crank and delay to cool down the starter? I am trying right now with a battery booster and that gives me around 15 tries of 5 secs. Would getting a jump from another car help? I am reading heat would also have an effect on start because of expansion of metals.


Also, I am using a starting fluid not to flood the engine again. Any keys on how much of it to use each time?


Thanks,


Ozzie

Scope the bores before you do anything else at all.

[txyaloo]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

You can't clear a fuel injected engine like a carb engine. I've cleared plenty of carb flooded engines. Four stroke to two stroke engines can be cleared by WOT. It's adding air to the extra fuel. FI is different. Only cranking or forced air into the engine can clear it. The best way to clear flooded fuel is to remove the plugs and crank it. Removing the plugs works best on two stroke engines.

This isn't entirely accurate. Ford, GM, and other manufacturers have a clear flood mode built into their ECMs even back into the late 80s. Hold the pedal down to WOT and the computer disables the injectors allowing you to clear the cylinders.

BMW didn't see the need to include this in the e-series DME.

[turquise1]

Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd

Scope the bores before you do anything else at all.

I will do that for sure but even if I see some scratches etc. I am not going to give up on an engine that quickly. For now, I find it hard to believe a fuel wash could destroy an entire engine by trying to start it multiple times.

And yes, I would look into rebuilding it if it's dead. I rebuilt its transmission recently and changed the timing chain guides etc as well.

Thanks,

Ozzie

[nick325xit 5spd]

Originally Posted by turquise1

I will do that for sure but even if I see some scratches etc. I am not going to give up on an engine that quickly. For now, I find it hard to believe a fuel wash could destroy an entire engine by trying to start it multiple times.

And yes, I would look into rebuilding it if it's dead. I rebuilt its transmission recently and changed the timing chain guides etc as well.

Thanks,

Ozzie

Fuel wash can easily trash an engine. You poured enough fuel in that it backfired hard enough to blow up the intake.

And almost no one rebuilds these motors because you can get used ones for a tiny fraction of the cost of even a DIY rebuild.

[nick325xit 5spd]

Honestly, the last ditch thing that I would do is probably pour a LOT of marvel mystery oil or a similar snake oil product in the cylinders and let it sit there for a while. Put enough in there that at TDC, the cylinder is totally full. Turn the engine over BY HAND periodically for a day or so to really let that soak in. Try to let it sit at a different piston's TDC every time you leave it. Vacuum out the excess and then crank it for a while with the spark plugs REMOVED, before you put the plugs in and try to get it going.