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  #11  
Old 03-29-2010, 08:25 PM
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Sticky thermostat...I would definitely change out before summer, engine overheating can lead to serious complications over the long run...
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  #12  
Old 03-31-2010, 03:25 PM
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I just replaced my thermostat on sat its not that hard of a job heres a quick breakdown. you have to remove undercarriage cover up front makes for easier removal of antifreeze. remove plastic radiator cover on top of radiator. for easier acess you can remove air box hose I think 6mm socket or screwdiver. remove one hose on thermostat an clamp it back or you lose even more antifreeze. unplug sensor, then there are 3 bolts holding in thermostat an they are on angle I used 10 mm socket for those this a abit of a pia but slow and steady gets it done. it takes a little finesse to remove thermostat from housing i used a screwdriver to pry a little i mean a little you dont want to f it up but once removed watch out antifreeze comes out fast. replace in reverse order just make sure when replacing the hose back onto the thermostat that you hear a click. also when replacing antifreeze that you purge the air by removing the little plactic valve on the filler housing. I did this on a cold engine makes life much easier just remember to check your level after the first full heat cycle an replace to proper level. OOh yeah the reason why I replace was I was getting a code for thermostat mechanics it never deviated from center but didnt want it to get stuck closed.
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  #13  
Old 03-31-2010, 03:58 PM
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Either way...once the car is properly warmed up (driving for 15 mins at least) that needle should read dead center 12 oclock..doesnt matter if you're on the highway, city roads, whatever...at 67k you should replace your tstat anyway..you'll have to soon so you mind as well do it now..
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  #14  
Old 03-31-2010, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primetime View Post
Either way...once the car is properly warmed up (driving for 15 mins at least) that needle should read dead center 12 oclock..doesnt matter if you're on the highway, city roads, whatever...at 67k you should replace your tstat anyway..you'll have to soon so you mind as well do it now..

I think mine takes at least 25-30 min to heat to operating temp.. Which is in the area of 78-88... 88 when applying some gas, and 77-78 when rolling slightly downhill... This is in 3-4 dgrees celsius..

Okey thermostat.?


I'd appreciate a lot if others would post the operating temps they experience, and maybe also approx. how long it takes to reach it...

And i think bgsquad would be happy too..
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  #15  
Old 03-31-2010, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by primetime View Post
Either way...once the car is properly warmed up...that needle should read dead center 12 oclock..doesnt matter if you're on the highway, city roads, whatever...
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  #16  
Old 03-31-2010, 10:06 PM
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Can anyone explain why the temp needle on my 2005 4.8is (I'm in Manila but I imported this car from San Francisco last September) sits at 12:01 - 12:02 (on the warmer side)? It never gets past that though. Is this normal? My brother in law has a Euro version E36 320i here in Manila and his temp sits at the same spot. My other brother in law's 2001 X5 4.4 (Dubai version) has his temp sitting at dead center. Are there cold and hot thermostats?

Thanks!
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  #17  
Old 03-31-2010, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by phildg2000 View Post
Can anyone explain why the temp needle on my 2005 4.8is (I'm in Manila but I imported this car from San Francisco last September) sits at 12:01 - 12:02 (on the warmer side)? It never gets past that though. Is this normal? My brother in law has a Euro version E36 320i here in Manila and his temp sits at the same spot. My other brother in law's 2001 X5 4.4 (Dubai version) has his temp sitting at dead center. Are there cold and hot thermostats?

Thanks!
You can buy different thermostats to run at different temperatures.

I wouldn't worry about a tiny difference between 12:00 in one car and 12:02 in another car. It seems to me like BMW's temp gauges are just set to stay right in the middle and don't fluctuate much unless there is an issue. The only time mine moves (in any of my BMW's) is when the car is heating up to normal operating temp or if there is a major issue. If yours is close to straight up and down and remains constant, there is probably nothing to worry about. Even if it is 11:58 to 12:02 or something like that.
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Last edited by FSETH; 03-31-2010 at 10:33 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-31-2010, 10:28 PM
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Thanks FSETH. I was beginning to think I needed a lower temp thermostat. I remember changing the thermostat in my old Mercedes W123 to a 'cooler' one.
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  #19  
Old 09-15-2011, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmerfan4life View Post
I just replaced my thermostat on sat its not that hard of a job heres a quick breakdown. you have to remove undercarriage cover up front makes for easier removal of antifreeze. remove plastic radiator cover on top of radiator. for easier acess you can remove air box hose I think 6mm socket or screwdiver. remove one hose on thermostat an clamp it back or you lose even more antifreeze. unplug sensor, then there are 3 bolts holding in thermostat an they are on angle I used 10 mm socket for those this a abit of a pia but slow and steady gets it done. it takes a little finesse to remove thermostat from housing i used a screwdriver to pry a little i mean a little you dont want to f it up but once removed watch out antifreeze comes out fast. replace in reverse order just make sure when replacing the hose back onto the thermostat that you hear a click. also when replacing antifreeze that you purge the air by removing the little plactic valve on the filler housing. I did this on a cold engine makes life much easier just remember to check your level after the first full heat cycle an replace to proper level. OOh yeah the reason why I replace was I was getting a code for thermostat mechanics it never deviated from center but didnt want it to get stuck closed.

What engine do you have in your X5. You mentioned that their were only three bolts, holding the thermostat to the water pump housing
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