CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM / OIL SEPARATOR NOW COVERED UNDER CPO !!!

[treat44]

Originally Posted by JCL

It is possible for the crankcase ventilation valve (CCV) to fail by itself, but the usual failure mode is that it gets blocked.

Inside the engine there is condensation, from the heating/cooling cycles of running it and then shutting it off. Entirely normal. That condensation can build up, combine with the oil, and form a milky coloured paste (condensate). If the engine gets fully up to temperature, ie hot enough (as it is designed to), for long enough (which doesn't happen with a lot of short trips) then the condensation burns off and there is no issue. That is how most engines are. However, if there are lots of short trips, without warming the engine completely, then the condensate builds up over time, and the milky coloured paste, which is often visible under the oil filler cap, collects in the crankcase breather system. If there is a lot of it, and it gets very cold out, then it can freeze and block the crankcase vent. If the vent freezes shut, you get a pressurized crankcase, and usually a valve cover gasket leak. If it freezes open, manifold vacuum can draw in oil from the sump, causing a hydraulic lock. That isn't common, it is more common to have an oil leak and the oil to basically be dumped all over the engine.

The new modified CCV was first insulated (to help prevent it freezing) and in some models, heated. Those modifications were to address the symptoms, not the cause. The real solution is to drive the car in such a way that it gets a good run every now and then. If that isn't possible, and the condensate is visible under the oil filler cap, then the CCV can be cleaned out. Eventually, the hoses to the CCV go soft from the oil and they need replacing. If the CCV is damaged, it needs replacing. However, simply cleaning it out isn't as expensive as replacing it all, and if I had to do a lot of short trips, and lived in a place where it got cold enough to freeze the condensate, I would clean it out annually.

I would not use Sea Foam.

Variable weather conditions contribute because they can result in more condensation. All that is moot if the car is driven hard enough, however.

I share your enthusiasm for SAABs, I drove a 99 and used a family member's 900 many years ago.

Nice blip on the CCV. I also have issues with my 2003 3.0i in Northern IL. Replaced twice in last 5 years; first (50k mi) blew a VC gasket under CPO, then replaced last year (100k) as preventative maitenance (moisture under cap, misfire, clogged DISA), recently (140k) froze stuck and caught the excess pressure and got towed home to heated garage and sucked out hoses and changed oil M1 0w40. All of the above occured with -10 deg F. The most recent was a short trip followed by parking over night at those temps (WTF was I thinking?) I have NOT had issues with my E36 or E39. I have some theories on this....

My wife and I have similar commutes, by we do not have similar driving habits.
My E36 was and E39 is a manual.
The X5 has an additional quart of oil
The X5's engine has more "breathing room" under the hood.
I recall reading an article that mentions a vacuum connection not used on E53 M54 CCV but is used on my E39 M52TU and prior E36.
Perhaps the E53's cooling system has too much capacity for cold climates.

Sorry about the rambling, I need sleep. I just got my Cub Cadet snowthrower stuck in this blizzard!

[DimAciD]

can someone tell me the part number of this CCV, i cant find it anywhere

[JCL]

Originally Posted by DimAciD

can someone tell me the part number of this CCV, i cant find it anywhere

Look at this link, specific to an '03 4.4:

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.4i Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

[DimAciD]

thank you!

Update:
After worrying for last couple of weeks about condensation build up, pulling out dip stick and seeing oil almost white aand i changed oil 3 weeks ago. I finaly took it to my friend (bmw technician) he checked hoses - brand new, someone changed them before me, oil was clear too
He told me to avoid problems i have to drive it! More than my wife does(10 minutes, twice a day), atleast once a week, put something like 100 kms and all condensation will be gone!
So for 15$ a week - i think it is reasonable to avoid all the issues with CCV
I am surpriced that i didnt have this issue last winter, it was cold one too, as low as -40C
He also mentioned that there is a permanent sollution but - 40 labour hours! 5000$ and your X5 will never have issues with condensation
It won't be me getting this fix for sure. It requires something added to engine, which reqiures engine to be taken appart

[jayhawker]

I have a 2005 Range Rover HSE that has the BMW 4.4 liter motor and believe is the same as in some of the X5's. A few months ago, after it was warmed up, I would start getting a blue cloud out the exhaust. I immediately knew it had something to do with the crankcase ventilation and took it to have it worked on at the Range Rover dealer. It didn't show a problem for them and so they did nothing. It would only happen when it was warmed up and so it didn't show for them.

A few days later, the blue cloud was so bad you couldn't see anything behind you and it was thick. I knew I had a problem, and was going to replace the oil separator kit. On the way home, I stopped at a hardware store, I started it when coming out and it idled fine for a short time and then blue smoke and it stopped in an instant with hydraulic lock. I removed the plugs and they were soiled with oil, lots of oil.

Trying to crank the engine it won't move. Even manually with a crowbar it won't move and so I am very confident a rod is bent wedged up against the bottom of a cylinder. I believe it is the furthest back cylinder on the passenger side of the car since it is closest to the top of the cylinder head when measuring through the spark plug hole.

I am in the process of trying to repair it, with the belief since it was at idle, the only problem will be a bent rod. So I am hopeful I can just replace it and the oil separator kit, and be back in business.

My question is this. Is there any possible way I can replace the rod from the bottom. I would like to do so without even having to drop the crank shaft hoping that disconnecting the rod on the piston, and having the crankshaft rotated maximizing the distance between it and the base of the piston will give me enough room to remove the piston pin for the rod and then remove it. Replace the rod with a new piston pin, connect it to the crankshaft and be on my way.

Is that possible with these engines?

I am being told I will have to remove the intake manifold, head, and timing chain to do this work. that the rod will have to come out through the cylinder. Is that true?

Last question. I believe it would be less hassle to drop the crankshaft and do it from the bottom. But I am interested in what others know about these engines. It has been 35 years since I overhauled an engine, and it wasn't a BMW engine.