winter warm up

[powers1]

A bit late to this thread but my procedure for warming up all my cars has been the following:-
1.Start it and wait until the revs drop
2.Drive off and keep the revs below 2500 rpm (3.0 D) until engine reaches normal temperature.

Furthermore,on my X5s users manual it also states not to warm up the car by idling,but to drive off at moderate engine speeds

[Seabass]

Originally Posted by TheGodfather

Some severely cold and snowy weather just hit Calgary the past few days and the -20 to -30 degree temps will continue for a week.

This is the first winter the X is not being babied in a garage.

I am a little nervous after reading about this CCV moisture stuff.

I now have access to a garage (first night tonight), the X has not shown any issues after being outside for the past 4 days in -20 degree temps.

When I first start up in the morning its sounds pretty rough when I turn it on, and the exhaust is really loud and shaky sounding, this goes away after some time of driving.

Anyways, any suggestions? Am I probably safe from the CCV issues so long as I garage it this week?

The garage is your friend. I survived a solid week of -30°C temps last winter, until I left the X outside for about 6 hours. Started it up and.......$1800.

If you have access to a warm garage, it wouldn't hurt to pull off your engine cover and check your CCV valves. If there is no "gunk" in them, then you can probably relax. If they are full of gunk, clean them out, and pay close attention to outdoor temps and how long you park outside. I wrote a bit of a DIY last winter. You should be able to search it out.

[BMWLOVER]

Since I don't think the v8's have block heaters will having an oil pan heater help at all?

[diyanich]

Hi guys,there's a lower hose heater available from Canadian Tire it's got a thermostat built in,so it wouldn't boil the coolant.
I already asked my service adviser at our local dealer and he said that I would be the first one to add such a sing into the X as far as he recalls...anyway,he agried to do it at the dealer,obviously no warranty on the part...
The heater comes in 3 different diameters...here's the link:
ZeroStart™ Lower Radiator Hose Heater | Canadian Tire

What do you think?

It's nice to have a warm air blowing especially early morning,also it would help to reduce the gas usage as far as I understand,am I wrong?

[diyanich]

Service adviser at our local dealer said that oil pan blanket is gonna just boil the oil...not really good in his opinion and not really effective to warm up the block.
I've never used one ,so I don't know,but would like to hear from somebody who actually tried such a product.

Originally Posted by BMWLOVER

Since I don't think the v8's have block heaters will having an oil pan heater help at all?

[JCL]

I wouldn't bother with the heater on the rad hose, as it introduces new joints that could leak. Better to stay with an external heater IMO. There is no particular reason to heat the coolant, it is just that that is what immersion heaters used to do. Heating the block via the coolant isn't really the goal. What you want is to ensure that the oil flows on startup, and that is best achieved by heating the oil, not the block.

You will be one of the very few to do this modification, due simply to the fact that it isn't necessary. In Alaska, fine, it can be more necessary. At Calgary temperatures, you will get a relatively small number of very cold days. Just make sure you have 5-30 or 0-30 oil, and you will be fine.

While it may be nice to have warm air blowing, there is a reason that BMW offers heated seats and heated steering wheels. They are even nicer than warm air.

Fuel consumption will be higher until the engine is warm. You won't likely save enough on fuel to pay for the cost of running the heater, but I don't have proof of that, just an opinion.

An oil pan heater will not boil the oil, your service advisor has not used one. They are available in different wattages, and you need one for an 8 litre sump. If you put too much heat in there, it will be a waste, but you aren't likely to boil anything. Use a reasonable wattage, on a timer so that it is only on for an hour prior to your usual departure time.

We used these heaters for years on heavy duty diesels. Others have used them on the X5. Just realize that you don't really need one.

Also, the heaters aren't going to do anything about the crankcase ventilation valve freezing. It can freeze up while you are driving, and you aren't going to be plugged in then. The failure mode is as follows: Lots of short trips without fully warming the engine leads to a buildup of condensate in the oil. Condensate collects in the CCV over time. If you don't clean it out after a period of time (ie every season or two) it can build up a lot. Cold weather results in the condensate freezing, and if there is a lot there it can plug the valve. Then you have a pressurized crankcase, and you get an oil leak,usually by blowing out the valve cover gasket. A cold start (ie no preheat) isn't the problem, the condensate is the problem. The condensate results more from repeated short trips, not from cold starts.

Coincidentally, I am enroute to Edmonton on Friday (-35 forecast) and then Calgary on Saturday. Time to get the parka out.

[TheGodfather]

Originally Posted by JCL

A cold start (ie no preheat) isn't the problem, the condensate is the problem. The condensate results more from repeated short trips, not from cold starts.

Shit.

My daily drive to the Uni, is less than 10 minutes. My engine from start to finish is only running for 15 minutes from my house to the uni, then I turn it off and go to class and it sits for varying amounts of time, before I start it up again for yet another very short drive.

So what should I do? Should I deliberately take the longest route I can?

Also can anyone tell me how to specifically find and clean this CCV.
I had never even heard of the CCV until this thread.

[mrbmwx5]

Originally Posted by JCL

I wouldn't bother with the heater on the rad hose, as it introduces new joints that could leak. Better to stay with an external heater IMO. There is no particular reason to heat the coolant, it is just that that is what immersion heaters used to do. Heating the block via the coolant isn't really the goal. What you want is to ensure that the oil flows on startup, and that is best achieved by heating the oil, not the block.

You will be one of the very few to do this modification, due simply to the fact that it isn't necessary. In Alaska, fine, it can be more necessary. At Calgary temperatures, you will get a relatively small number of very cold days. Just make sure you have 5-30 or 0-30 oil, and you will be fine.

While it may be nice to have warm air blowing, there is a reason that BMW offers heated seats and heated steering wheels. They are even nicer than warm air.

Fuel consumption will be higher until the engine is warm. You won't likely save enough on fuel to pay for the cost of running the heater, but I don't have proof of that, just an opinion.

An oil pan heater will not boil the oil, your service advisor has not used one. They are available in different wattages, and you need one for an 8 litre sump. If you put too much heat in there, it will be a waste, but you aren't likely to boil anything. Use a reasonable wattage, on a timer so that it is only on for an hour prior to your usual departure time.

We used these heaters for years on heavy duty diesels. Others have used them on the X5. Just realize that you don't really need one.

Also, the heaters aren't going to do anything about the crankcase ventilation valve freezing. It can freeze up while you are driving, and you aren't going to be plugged in then. The failure mode is as follows: Lots of short trips without fully warming the engine leads to a buildup of condensate in the oil. Condensate collects in the CCV over time. If you don't clean it out after a period of time (ie every season or two) it can build up a lot. Cold weather results in the condensate freezing, and if there is a lot there it can plug the valve. Then you have a pressurized crankcase, and you get an oil leak,usually by blowing out the valve cover gasket. A cold start (ie no preheat) isn't the problem, the condensate is the problem. The condensate results more from repeated short trips, not from cold starts.


Coincidentally, I am enroute to Edmonton on Friday (-35 forecast) and then Calgary on Saturday. Time to get the parka out.

[BMWLOVER]

Originally Posted by JCL

I wouldn't bother with the heater on the rad hose, as it introduces new joints that could leak. Better to stay with an external heater IMO. There is no particular reason to heat the coolant, it is just that that is what immersion heaters used to do. Heating the block via the coolant isn't really the goal. What you want is to ensure that the oil flows on startup, and that is best achieved by heating the oil, not the block.

You will be one of the very few to do this modification, due simply to the fact that it isn't necessary. In Alaska, fine, it can be more necessary. At Calgary temperatures, you will get a relatively small number of very cold days. Just make sure you have 5-30 or 0-30 oil, and you will be fine.

While it may be nice to have warm air blowing, there is a reason that BMW offers heated seats and heated steering wheels. They are even nicer than warm air.

Fuel consumption will be higher until the engine is warm. You won't likely save enough on fuel to pay for the cost of running the heater, but I don't have proof of that, just an opinion.

An oil pan heater will not boil the oil, your service advisor has not used one. They are available in different wattages, and you need one for an 8 litre sump. If you put too much heat in there, it will be a waste, but you aren't likely to boil anything. Use a reasonable wattage, on a timer so that it is only on for an hour prior to your usual departure time.

We used these heaters for years on heavy duty diesels. Others have used them on the X5. Just realize that you don't really need one.

Also, the heaters aren't going to do anything about the crankcase ventilation valve freezing. It can freeze up while you are driving, and you aren't going to be plugged in then. The failure mode is as follows: Lots of short trips without fully warming the engine leads to a buildup of condensate in the oil. Condensate collects in the CCV over time. If you don't clean it out after a period of time (ie every season or two) it can build up a lot. Cold weather results in the condensate freezing, and if there is a lot there it can plug the valve. Then you have a pressurized crankcase, and you get an oil leak,usually by blowing out the valve cover gasket. A cold start (ie no preheat) isn't the problem, the condensate is the problem. The condensate results more from repeated short trips, not from cold starts.

Coincidentally, I am enroute to Edmonton on Friday (-35 forecast) and then Calgary on Saturday. Time to get the parka out.

Thanks! That helped a lot!

[BMWLOVER]

Originally Posted by TheGodfather

Shit.

My daily drive to the Uni, is less than 10 minutes. My engine from start to finish is only running for 15 minutes from my house to the uni, then I turn it off and go to class and it sits for varying amounts of time, before I start it up again for yet another very short drive.

So what should I do? Should I deliberately take the longest route I can?

Also can anyone tell me how to specifically find and clean this CCV.
I had never even heard of the CCV until this thread.

I think this might help

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...-pictures.html