4.8is alignment driver side rear issue

[nextelbuddy]

So I'm on a long what feels like 2 to 3-year journey to figure out why I cannot get my driver rear camber any better than negative 2.6 My passenger rear is no problem. We can go down as low as negative 1.6 with the stock eccentric bolts.

Things I have replaced:

- 20 piece lemforder suspension kit front and rear including the rosebud ball joint bushing on the rear suspension arm including new camber and toe arms
- replaced all four lower swingarm/control arm bushings with poly bushings

- new arnott air springs front and rear (running correct comfort rear springs for 4.8is with dual Axle air suspension per real oem)


I believe something is bent on the driver side rear but I can't figure out what because everything visually looks fine but I know it doesn't take much to throw even half degree to one degree.

We even tried using ratchet straps to pull the lower swing arms together and we pulled out the camber eccentric bolt and welded more material to achieve more positive camber and still could not get the driver side rear with inspec.

You will see in the pictures below and you can see with the eccentric bolt pulled out even with said at max positive camber on the eccentric bolt when it is pulled and everything held in place with ratchet straps. There is still a lot of room for that swing arm to come in even more, which means something is not right in the rear driver side suspension

Does anybody else have any experience on what could be bent causing me not to achieve more positive camber on the rear driver side?

I have silver project rear adjustable camber and toe arms but I can't use those. I've already removed them because when I use them to achieve more positive camber I can go as low as negative 1.5. however, that causes the rear air spring to interfere with the inner body cavity which causes air suspension issues so I had to remove them to reinstall the stock parts. Unfortunately the way the silver project or any rear adjustable camber arm work on these cars, They pivot the suspension in a different area causing geometry to change in a different way, which isn't an issue if you're on a rear coil setup but it does cause an issue with the rear air spring set up.



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[oldskewel]

Wow, you've done a lot. My only suggestion is that maybe the strap pull might not have been strong enough. I did a similar thing but with a steel cable come along, as described in this thread, with photos here:

https://xoutpost.com/1198294-post6.html

You'd want to have the right things loose (e.g., leave the right side all tight if it is how you want it, loosen whatever it is on the left side that you want to move just a little), pull it tight, and tighten things down. Of course, be concerned with torquing bushings when out of loaded geometry.

Every fastener in there has some amount of clearance / slop. You just need a little movement to get 2.6* back in spec.

I'd do that and see what you get.

Another tip (I do my own alignments, which really helps) - to get faster feedback on whether what you are doing is helping is to figure out how to get an accurate camber measurement in your garage, driveway, wherever you are doing the work. So you can do it, measure it, and keep trying if needed.

[Themoog]

When I did my rear suspension I set it up with the bags deflated and the suspension pushed up with jacks (wheels were off) to get the correct wheel centre in the arch. Then I altered the cam bolts and the top adjustable arms to get it as close as I could with a camber level and string to the front wheels. It’s a bit trick but it can be done.
When I took it to the alignment shop it was virtually in spec - I couldn’t believe it as mine had been out for a while before I did that. The rear camber is just at the limit but my inside edge tyre wear has gone..

[Homerlovesbeer]

Wow lots done.

Good luck, the 4.8is can be tricky

[80stech]

Have you checked/replaced the lower A/H-frame (don't remember what BMW calls it) bushings or assembly?

[g300d]

In my experience with E53's, it's the rear suspension upper arm that is the culprit.

The bushing tends to deflect and take a set inward over time, so the top of the hub follows accordingly and cause negative camber that cannot be adjusted out.

I couldnt tell on the car but comparing a new arm's bushing with the one removed, the permanent deflection was very obvious.

[getty150]

I don't have the X5 but the x3. But just last week I needed rear toe and camber adjustments.
https://www.xoutpost.com/showthread.php?p=1233042
At first the shop told me (and took my $$) that the rears couldn't be adjusted!
Well, I had already viewed YouTube and I have access to newtis . Plus I have an official BMW training service manual.
To get the proper service, I had to call the shop's HQ explaining the incorrectness.
I then had to take to the shop the print out of the directions to make the corrections. Lucky also the manager was well versed with BMW and it's alignment process...that makes a big difference.
And finally the job was done and correct. Plus the shop completed a second BMW car at no charge to me!

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[Clavurion]

Could there be some minor damage on the hub carrier?