A/C Problem...Bad FSR?

[mh60sardog]

I have a 2001 3.0 X5 and my battery died on me the other day. After a jump start, my A/C started giving me problems. I have no temp control with the snowflake button on or off. The air is only blowing outside air temp. The rear blower will blow hot with the heat up, but not cold with the A/C. I am also hearing a slight whine behind the vents and the Aux fan will not turn on with the A/C.

From the searches I have done, I think it might be the FSR. Any second opinions?

[mh60sardog]

The front vents started blowing hot air when I turn the heater on all the sudden, but still no A/C. So I decided to try and replace the FSR to fix the problem. It did not help. Any other ideas?

[blueagle]

I had to change both FSR and aux fan assembly. I drive an 02 E53 X5 3.0d euro.

[mh60sardog]

Wha did the aux fan assembly set you back$?$

[mh60sardog]

I now know that my battery is dead after having to jump start it again this morning. Could this have anything to do with it?

[blueagle]

aux fan assembly cost me around USD500 bucks..

[mh60sardog]

It's definately not the battery. I replaced my battery with a Bosch type 49 for the 4.4. It works fine in the 3.0 ($94 from PepBoys with a 96 month warranty as opposed to the $220 from the dealership with a 24 month warranty).
I guess it is going to be the aux fan. Does anybody know if they can be repaired instead of replaced?

[Weasel]

They're usually gone when they go out, and no parts are available to service it... But when the Aux fan is out the head pressure on the high side of the system shoots up to like 450 psi, and the system looses cooling ability.

And be careful with non-oem batteries!!!!!!!! The DME engine computer controls the charge level output from the alternator and is precisely programmed to work with the OEM battery, which is designed for the HEAVY electrical load the vehicle has. If a non-oem battery is to be used, it can NOT be venting in the vehicle, HAS to be a maintenance free design, HAS to be the same build design and materials. (there are 3 different styles, lead acid, lead calcium, agm) It has to not only match the CCA, but ALSO match the RC (reserve capacity) and AH (amp hour) ratings as well. And the AH and RC are just as, if not more important than the CCA. Otherwise you will be going through batteries at very shortened intervals, and at risk of other electrical side affects, like the vehicle cutting loads because the lower capacity for loads.

But here's the fan you likely need.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=64&fg=55&hl=2

[X5rolls]

Glad I saw your advice on this - I've had electrical problems in other vehicles, 3 in the same car actually and the battery was one of them. It was fustrating to say the least to sort it out. Sticking with OEM battery for the X is really good advice from the sound of it.

Originally Posted by weasel56

And be careful with non-oem batteries!!!!!!!! The DME engine computer controls the charge level output from the alternator and is precisely programmed to work with the OEM battery, which is designed for the HEAVY electrical load the vehicle has. If a non-oem battery is to be used, it can NOT be venting in the vehicle, HAS to be a maintenance free design, HAS to be the same build design and materials. (there are 3 different styles, lead acid, lead calcium, agm) It has to not only match the CCA, but ALSO match the RC (reserve capacity) and AH (amp hour) ratings as well. And the AH and RC are just as, if not more important than the CCA. Otherwise you will be going through batteries at very shortened intervals, and at risk of other electrical side affects, like the vehicle cutting loads because the lower capacity for loads.

[Zulu95]

Gee! I just had an Exide fitted 4 years ago and NEVER had a problem since. I guess the dealership didn't read the memo about battery requirements as they had fitted a smaller VW/Varta battery at some point and did not even spot that in the CPO inspection.