Rear Sub Frame cracked.

[amebb]

So, Finally the rea sub frame on my car has cracked.


After lots of thought i have chosen to go forwards ad replace the frame with a frame that is in better condition.


I wanted to ask, if anyone else has ever replaced their rear subframe? Is it easy? what issues did you come across?


Please feel free to share as much information as you can... and wish me luck too!

[wpoll]

There are a number of threads on here about this task, such as this one...

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-overhaul.html

Looks like a lot of work but nothing terrbily difficult.

[Factory6speed]

I replaced mine a few months ago. I found a super clean southern owned one on eBay for about $600. The one on the car had spent time in the bottom of the ocean.

I took all the suspension off and just the floor jack on each side of the bare subframe it came down really easy. The stupid thing I did was I had a full tank of fuel when I decided to start the job. If I had thought a little further ahead, empty tank, drop the fuel tank too and do the fuel pump. I'll have to do that again later.

The worst part was probably getting the parking brake cable to come out of the hub. They had welded themselves in there. The swingarm bushings were also hard to press in and out.

I went with the problem solver poly bushings. It is a great time to do the rear brake pipes. New wheel bearings, swing arm bushings, wishbones, guiding links, ball joints, integral links, Bilstein shocks, lowering springs, brakes, parking brake, driveshaft center bearing, eisenmann exhaust. Painted and resealed the diff. I ended up over $1k on OEM bolts... Ouch

I also took the battery tray all out and cleaned and did some minor rust removal under there. It was on the stands for almost 4 months. Second small test drive and it kicked the serpentine belt off and the number one rod bearing had been spun. Someday I'll drive it again

[amebb]

Originally Posted by Factory6speed

I replaced mine a few months ago. I found a super clean southern owned one on eBay for about $600. The one on the car had spent time in the bottom of the ocean.

I took all the suspension off and just the floor jack on each side of the bare subframe it came down really easy. The stupid thing I did was I had a full tank of fuel when I decided to start the job. If I had thought a little further ahead, empty tank, drop the fuel tank too and do the fuel pump. I'll have to do that again later.

The worst part was probably getting the parking brake cable to come out of the hub. They had welded themselves in there. The swingarm bushings were also hard to press in and out.

I went with the problem solver poly bushings. It is a great time to do the rear brake pipes. New wheel bearings, swing arm bushings, wishbones, guiding links, ball joints, integral links, Bilstein shocks, lowering springs, brakes, parking brake, driveshaft center bearing, eisenmann exhaust. Painted and resealed the diff. I ended up over $1k on OEM bolts... Ouch

I also took the battery tray all out and cleaned and did some minor rust removal under there. It was on the stands for almost 4 months. Second small test drive and it kicked the serpentine belt off and the number one rod bearing had been spun. Someday I'll drive it again

From start to finish how long did it take you to complete the whole job?

[Factory6speed]

It's hard to say really I procrastinate so much and get distracted with other things in life. But I'm pretty sure I had one evening removing the exhaust and the rear bumper and most of the suspension. And the second evening removing the rest and lowering the subframe. From there it's all down to what you want to do and how fast you want to work but you could easily have the car together in three or four days. It took me a couple evenings to make the brake pipes. A solid 2 weeks on the chassis. A few other misc evenings trying to figure out the hydraulic press and dealing with all the parts.

[Henn28]

Originally Posted by Factory6speed

I replaced mine a few months ago. I found a super clean southern owned one on eBay for about $600. The one on the car had spent time in the bottom of the ocean.

I took all the suspension off and just the floor jack on each side of the bare subframe it came down really easy. The stupid thing I did was I had a full tank of fuel when I decided to start the job. If I had thought a little further ahead, empty tank, drop the fuel tank too and do the fuel pump. I'll have to do that again later.

The worst part was probably getting the parking brake cable to come out of the hub. They had welded themselves in there. The swingarm bushings were also hard to press in and out.

I went with the problem solver poly bushings. It is a great time to do the rear brake pipes. New wheel bearings, swing arm bushings, wishbones, guiding links, ball joints, integral links, Bilstein shocks, lowering springs, brakes, parking brake, driveshaft center bearing, eisenmann exhaust. Painted and resealed the diff. I ended up over $1k on OEM bolts... Ouch

I also took the battery tray all out and cleaned and did some minor rust removal under there. It was on the stands for almost 4 months. Second small test drive and it kicked the serpentine belt off and the number one rod bearing had been spun. Someday I'll drive it again

OMG, that last paragraph is tough to read. Ugh.

[Masospaghetti]

Is this a common problem (rear subframe cracking)?

[amebb]

Originally Posted by Masospaghetti

Is this a common problem (rear subframe cracking)?

It can be. Normally if the X5 has rust on the subframe and that is not addressed promptly. Then things just go from bad to worse!


Always a good idea to keep an eye on what is going on underneath the car!

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