|
||||||||
| Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring.... |
| Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
Successful Brake DIY! Thanks!
BMW X5 Complete Brake Job DIY - X5world Here are my learnings: -having all the right tools is critical, read the tool list in the DIY and make sure you have everything before you start! -make sure you have a proper shop jack and stands -The DIY explains that you can't physically access both guide bolts when doing the rears, but seems to inply that you should take out the one you can reach. I can't see the point. Leave them both in. You have to remove the whole carrier using a 16mm socket (which I didn't have but learned that a 5/8" fits perfectly). -I used anti-squeal grease on the back sides and ears of the pads. Not sure if I needed it but no squeals! -Dirty job. Have a box of blue nitrile gloves handy. -The Zeckhausen bed-in procedure was followed and seemed to work. Thanks again. The DIY saved me a few bucks, but more importantly, taught me alot about brakes and my X5. It also left me with a real sense of accomplishment! |
| Sponsored Links | |
|
|
|
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
congrats. oil changes and plugs are a breeze too!!
|
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Seabass,
Are you saying that for the rear, just remove the whole carrier with caliper intact, swing out the entire assembly, then remove the guide bolts? Or can you access the pad with the caliper still attached to the carrier, thus, avoiding guide bolts removal? |
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
dkl, I removed the whole rear carrier/caliper assembly. This gave me full access to the pads for replacement without touching the guide bolts at all. It took some penetrating oil and a rubber mallet to loosen these bolts but it wasn't too terribly difficult.
|
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Haven't done the X5's brakes myself yet, but on all the other BMW's I worked on, there was always more of an access problem on the rears and not the fronts.
|
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
|
Not sure what the issue is. On my E53, when I did the rear brakes I took out both guide bolts, and then removed the carrier so I could change the rotors. It was easier to have it all apart to clean it.
__________________
2007 X3 3.0si, 6 MT, Premium, White Retired: 2008 535i, 6 MT, M Sport, Premium, Space Grey 2003 X5 3.0 Steptronic, Premium, Titanium Silver 2002 325xi 5 MT, Steel Grey 2004 Z4 3.0 Premium, Sport, SMG, Maldives Blue |
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
dkl, on the fronts, I think it is easier to just remove the guide bolts. They aren't torqued nearly as tight as the carrier bolts so they are much easier to remove. Plus, by leaving the carrier behind, you only have to deal with the weight of the caliper. The front caliper is big, add the weight of the carrier and it will be harder to work with (plus, more risk of dropping it and damaging the brake hose).
Honestly, can't say if JCL is right about being able to remove both guide bolts in the rear. I was following the DIY and didn't even attempt it. I guess I should have tried rather than fighting with the carrier bolts. |
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
|
|