2002 X5 electrical issues

FlatPat · #1 03-22-2022, 01:38 PM

I tried searching but didn't find much for all the symptoms. I bought a 2002 X5 3.0 at auction. Rebuilt the VANOS and DISA, runs great. I am having electrical issues, the hazard lights, heated seats, door locks, adjustable steering column are all not working. It also doesn't go to sleep. The gear shift indicator lights stays on all the time. I have checked and changed fuses. It does have an aftermarket stereo and I read on a post this can cause issues. Is there something I should be looking for in the wiring?

Update, got the hazards and locks working. Thanks for the help. Heated seats are still not working, no lights or anything when pushing the buttons. Rear tail gate button still works next to them. Steering adjustment still not working.

Checking the wiring in the console/dash and noticed these two connectors not connected. Any idea what these in the linked pictures are for and if they should be connected?

https://ibb.co/Mg4ptXn

https://ibb.co/GMCNKkZ

https://ibb.co/ggCBvB1

Thanks

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X5chemist · #2 03-22-2022, 02:11 PM

Welcome to the site. Mine has the same sleep problem. I've narrowed it down to a few remaining options.

First, do a voltage drop across all the fuses. Find out which ones have voltage drop after 16 minutes. Do a complete amp draw at the battery too. Electrical issues can be related or separate. Do you have a BMW scanner available? GMIII modules are know to go bad over time.

StephenVA · #3 03-22-2022, 02:11 PM

BMW Vehicle Parasitic Draw Testing
When your car battery goes dead overnight, usually either the battery is at the end of its life span, or you left something on, such as a light. Occasionally something is drawing power that's not of your doing. This is a parasitic draw, and it can cause the same result as leaving the headlights on: a dead battery in the morning.

1. Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. The meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.
3. Attach a multimeter (set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeter’s instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".
4. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings) last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.
6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
8. Repeat steps 1 & 2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you the exact numbers.
BMW Battery Draw Testing
If your Shifter light is on, the car is definitely staying awake.
Your Battery will go down within days. If the light is not on you can have a parasitic draw, while the car is in sleep mode. The only difference, is the second draw is from a module which can’t wake the system (not mission critical), and it will take a lot longer to discharge the battery.
Shifter light NOT on: (battery fully charged)
Find the ground cable on the battery, but do not disconnect. (the cable end connected to the body not the battery, is easier to handle.)
Connect the Positive lead from the “Fluke” to the body of the car (good ground)
Connect the Negative lead to the (brown) ground cable (you can puncture it)
Make sure it’s easy to disconnect the (brown) cable from the body, but don’t take it off yet.
Open the glove box and remove and disable the switch so the light will not turn on, locate the fuse box.
Start the car and run at idle, turn EVERYTHING on, and activate all the components (sunroof, windows, a/c, lights …..) run 5 min.
turn the car off and remove the key. Open all doors and trunk, and with a screw driver,
close the door locks so the system thinks all doors and the trunk is closed.
Now lock the vehicle with the remote.
The “Fluke” must be set up to “A” not “mA” otherwise you will blow the
fuse in the meter. Remove the nut from the ground cable and remove the cable from the stud. You meter will indicate around (300mA).
Let the car go to sleep. (16 min) minimum, if this is not happening start over.
After the sleep mode is on the draw should not be more then 50mA, if it’s more go to the glove box and start pulling fuses one by one and check the draw after each one, but do NOT re-install the fuse. Pull the fuse and leave it out
There are some fuses under the right cover in the trunk. If you pull a fuse and car wakes up start over (next time ignore this fuse). If you pull a fuse and the draw drops to around 50mA, read the label on the fuse, you will know which circuit is faulty.
Relay locked on - test
Take out your infrared temp gun and measure each relay. The one that is hotter is "on". Simple!

Effduration · #4 03-23-2022, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlatPat

...I bought a 2002 X5 3.0 at auction.....I am having electrical issues, the hazard lights, heated seats, door locks, adjustable steering column are all not working. It also doesnt go to sleep. The gear shift indicator lights stays on all the time. I have checked and changed fuses. It does have an aftermarket stereo and I read on a post this can cause issues. Is there something I should be looking for in the wiring?

I have an aftermarket stereo in my X5 no problems

You may have one big issue causing all these symptoms or maybe its a couple of things.

Just to rule it out, pull the hazard /central lock switch out of the center console and see if its broken..Its a switch with a plastic housing and the bottom often breaks, rendering the switch inop... If it IS broken, you can repair it with superglue.

FlatPat · #5 03-24-2022, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Effduration

I have an aftermarket stereo in my X5 no problems

You may have one big issue causing all these symptoms or maybe its a couple of things.

Just to rule it out, pull the hazard /central lock switch out of the center console and see if its broken..Its a switch with a plastic housing and the bottom often breaks, rendering the switch inop... If it IS broken, you can repair it with superglue.

I got the hazard / central lock switch out and it is broken as you described. I can hold it together and the hazards work but not the locks. I was going to try and glue but there is a whole side of the plastic missing so going to get another one.

Update, said it doesn't hurt to try and glue to back together. Used a little electrical tape with glue and it is holding. Popped it back in and the hazards and locks are working.

Thanks

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