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#1
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Stealer says brakes are "warped" ???
Took the X into the stlr today and was told that the susp. is fine and that "I must have ran through water, rotors are warped. New Pads/Rotors/Sensors $770 !!!!!!!" . I bought this thing CPO 2 months ago, do these rotors really warp at the first sign of moisture? Its not like I have been driving through lakes with this thing, just rain. Any ideas? PS: Does anyone make a big brake kit for the E53? I swear I saw one installed on here before but cant find it.. Where to buy? |
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#2
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CPO doesn't cover the brakes?
I think they should give you some good will since you did get the car there. But anyhow, the price is steep! Quote:
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#3
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Sounds like what happened on my last brake job on my 325i. One day the brakes were fine the next the fronts were vibrating horribly above 40 mph. My brother-in-law mechanic said I may have run through a puddle of water while the rotors were hot. I replaced the front rotors and pads and now all is smooth.
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#4
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CPO doesn't cover brakes.... the maintenance contract does.
Quote:
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#5
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I would ask the dealer for some help on the price since you just bought it but I don't think they'll cover it. Alternatively, go to a good independent mechanic to have them replaced. Get some OEM rotors or as some have done, Brembo (non-cross drilled) rotors and Axxis pads.
See this article
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#6
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I don't see how running through just one puddle could suddenly give oyu warped brakes...I know there is a difference in temperature once you enter the water...but to have instant effect?!
I go through puddles just for fun, and I haven't had any warping, despite going through over 40 puddles in the last 2 months...
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2008 ML320 CDI | Iridium Silver | Black ARTICO Leather | Premium Package (H/K Logic7, Parktronic, Rear Heated Seats, Rear Power Hatch, DVD Nav, 10-way Front Seats w/ Memory) | Backup Camera | Aluminum Running Boards | 4500K MTEC Low-beam HID | 30% Metallic Tint | Boomerang2 Recovery System | Weathertech Front Floorliners | Bridgestone Blizzak DM-V1 Winter Tires |
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#7
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Running through water will not cause the rotors to warp, period! Contamination on rotors (rust, oil, etc.) COULD masquerade as warpage by creating uneven friction when in fact the rotors are not warped. This should eventually fade away.
A more likely cause is that the wheel lug nuts where NOT EVENLY TORQUED the last time the wheels were R&R'd and therefore uneven stress was put on the rotors. This would not initially warp the rotors during normal braking in which the rotors get warm but not terribly hot, so you could go for a period of time with all seeming well. But eventually you will use the brakes heavily and really heat the rotors which will cause the rotors to yield to the unevenly torqued lug nuts and become warped. ALWAYS HAVE THE WHEEL LUG NUTS EQUALLY TORQUED to 101 pound feet. If the rotors are in fact warped, and if they have enough “meat” left on them, they could be “turned” to remove any warpage. Each rotor is inscribed with the minimum thickness to which it will still be serviceable so don’t just let the dealer tell you the rotors must be replaced. Have the dealer show you with a caliper that the rotors are beyond limit before they replace them. |
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#8
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Could be uneven deposits on the rotor. Read this article and see if it applies to you:
http://stoptech.com/whitepapers/warpaway.htm Also read this article on rotor warping: http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
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Wake up every day that would be a start. Last edited by rayxi; 05-06-2005 at 05:42 PM. |
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