Help KEY Stop working.

[Bartek]

Help my remoute control Key Stop working.

[RichiRich]

I just went through this.....slowly but surely it would take longer and longer to utilize the remote...i always thought it was battery related...as I had a key die before....

Then I tried this ....


<B>

Reprogramming Key Fob

To do this procedure you need to have one working key and one key that needs to be programmed.

1. with the both keys, get in the car and close all windows and doors.
2. Put working key into the ignition and turn to position 1 (the accessories should turn on)
3. turn the key back to position 0 and take key out of the ignition.
4. Using the working key, hold down the unlock button, press the Roundel (lock button) 3 times, and release the unlock button. Doors should lock and unlock.
5. With the new key, hold down the unlock button and press the Roundel (lock button) 3 times and let go of the unlock button. Doors should lock and unlock and you're done!!

Alternate procedure if above doesn't work or if you do not have a working remote:

1. Place key in the ignition and cycle back and forth between position 0 and position 1 five times very quickly
2. Remove the key from the ignition
3. While holding down the unlock button, press the lock button 3 times and then release the unlock button. The doors should lock and unlock to confirm the programming.
4. If you have another key to program then repeat step 3 for the additional remote(s). The doors should lock and unlock to confirm the programming.
5. Turn on ignition to finalize

</B>

Part number for replacement master key/remote: 66-12-6-955-750

Now the key is working back to normal.. opens and locks upon remote command....so far so good.

I did the second one as it is for only one key!

Rich

[rckstr111]

Totally awesome! This worked! You are the man!

[absentmathis]

Glad the initialize fixed yours, did not with my last two. To those who have opened a key, how did you do it? Like what tool? I ended up using a butter knife and really bougered up my e39 key, alhough battery placement did cure the issue.

[Qsilver7]

The new style (diamond shaped) keys are sealed. Thus to separate the two halves requires a tool that can cut thru the seal...and a butterknife is not the tool for that. You need something like an X-Acto knive or razor or utility knive...something SHARP. You also need to be very careful because if you gouge too far into the key case...you can also damage some of the small stuff on the IC board inside the key...or damage the coil and/or antenna which is also attached to the IC board. Damaging these small things can ultimately render the key or some of it's functions useless.

There are 3 features/systems designed into the remote key...all separate but work in conjunction with each other:

• EWS - immobilizing system
• FZV - central locking system
• DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system

You will also need something to reseal the key once you have cut it open...there is no mechanism that will keep the two halves together once the key has been separated into two halves.

Just to clarify the INCORRECT information in post #2 (which is from way back in 2009)...the first instructions are actually correct BUT does NOT require a working key and a new unprogrammed key...thus the "alternate" instructions where you have to turn the key FIVE times in the ignition is probably unnecessary.

See the instruction below from BMW...and not instructions that have been floated around the internet for decades that have been altered as it's been written and rewritten many times over.

The important thing is...if you have multiple remote keys...ALL of them must be present when you reinitialize...because the remote key that is not present and not reprogrammed...will NO LONGER lock/unlock & arm/disarm your vehicle (until you reprogram ALL of your remotes in the same session).

[mrbmwx5]

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...y-fob-e53.html

[rckstr111]

I did have to use some finesse to make it work. The simple solution was unsuccessful. I did the position 1 to position 0 about ten times then held the unlock button, followed by pressing the lock button 3 times SLOWLY. After that the truck locked and unlocked itself.

It did give me somewhat of a scare at first though. The first try disabled my only working key. I was able to reprogram both of them though. Good luck

[absentmathis]

Thanks guys. I actually tried cutting it with an exacto knife first but must not have been thorough enough. Mrbmw, curious why you chiseled out the battery opposed to just unsoldering the contacts?

On another note, I've always been skeptical about the recharging. Do we really think these cars have inductive charging in the steering column? I've never seen a charging unit anywhere.

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by absentmathis

On another note, I've always been skeptical about the recharging. Do we really think these cars have inductive charging in the steering column? I've never seen a charging unit anywhere.

The Ring Antenna (around the ignition) and the inductive coil (inside the key)...are the "charging unit" that charges the battery inside the key which then powers the FZV/DWA features of the key. (see "H" in the previous post which shows the location of the charging coil inside the key...and you can also see the charging coil in pic below)

There's a Ring Antenna around the ignition cylinder...it was initially part of the EWS II system, in the old style keys (starting with BMWs with build dates of 1/1995)...the Ring Antenna was sent a 125 KHz signal from the EWS control module which then thru induction would power up the EWS transponder inside the key. This transponder would then send back the ISN (individual serial number) info to the EWS-CM & DME/ECU...and if the ISNs all matched...the car would be released to start.

With the introduction of EWS 3.2...the Transmitter Receiver's operation was incorporated into the EWS-CM...thus the trans/rev'r was dropped...and when the new style (diamond shaped) key was introduced. (9/99 build date-up)...the EWS transponder and battery were now soldered to the IC board inside the key...and now the Ring Antenna not only powers up the EWS transponder...but also powers the rechargeable battery inside the key.

(KL R = ignition position 1)

Your skepticism can be resolved if you ever get a chance to work on the steering column and notice the Ring Antenna (#7 in diagram below) around the ignition cylinder:

Hopefully the info above will help with your skepticism as to if induction is really incorporated into the BMW remote FZV keys. Again, there are THREE feature/systems incorporated into the remote keys. All three systems are independent systems...but do work in conjunction with each other:

1. EWS - immobilizing system
2. FZV - central locking system
3. DWA - anti-theft alarm siren system

[absentmathis]

And so it shall be. Good information.