Need some real-time opinions pls---this is ugly!!!

[JTis]

This morning I was helping a friend of mine replace the alternator on his 2000 4.4. He's not the most mechanically inclined, so I was trying to help him save $1000.

Anyway, the job was going smoothly, and I had the new alternator installed and was tightening up the bolts.....he wanted to help, so I let him step in to tighten up the remaining bolts-----big mistake. Next thing I know, I hear a giant "crack". He tightened it up wayyyy too tight, and I was really hoping he had just sheared off a bolt, but after I took everything back apart, I discovered he had actually cracked a piece out of the housing that the alternator fits into.

Long story short, I don't think this can be welded....if anyone disagrees let me know. Can someone look at this (pic one shows the broken housing, pic two shows the piece that broke off, and the last is the link to Realoem.....is the part listed as #1 in the diagram the part he is going to need? Thanks for any help, advice, or condolences.







RealOEM.com BMW E53 X5 4.4i LOWER TIMING CASE

[CharlieHustleX5]

Clean up the surfaces of both pieces, make sure they're dry, and JB weld them together. Let it dry and cure. Its worth a shot.

[chilliwilli]

My condolences...i suggest a new case

[asawadude]

Originally Posted by CharlieHustleX5

Clean up the surfaces of both pieces, make sure they're dry, and JB weld them together. Let it dry and cure. Its worth a shot.

+1. JB Weld is the only solution that wouldn't require dismantling the front engine cover. As CharlieHustleX5 said, it's worth a shot, especially for $6. That piece has to go on flush, otherwise the starter won't line up properly.

The housing can be welded, but it needs to be removed. I wouldn't attempt to weld inside an engine compartment - too many things to ignite. But it's a small crack and it should be easily fixed. It might have to be resurfaced and the hole retapped, both easily handled by a machine shop.

[JTis]

Thanks......somehow forgot about JB Weld.

Any tips or tricks for using it (other than the aforementioned "make sure the surfaces are clean and dry)?

Since this is a less than ideal situation, I'm going to have to try to "stick" the piece on as it sits....there's no real place for a clamp to be situated to hold this tight till it cures. How long do you guys think I should have to hold it in place until the JB Weld is set enough for the broken piece to avoid sagging downward?

[CharlieHustleX5]

Prior to repairing the broke piece, check to see if the bolt that goes through that piece will thread through without issues. It would be much easier to re-thread the hole, if it needed to, while the piece is still off the car

Be as precise as possible when mixing the steel and hardner. Too much of one substance will not allow the cold weld to cure correctly and to maximum strength.

Clean both sides well and apply the jb weld onto the case section where the piece broke off from. Use it liberally and whatever jb weld flushes out once you place the piece in, smear it on the outside section of the crack. Once you have it set in place, get masking tape and use a couple pieces to hold it in place. Then get yourself some duct tape and use it to secure the masking tape you already applied.

Let it dry and cure over night or until the following afternoon if possible. The more time you let it cure, the better the odds will be of it holding in place.

[jst2878]

wet sand the inside of the alternator carrier of the jb weld overspill. tighten the bolts to spec

[Weasel]

Just keep in mind this is in the cooling system and will have up to 15psi of hot water pressurizing it. So if you try the JB weld route just make sure to keep a close eye on it for seepage and pay attention in case it looses coolant. The only thing that makes that hard to weld normally is that it is cast aluminum... If it were forged it could be welded.

[JTis]

you guys are great.....thanks for all the suggestions and tricks. Hopefully this will save my buddy a lot of $$$ (and ease my conscience for letting him screw up). I'll let everyone know how it goes. Thanks again.

[JTis]

Sorry---one last question---obviously I'll be as precise as possible when doing this, but I am guessing that when done, there will be a very slight variation in the profile of the face of the carrier between the main casting and the broken piece. Given that, do you guys think it would be prudent to go a step beyond the standard o-ring seal and use some RTV silicone for a gasket like the guy did in the e38 forum DIY?