HELP!!! Best test for stuck caliper?

[we350z]

My brakes were working just fine prior to me changing the pads and rotors. I have maybe 150mi on the new pads and rotors. Shortly after I noticed the wheel jerks to the right when I brake reasonably hard. Everything seems even and fine when I apply the brakes lightly.

I think I have stuck caliper but want to be absolutely sure, some are saying it could be thrust arm / tension strut / front control arm bushing or ball joint. I have already done the basic stuff: re-checking that all the hardware is torqued properly, rotors are straight and true, no pad material visible on rotors, inboard & outboard pads are sitting flush on the rotors, brake lines not kinked.

I would like to prove this out with a high degree of certainty before buying a replacement reman caliper and swapping it out. I am reading bad things about bleeding the brake system. These are all methods I have heard for determining stuck caliper - trying to determine what is the best:

Driving tests:

1) Temperature - compare by putting hand near each rotor on each side to see if one is hotter then the other. Perhaps use thermometer to be more scientific.

2) Rotor blueing - may occur on the rotor that is compensating for the other side with the seized caliper.

3) Dust - Clean wheels, more brake dust should accumulate on the good side.

4) Smell - stronger caliper is working harder may overheat and smell asbestos from brake pads

5) Steering wheel jerk/shudder/vibration (mine jerks to the right quickly upon hard braking then stops) - wheel should move to the stronger side and vehicle will also veer in this direction.

6) Measure rotor thickness with digial caliper and compare each rotor thickness (prob too close with low mileage). Try measuring at different points on rotor to see if even.

Other Tests:

QUESTION - can the piston seize in any position? Is it usually compressed (open or pads spread wider) or uncomressed (closed or pads spread narrower)????

7) Jack up front end - apply brakes to build up pressure then release and rotate each wheel.

QUESTION - Is it also worth trying to do this while keeping the pressure applied to the brake pedal? Either with a buddy putting his foot on it or with a brick or something?

8) Remove wheels and use c-clamp to compress the calipers. A seized caliper should not move from its stuck position. Also then apply pressure to brake pedal and see if they uncompress.

Lastly - being that i have only 150mi on the new rotors, is it likely they will be OK once i replace seized caliper or will I need to machine or replace the fronts (or possibly just the pass side if it warped?) I can't imagine they would be toast with such low mileage.

Any other suggestions? Thanks guys!!!!!