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#1
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Window Regulator question...Important!
Thanks in advance. |
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#2
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there is the 8mm nut in the back of the plastic clip. you need to put your finger back there while you screwing on the front 8mm bolt.
If the 8mm nut is missing you need to check inside your door it must felt off in the there. |
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#3
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This is too funny, I just changed my front window regulator last night. I gotta say, I found the experience kind of frustrating compared to any other DIY work I have done. I found this to be a not-so-well-designed part from a maintenance point of view. The space is small, that's a given. I spent sometime getting the regulator out of (and then trying to get the new one back into) the two top holes where each side of the regulator bars screw into. Not being sure how much force to use, you have to put pressure against the glass when you try to slide the screw back into place at the top. This part took me some time relative to the minimal amount of time required to take everything off the door and put it back on. Pulling the foam took patience and care, but that was OK. The screw in question must be held from the back with one finger and then you are fine. Also, for me, the new regulator's clips that move the window up and down were slightly higher than the actual hole in the regulator bar so I had to do it by hand at the beginning. Once I had the screws in, I gave it power and moved the window down a bit. As well, one of the 8 mm nuts fell in the door so I had to fish it out. Does anyone know if you can get a new sound protection foam? The sides on mine are a little "frazzeled" from me pulling on them. I was gentle and took my time, but it clearly shows that it's been pulled apart. BTW, I am curious from anyone else who has changed it, what part failed? I looked at the original one and it was obvious that the clip that hooks onto the cable and lifts the glass came off the cable. I'm not sure why as the passenger side door sees little action compared to the driver side. BTW, thanks to the original poster of the DIY. While the DIY needs updating to cover some details - such as the cable that attaches to the air bag is clipped to the frame, the regulator cables are tied with plastic ties to the other cables - in the end it was priceless to have the guide. Thanks again. !
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Last edited by x5beamr; 09-10-2008 at 04:49 PM. |
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#4
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[quote=x5beamr]
Does anyone know if you can get a new sound protection foam? The sides on mine are a little "frazzeled" from me pulling on them. I was gentle and too my time, but it clearly shows that it's been pulled apart. next time use the little knift and cut along the glue so you don't have to buy new one. okay... |
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#5
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[quote=mrbmwx5]
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Awww man, and you know, I had this exact thought in my head as I started pulling on the soundproofing foam: "hmm.. perhaps I should get an exacto-knife.. yeah, maybe..." .... but I could not remember exactly where it was so I just kept on pulling... --
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#6
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How much should it cost for a standard auto body shop to replace a window regulator? I believe it was $500.00 for my driver side 6-mos ago and now my rear driver side regulator is broken. I might just try the DIY myself....just don't know how long it will take me to do myself and its cold here in the east now.
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#7
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I don't know how much it would cost but the part itself cost me just over $100 - about $110 - and then I'd imagine they charge 2.5-3 hours labour, so at 100/hour, that's easy 250 + 100=350 minimum.
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#8
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The hardest thing is to get the door(big plastic cover) off the door frame then peeling of the moisture/sound barrier. Just have to be patient with x-acto knife. My indy shop wanted $450 and dealer probably a little more. but none was able to work on it right away and my window stuck on the opening position. I followed this instruction: http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/e...nt-bmw-x5.html BTW I recommend getting the tools from bavaauto to work on doors etc, it's nylon so won't scratch any wood/plastic/metal trims. Good luck. Last edited by HPIA4v2; 10-28-2008 at 10:33 AM. |
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