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  #21  
Old Today, 02:13 AM
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Set temp to auto when not max. But also test max.

If you can get evaporator to 4c it's charged. From that point air blend doors etc are where to look.

I usually get about 4c out the dash but i never usually check each to know if they are warmer
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  #22  
Old Today, 03:46 PM
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@OP Posting your findings on the heater valves might help others. AFAIK, the pre-facelift uses a normal compressor and the evap sensor in right in the evaporator core while the facelift cars use the variable displacement compressor and have the evap sensor in the air flow just after the evaporator, might help you with making sense of some things. Remember the system is trying to hit a target temp for the interior of the car and that lower air flow (which normally is out the left side) will result in lower temp of the air coming out of the vents.
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  #23  
Old Today, 04:01 PM
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[mention]80stech [/mention] good feedback about pre/post. Also: VERY helpful feedback earlier about in and out hoses all being the same temp but that it's baseline under hood temp.

Good stuff.

A bit of push back on the "correct way" to charge which is of course very correct, but for ≥ twenty year car with weak AC it's ok to top it off but def best to use high/low gauge to have a clue. Our two needed a refresh a couple times over the six years we had them and one i did a full vacuum and recharge once. I only used estimated weight from cans and history of good high/low numbers and excellent results resulted.

I "cheat" nowadays my good friend has a fully automated snap on AC machine even adds oil!

But i still will use my manual gear to top off family cars at home.
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