DIY: 2006 BMW E53 X5 M54 (6sp MT) CV Boots

[cn90]

DIY: 2006 BMW E53 X5 M54 (6sp MT) CV Boots

- This is a 2006 X5 with 6-speed MT and ~ 142K miles.

- The LEFT CV OUTER Boot just cracked. If you catch it early, then you can re-use the CV joint.
In contrast to the P2 Volvo (2007 S60, 2005 XC90 which you cannot undo the Tripod side), the E53 X5 INNER Tripod is interesting: from factory, GKN never crimped (or staked) the edge enough to keep the Tripod inside. So, the Tripod simply slides out! This makes it much easier to do the CV Boots in the X5 (vs the P2 Volvo).

- This is bc in cars with GKN axles, if you can undo the INNER side, it is easier. This happens bc the OUTER CV joint is always a challenge to undo! In any case, this is relatively easy in this BMW X5.

- There were a few DIYs in this forum, but trust me, none of this is 30-minute job like they said. Budget a Saturday so you can go slow and be methodical. Some of the DIYs in this forum that you should consult with:
* DIY by “amacman”…45 pages!
* DIY by “hayaku”…1 page!

- Torque values: this is a good link, accurate or not idk:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...que-specs.html

-The 36-mm axle installation tool is discussed in this REAR bearing I wrote for my 1998 528i years ago (in 2011). If you don’t want to make the tool, then buy the tool on eBay called “Subaru/BMW Axle Installation Tool”. Make sure there is an adapter for M27 x 1.5. Full discussion is in this thread below:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/d...sy-way.566786/

- Fluids DIY has info on the small screws/bolts for plastic splash shield ---> DIY: 2006 BMW X5 3.0i: Front/Rear Diff, MT, Transfer Case Fluids:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...se-fluids.html

- This is the job that you hope to do ONLY once in the life of the car. So, I replaced the Differential Seals too bc you don’t want to come back and do the SIDE seals later! The PINION seal is a different topic, unless you know what you are doing, don’t touch this seal: just watch the fluid level and the pinion seal for leak from time to time and you will be fine. If you ever need to replace this pinion seal, search youTube first so you can PRELOAD the input bearing properly!

PARTS/TORQUE Values:

1. OUTER CV Boot: 31607507402 (GKN brand)
2. INNER CV Boot: 31607565315 (GKN brand)
3. Differential Seals: 31508743675 or 31508860349 (Corteco brand, which is identical to factory seal).

* The Aluminum Stiffening Plate: 16-mm, I use roughly 40 ft*lb ---> followed by 45 degrees (the book says 40 ft*lb ---> 90 degrees but I used 45 degrees. Discussed at length in forum). I used Blue Loctite for > 10 yrs. Zero issues.
* Wheel sensor: 5-mm hex.
* Control arm: 16-mm and 18-mm: 73 ft*lb ---> followed by ? 90 degrees. I think this is too much, I simply used ~ 73 ft*lb then maybe 45 degrees over the yrs. Zero issues.

* Turn the steering wheel to create more space. For LEFT side, turn the SW to the RIGHT.
* Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.

* Struts: 22-mm bolts. Torque = ~ 184 ft*lb per link above.
* Axle nut: the book says ~ 310 ft*lb. I don’t have a torque wrench that goes that high. So, I have been using Volvo procedures for years: go to ~ 70 ft*lb ---> then 45 degrees. This is enough torque to bind the axle to the hub.

PROCEDURE:

1. This is advanced level, this assumes you know how to jack the car, place jack stands, change brake etc. This car’s subframe has a tubular shape, so be careful bc it can slide off the jack stand if you don’t place it properly. SAFETY first! For LF wheel, chock the diagonal tire, which is the RR tire. Apply hand brake.

2. I overkilled with jack stands bc this is a very heavy car, if it falls, you are gone. Again SAFTEY first! After the floor jack lifts it up, I place 3 jack stands as shown. Then nudge the floor jack a bit as the last line of defense.

3. Remove brake caliper and hang it as shown. Also remove the speed sensor.












4. Place the car in neutral, wedge the screwdriver against the brake rotor, then undo the 36-mm nut. Unstake the nut first. I should have added 1-2 wheel bolts to help hold the rotor but it did fine with just the set screw.

5. Now remove the Control Arm inner bolt/nut.

6. Leave the 36-mm nut flushed with the axle, then tap it with a socket wide enough to push it inside. You may need to use the Axle Tool to push the axle in. You can rent this tool for free at Advance Auto Parts store etc.

7. Use a screwdriver to help swing the spindle outward so you can remove the axle.







8. Look up youtube video on X5 axle removal. I placed a cold chisel at 9:00 and 3:00 and tap them upwards. If you get stuck, rotate to axle and repeat, the idea is to have the circlip OPEN end facing 6:00.

9. Some 30-40 mL of diff fluid will leak out when the seal is removed.

[cn90]

10. Once the axle is out, you can see the cracked boot. On the Tripod side, remove the circlip. Optional: mark the Shaft and Tripod with whiteout paint so it goes back to the same relationship.










11. Do the OUTER boot first. Make sure you squeeze some grease into the balls. Then the rest of the grease goes in the boot.

12. For the INNER boot, you may have to use an appropriate socket to stretch it a bit so it can slide in more easily. It came with 3 packs of grease, so I put 2 packs inside the cup and 1 pack in the boot itself.

13. Use an Oetiker pliers tool to squeeze on the clamps.

14. Clean the outside of the rebuilt axle so if it leaks later, you know.

15. Put everything back, double-check, triple-check to be sure all the bolts are torque properly. The Control Arm bolt needs to be torque with wheel on the ground. You need to be creative to tighten it properly.

16. To remove the SIDE seal, I wedge a pry bar then used a pair of right angle pliers to pry it out as shown.

17. To install the new seal: I used the Plumbing PVC Adapter (a few dollars at hardware store). This particular 2” PVC Adapter somehow was a perfect tool. The ridge stops the seal from being installed too deep. I also apply red tacky grease on the garter spring of the seal to prevent it from coming loose when you hammer the seal in. At factory, they have a hydraulic tool to push (not hammer) the seal in. At home is a different story, when you hammer the seal in, the garter spring can dislodge. The trick is red tacky grease on the garter spring + tapping with only enough force to push it in. I used a rubber hammer.








18. Last but not least, do NOT forget to add some fluid. The Fill hole is barely 5 mm above the lowest part of the SIDE seal, so I added about 40 mL of Redline 75W90 Diff Fluid (Info in the link above).

19. Put everything back, once the 36-mm nut is tightened to ~ 70 ft*lb, mark it with whiteout, then go another 45 degrees. I have been doing this for 30 years on BMWs, good enough.

20. Put the stiffening plate back, now enjoy reading some 26-page discussion on re-using the bolts etc lol. Don’t want to read all 26 pages on the debate of re-using the bolts? For the last > 10 years, I re-used the bolts many times using the trick above (using Blue Loctite and use ~ 40 ft*lb ---> followed by 45 degrees). It has worked great for me.

21. Re-install brake caliper and the speed sensor.

That is all boys and girls. Then test drive the car and watch for fluid leak or CV boot leak in the next few weeks.

[cn90]

Forgot to take a photo of Tripod.
So I borrowed a photo from Volvo P2 S60 Tripod.

Same idea as these Euro car axles are made by GKN.

- Once the circlip is off, use a DRIFT to punch the tripod out (Blue arrow).
- But mark the spots first (Red circles) to be sure it goes back to the same spot (optional but may be important as you don't want vibration).
- During re-installation, use an appropriate socket and pound at the correct place (too large a socket will pound on the needle bearings!!!). So find a socket slightly larger than the diameter of the axle itself so you can pound on the round part of the tripod (Yellow arrows).

[X5chemist]

Sweet right up.

Can you do a front bearing one too?