Another Alternator

[carbob]

Starting a new thread from my recent post “Thermostat”

After replacing the thermostat, immediately upon starting the engine, the battery icon stayed illuminated and I measured 11.8v, so it appears it is not charging. In retrospect, I have seen some dimming of dash lights the last few weeks, but I always use a trickle charge so I may have prolonged the inevitable but also saved myself from being stranded somewhere. My alternator is not noisy. I looked at some of the posts on water cooled alternators and voltage regulators and checked some of the usual online parts outlets. Some folks have had some issues like a bad alternator right out of the box. Appears all that is available now are remanufactured alternators, some require a core sent back, but the surprising part is the price spread- $300-$1000. Looks straightforward to replace, not sure it’s worth it to mess with just changing the voltage regulator given the mileage I have.

[Homerlovesbeer]

Say what!?

No new replacement alternator available, only used refurbished which costs how much?

What the?

[bmw540san]

Did you carefully inspect the wirring for any signs of damage, loose connections etc...?

If everything checks out and you're sure it's the alternator, I'd go with FCP for little more money and got lifetime warranty:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ch-oem-al0734x

Or less money and 2 year warranty:

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bosch...yABEgLVpfD_BwE

Also, FCP lists this one as new but fitment only to Land Rover which is odd as it should be the same part:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/rov...000040#fitment

This is global economy and parts quality is not what it use to be overall, but OEM Bosch still seems to be fairly decent quality.

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by bmw540san

......... I'd go with FCP for little more money and got lifetime warranty:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ch-oem-al0734x

Or less money and 2 year warranty:

https://eeuroparts.com/product/bosch...yABEgLVpfD_BwE

Also, FCP lists this one as new but fitment only to Land Rover which is odd as it should be the same part:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/rov...000040#fitment

This is global economy and parts quality is not what it use to be overall, but OEM Bosch still seems to be fairly decent quality.

You do know that Bosch sold their remanufactured electronics business (and the brand Bosch Reman) to a Chinese firm a few years ago? Reman Bosch alternators like those in the first two links are no longer of fairly decent quality. If you do buy a reman unit, the lifetime warranty is the way to go...

The last link you posted does appear to be a NEW Bosch...and quality on that one is very likely good as you say.

[Henn28]

I bought a Bosch reman alternator from FCP for my motor and so far so good in terms of it working. I was disappointed though that it had a damaged pully (ever so slight deformation in the edge) when it came out of the box. So look it over carefully if you go this route before installing it.

[bmw540san]

Originally Posted by Effduration

You do know that Bosch sold their remanufactured electronics business (and the brand Bosch Reman) to a Chinese firm a few years ago? Reman Bosch alternators like those in the first two links are no longer of fairly decent quality. If you do buy a reman unit, the lifetime warranty is the way to go...

The last link you posted does appear to be a NEW Bosch...and quality on that one is very likely good as you say.

I didn't know that but I guess I was partialy on the right track with my statement about global economy.
Thanks for the info and I will keep that in my mind.
Your info also reminds me of a fact that going with with local parts stores may be way to go when it comes to remanufactured parts.
If we're going to deal with warranty headaches then at least you take the part back to local store and get another without paying for return shipping and downtime of shipping time.
As far as quality, it's probably no better or worse than other competitors and it's almost like a lottery, lol.
For example:
I had failed rear caliper on my X5 and went with Autozone Or Advance (forgot which one) remanufactured part and it's been about 2 years / 15k miles no issues.
The remanufactured caliper is OEM ATE and the price was very reasonable.

[nick325xit 5spd]

Originally Posted by bmw540san

I didn't know that but I guess I was partialy on the right track with my statement about global economy.
Thanks for the info and I will keep that in my mind.
Your info also reminds me of a fact that going with with local parts stores may be way to go when it comes to remanufactured parts.
If we're going to deal with warranty headaches then at least you take the part back to local store and get another without paying for return shipping and downtime of shipping time.
As far as quality, it's probably no better or worse than other competitors and it's almost like a lottery, lol.
For example:
I had failed rear caliper on my X5 and went with Autozone Or Advance (forgot which one) remanufactured part and it's been about 2 years / 15k miles no issues.
The remanufactured caliper is OEM ATE and the price was very reasonable.

Eh. The parts store alternators are often literally just tested functional, spray painted and shipped. I'm not going to defend the quality of the Bosch remans (it's never been good - before or after they outsourced to China), but they at least come with new voltage regulators and aren't just spray bombed.

[StephenVA]

Buy new you will be happier
Look at the model/brand you have. Look up replacements on multiple websites. Easy

Example Valeo alternators for '03 4.4 X5 from Rockauto.com
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...generator,2412

For those who are new to this forum, here is the posting on Battery and charging system testing 101

Starting & charging systems testing techniques
Here are a few quick tests to determine a battery issue, a charging system issue, or a primary wiring issue.

Skill Level: 2 + (read and follow instructions)
Tools required: Digital Volt Meter (DVM), battery terminal cleaning tool, and 8mm, 10 mm sockets and ratchet with extensions.

You need to read battery voltage before starting any test on an electrical system as it will influence the results of Starting, Charging, and electrical tests of any kind. (Note: battery must be fully charged, see chart below).

Step One: Get out a digital volt meter, Read battery voltage (Key off). Read voltage (Key on) at the following points Battery, under hood jump point, and at the alternator. You only need to determine if you have 12 volts at the alternator with the key on (BIG FAT WIRE).
Step Two: You need to read the voltage at the BATTERY at idle, 1500, and 2500 RPM to determine voltage regulator function. Better still would be a Volt Amp tester (VAT-40 Image below) to induce a correct AMP load to read actual AMP/Volt output from the alternator and battery, as that is the only true testing method. Having a DVM that has min/max capability will make your testing easy.
Step Three: Remove and clean each and every ground in the trunk, jump point, and at the frame rail for the block (bad grounds = lots of electrical issues). Clean the starter/alternator cable connection under the car, just under the dead pedal.
Step Four: Failure to get correct output on running test means DEAD alternator (volt regulator, brushes, windings, etc.) Remove and bench test the unit or drag it to your local auto parts store for a second opinion (which will be worth exactly what you pay for it....)

Base line numbers
Battery Voltage should be 12.6+V (Key off) See chart below.
Battery voltage should be 13.5v - 14.5v on running tests (note large fluctuations at running RPMs is a SURE sign that the Volt Regulator is not doing its job. Smack with rubber hammer and retest. Rebuilt units have large variance of quality control from good 85% of the time to approx 50/50%.

NOTE: The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the vehicle's electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature the higher the charging voltage, and the higher the temperature the lower the charging voltage. The "normal" charging voltage on a typical application might be 13.8 to 14.3 volts at 77 degrees F. But at 20 degrees F. below zero, the charging voltage might be 14.9 to 15.3 volts. On a hot engine on a hot day, the normal charging voltage might drop to 13.5 to 14.3 volts.

Note 2: TIS specifies alternator voltage as 14.3 +/-0.1 V. But that is measured at the alternator output post. The values seen using the cluster will be 0.5 V or more below the alternator voltage output.

[haigha]

This is what I replaced my N62 alternator with in 2019:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ALTERNA...P/290786378197

Brand new. Not the exact part you need, but I recommend this eBay starter/alternator seller (99.5% positive feedback).

[Bdc101]

I put a reman Bosch unit in my 2003 3.0i and it barely lasted three years. I just replaced it last month after it failed. The sting of paying another $270 after only three years still hasn't worn off.