Aftermarket Amps with stock Non-DSP head unit

[malcris]

Hello All,
I'm in the process of performing a complete gut job to the stock radio system in my 2003 X 3.0 and I had a couple of questions regarding some of the wiring. I've seen the other threads regarding pin out assignments and the like but I'm wondering if anyone has removed the stock amp completely. I have purchased a LOC/DSP unit from Rockford Fosgate, the 3sixty.2 to convert the signal from the head unit to a pre-amp signal that I can send to my aftermarket amplifiers. I was wondering if the stock amp is in any way connected to the AM/FM tuner module in the spare tire well, or if it is connected to any other vital vehicle systems. Also, will i loose the speed sensitive volume control? Any Help is appreciated.

Here's the new equipment list.
DLS iridium 6.3 (3 way component speakers for the front)
DLS Iridium 6.2 (2 way component speakers for the rear)
Jl Audio 10w6v2d4 subwoofer (custom fiberglass enclosure to fit in the cargo hold, drivers side-still under construction will post pic's when done.)
for power,
Jl Audio 500/1 monoblock for subwoofer

For Cabin speakers I've got a couple of different amp's I may use
PPI ART series A404.2x
Xtant A4004
Xtant A2002

Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 Line Output Converter/DSP
BTW this piece is really cool, it lets you tune the system via a bluetooth connection to a laptop.

[admranger]

Try asking in BSW's Mobile Electronics Forum here.

If no responses, try BimmerForums audio forum. Some real knowledgeable people there too.

[malcris]

Tried BSW, they really didn't know...But I'll definitely check out BF audio forums. Thanks...

[wullaby]

Not sure why u would keep the factory head unit, if you want the best sound coming out of your amps, u should replace the head unit. The head unit or LOC is the weakest link in your sound system, and your sound system can only be as good as your weakest link. There is no need to remove the stock amp completely, I have left mine in there, and bypassed it, only using the remote turn on for the 2 amps.

[malcris]

I like the factory look so I'm going to keep it. My question relates to the fm tuner module and If I remove the factory amp will I still have use of it. I've purchased a LOC with summing, dsp, crossover, and eq capabilities so I'm not worried about the sound as I can compensate via extensive tuning.

[wullaby]

I know that after installing a new head unit I obviously didn't have steering wheel volume controls, i did have the option to get a PAC converter thru crutchfield that would allow me to keep my volume controls with my new radio. But I hardly ever control the volume thru my steering wheel and didn't want to spend the extra money.
Why don't you leave everything in place and hook up ur LOC and one amp to see if it works still, if so, then go ahead and run and set it in place. I mean don't tuck the wires just run them thru the the inside of the car without pulling up the trim etc and do a "quick test". That is one option if you can't get answer soon.

[malcris]

thanks, that's a good idea... Unfortunately my loc requires a lot of setup and that's kind of not an option. I've got a Rockford 3sixty.2 which requires a full programing via a laptop before it is operational. Maybe I'll just grab a cheepo loc for the time being and try it out.

Thanks...

[wullaby]

By the way I have the premiumo sound system with 8 speakers and 2 subs. I removed the factory subs which should be plenty of room to put 2 amps on the passenger rear compartment. and leave the factory amp in and put your other amp in above it on the drivers side rear compartment. So technically you would have 3 amps plus the factory amp. Unless of course your amps aren't going to fit and you need the room and maybe that's why your considering removing the factory amp?

[wullaby]

Does any of your amp have a hi/lo output plug you could just tap into the speaker line to test out?

[malcris]

Yeah they won't fit.....I put my sub amp in the Pass compartment and my amps to power the cabin spkrs in the tire well. My enclosure is only in the Layup stage but I removed the plastic piece with the 10mm plastic nuts (below the spare tire cover) and molded the enclosure to fit in that space as well as the cargo hold. I've got approx 0.8 cu ft on the Driver's side. Tried the pass side and could only get about .6 cu ft. My sub needs at least .65 JL 10w6v2d4. The only problem is that i need to have the factory amp removed to make it fit there....I'll let you know how it works out when it's done. Kind of cold up here in boston right now so completing the fiberglass work is kind of a pain...curing very slowwww.....