Trans failsafe + no gear indicator on dash

[Clavurion]

Have you already checked the easy stuff like gearbox control module (EGS) and it's wiring in E-box beside DME?

[Supr4]

I bought an used egs and same thing I didn't see broken wires when replacing it

[Purplecty]

Originally Posted by Supr4

Thanks for the links.



So I'm driving the car myself now and actually with engine cold I never have the prnd on dash and it goes into trans failsafe. When engine reach 60degrees approximately or sometimes only when it reach operating temperature I just have to cut engine and start again and it works normally. I can go full throttle each gear in manual or automatic mode with 0 issue.



Error codes are EGS line signal disturbed and solenoid 1.

The egs line signal distrusted error may have been from the egs swap but the solenoid 1 error is most likely electrical? I'd say solenoid 1 is your issue and you should at the very least replace that one but would be worth replacing all of them when the valve body is out. My original e38 trans randomly started working when I had experienced this similar issue weeks or months later but I ended up replacing the trans with a low mile rebuilt one since the original trans was having other issues like torque converter growling/groaning as well.

[Supr4]

Ok I'll replace the solenoids. But should I replace the whole solenoid block or it's not necessary?
I should buy something else if I replace the solenoids only joints o-rings ?

[Purplecty]

I mean that's the best "while it's out" option

[Supr4]

I won't risk doing it myself I think the mechanic won't remove it and just replace the solenoids. Solenoids are at 120euros and the block 400euros but I guess changing the whole valve body isn't necessary? What could be the symptoms if there was a crack or something else?

[deepblonde]

Originally Posted by EODguy

I don't trust generic P-codes to always be accurate, but....

As someone who has had this issue before I will give you all the places to look.

1. Interlock cable @mechatronic gearshift.

2. Magnetic reed switch on the valve body mechatronics. (if lucky cleaning will fix)

3. Solenoid and valve body seals.

4. Shit luck and it's a crack in the valve body channels allowing pressure bleed over.

A scanner like the Foxwell nt-510 or nt-520 (200 USD) will show you more data and what your gearshift is in vs what the transmission is in. A difference between the two will give you the symptoms you described, some of the fixes are easy, some cheap and some completely peg your fun meter...

Here's some pics of the different repairs I had to do, but missing the gearshift and reed switch pics.

Also be very very gentle with the gearshift cover as the tabs break easily and over tightening the shifter will put some gears out of position enough to not engage.

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That looks like a 6r60 Ford valve body. Had it been replaced before?

[EODguy]

ZF transmissions are used in the super duty trucks I believe so it wouldn't surprise me that they'd look almost identical.

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[wpoll]

The Ford 6R80 is the ZF 6HP26 made under license..... not sure how interchangable the parts are though.

[deepblonde]

Originally Posted by wpoll

The Ford 6R80 is the ZF 6HP26 made under license..... not sure how interchangable the parts are though.

The 6r60 valve body is similar enough to be swapped into the 6hp26 provided you use the TCM from the 6hp26.
The 6r80 valve body is too different , it cannot be used in the 6hp26.