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#1
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Front Left Brake Line Replacement
I had a hard job to undo the brake hose off the brake line. It took me all day to undo the nut, only did I manage to break off the nut from the line. Now I have to replace or re-flare the end. I don't want to flare the line while attached, it can easily go wrong. Can someone please show me the correct way to get this line out so that I can either replace it or re-flare the end. The line sheared off just under the nut, so hopefully it won't be too short. The other end is obviously connected to the ABS module. PN 34326755499, for 2004 X5, 3.0i. Thanks, |
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#2
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Just replace the line with new line from the ABS to the point you broke. Lots of posts on DIY
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![]() 2005 X5 4.8IS The Blue ones are always FASTER.... Current Garage: 2005 X5 4.8is 2002 M5 TiSilver 2003 525iT 1998 528i Former Garage Stable Highlights 2004 325XiT Sport 1973 De Tomaso Pantera, L Model 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp Alpine White 1970 Dodge Challenger T/A 4 sp GoManGo Green 1971 Dart Sport, “Dart Light” package 1969 Road Runner 383 1968 Ply Barracuda 340S FB Sea-foam Green |
#3
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If you are doing anything with brake lines, you might check the two brake lines that run from the front to the back under the plastic cladding (near the fuel filter btw) under the driver's side front door. This is a common failure point.
Also take a flashlight and follow the brake lines in between rear wheels..another common failure point. The fix requires a roll of Nickel- Copper (Ni-Copp) tubing 3/16 diameter, a pack of 10 or so bubble flares, and a good (not cheap) flaring tool that makes bubble flares..a tube cutting tool and a tube bender are nice-to-haves. making good bubble flares on the steel lines that are in the car is a challenge...much easier on Ni-Copp lines. you should just run a new Ni-Copp line from the ABS manifold to the front brake connection. the toughest part might be bleeding the system afterwards...fronts are pretty easy, but the rears require ABS cycle bleeding with an advanced scan tool. |
#4
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Thanks guys. I was hoping to get some leads on step by step "how to"s, or some videos. There are a lot of random videos. I have lots of rust on connections, I don't want to go trial & error route, leading to some unwanted damaging disassemblies. Anything specific would be much appreciated.
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#5
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Get a set of Vice Grips 7LW.
These are the greatest invention for working on slightly rusted brake lines. We've re-plumbed several e30's when upgrading to stainless steel and really wanted to avoid the problem you are having. If your lines are really rusty you need to replace but otherwise use the 7LW.
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2001 x5 3.0 (sold with broken motor), 1990 e30 M3, 1991 318is, 2002 325i, 2008 335i Dinan stage 3 6 speed, |
#6
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An do what exactly ?
OP has snapped a brake line near the flare fitting |
#7
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Quote:
2) To assist in removing the remainder of this brake line. OP: I recommend buying a pre-flared line slightly longer than the OE version. NiCopp or coated from the parts store are pretty easy to work with. You can make a loop or do a couple extra bends to take up excess.
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2011 M3 2006 Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison 2004 X5 3.0i 6MT 1995 M3 S50B32 1990 325is 1989 M3 S54B32 Hers: 1989 325iX 1996 911 Turbo ![]() |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Info in brake lines running to the rear, incl tool for buble flare is in that DIY thread that I posted in Oct. 2019...
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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