maintainence questions again...

[jwalsh22]

Okay,

So I've got to change my rear pads now, after doing the fronts about a couple of months ago. I'm going to flush my fluid this time (figured I'd wait until I did the rears to do this) and replace the pads, rotors, wear sensor, etc. I have a couple questions though, about the brakes and some other stuff I'm doing.

1.) I should need only about 1 liter of brake fluid right? Any recommendations? I've searched around here and the ATE Supergold seems pretty popular, any advantages to going with say the Blue?

2.) are there any other parts I should be thinking of replacing while doing my rear brake pads and rotors? Like the parking brake shoes? What exactly are those, what do they do, and would they need to be replaced?

3.) I'm going to be driving in Mexico for a month or so, and I was thinking about swapping out my fuel filter, possibly adding another one if necessary. What's the standard for these anyway, what's the replacement interval? Is it a DIY task or something better left to a pro?

4.) Wipper blades - I'm not really happy with my current (OEM) blades when it comes to snow and ice. They just get mucked up with ice and don't wipe correctly. The low-profile ones they now put on the new bmws seem like they'd be better, would there be any way to find out if they'll work on a 2002 3.0i? Anyone have any experience with these in various conditions?

Now, 5.) I'm having my windshield replaced due to some chips, a crack, and some untimely sand-blasting on its most recent trip out east, anything to watch for as far as the install goes? The local stealership recommended a glass shop, I talked to them and they seemed really experienced with bmw windshields. I had them order an OEM windshield through the dealership. What could go wrong? What should I watch for after the install? Anyone have any horror stories/problems to share?

Oh, and 6.) After I got new tires on the X a couple of months ago I started noticing a sort of grinding noise that appears more as I slow down. I replaced tires (Yokohamas) and brake pads and rotors (axxis deluxe and brembo) at the same time. I'm not sure if this noise is either of those things, as the tires are known for increased tread noise, and the brakes are different, so maybe they make different noises. It doesn't really sound like the tires, there's a vibration that you can feel that doesn't seem like the tread hitting the road. Is it possible that I need to replace my control arm bushings? What are some of the symtoms of needing those replaced?


Alright guys, thanks a lot in advance for the great advice!

[JCL]

Lots of questions

1.) I should need only about 1 liter of brake fluid right? Any recommendations? I've searched around here and the ATE Supergold seems pretty popular, any advantages to going with say the Blue?

Use the same spec as your manual lists. Any name brand. Not worth changing brake fluid IMO, better to match what is there.

2.) are there any other parts I should be thinking of replacing while doing my rear brake pads and rotors? Like the parking brake shoes? What exactly are those, what do they do, and would they need to be replaced?

Just the wear sensor. Parking brake shoes are the wear element in a drum brake activated by a cable leading from the handbrake lever. Unless you are trying to do handbrake turns, or leave the park brake on often while driving, they won't be worn. Check that they move freely, nothing is sticking. They probably won't even need adjusting.

3.) I'm going to be driving in Mexico for a month or so, and I was thinking about swapping out my fuel filter, possibly adding another one if necessary. What's the standard for these anyway, what's the replacement interval? Is it a DIY task or something better left to a pro?

Good practice to replace it. Look on the home page for an article.

4.) Wiper blades - I'm not really happy with my current (OEM) blades when it comes to snow and ice. They just get mucked up with ice and don't wipe correctly. The low-profile ones they now put on the new bmws seem like they'd be better, would there be any way to find out if they'll work on a 2002 3.0i? Anyone have any experience with these in various conditions?

You could try the Bosch Icon. Several good reports. I haven't used them, but they are on my list to install next time I need blades.

5.) I'm having my windshield replaced due to some chips, a crack, and some untimely sand-blasting on its most recent trip out east, anything to watch for as far as the install goes? The local dealership recommended a glass shop, I talked to them and they seemed really experienced with bmw windshields. I had them order an OEM windshield through the dealership. What could go wrong? What should I watch for after the install? Anyone have any horror stories/problems to share?

Leave the vehicle for 24 hours after the install, give it a chance to set up properly. Not mandatory, but a good idea.

6.) After I got new tires on the X a couple of months ago I started noticing a sort of grinding noise that appears more as I slow down. I replaced tires (Yokohamas) and brake pads and rotors (axxis deluxe and brembo) at the same time. I'm not sure if this noise is either of those things, as the tires are known for increased tread noise, and the brakes are different, so maybe they make different noises. It doesn't really sound like the tires, there's a vibration that you can feel that doesn't seem like the tread hitting the road. Is it possible that I need to replace my control arm bushings? What are some of the symtoms of needing those replaced?

Doesn't sound like bushings, more like a different pad characteristic, and different tire noise. Worn bushings would cause the suspension to shift around, more of a clunk. The Axxis pads can be noisier than the stock pads. It isn't usually objectionable, but I do notice it from time to time with mine. In my case, it is more of a contact noise than a vibration.

Hope that helps.

Jeff

[jwalsh22]

wow, this is exactly why I love this place. thanks a lot for the advice! one more question though, when I'm bleeding my brake fluid, wouldn't be easier to use a different color fluid so I'll be able to tell when it has reached the caliper? If everything is equal, why not use a different color to make things easier?

[JCL]

I am not an expert on blue brake fluid, but it sounds like you read the ATE advertisements

I have nothing against ATE, or any other manufacturer of blue brake fluid. I am sure they make fine fluid. I guess I don't hold much with blue and amber fluid (although it says Racing on the can, so if you run the risk of boiling the fluid going into turn 5 at your local track, it may be worth it to you..... )

When you change out the brake fluid, you want to get the old fluid out, but it is not as important to get all of the old fluid out as it is to get all of the water out. It is the water that causes the damage, over time. Due to the relative specific gravities of the two fluids, the water that is not held in suspension is all sitting at the low point (which is why caliper pistons and wheel cylinders fail much more often than master cylinders).

All things being equal, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to use blue brake fluid. I just don't like gimmicks, and it seems like a gimmick. If you use all of a new can of name brand fluid, correct DOT spec, of whatever colour, you will be in good shape, IMO.

You do want to ensure that what you put in is not DOT5, which is not compatible with what is in your system now.

Jeff

[ShifterKart]

If you want the best brake fluid go with Castrol SRF. Nothing else compares when it comes to brake fluid but you pay a big price, $80 a liter. Any brake fluid that meets BMW specs will work. Castrol LMA is a good alternative and does not absorb as much moisture as most brake fluids.

For me:

SRF in the race cars and karts
LMA in the tow vehicle