2 Amp parasitic draw after work on window motor?

[AUSyTyIN]

2003 4.4L, fully loaded.

So I had to change out the plastic clips for the window lift two days ago, and ever since I have had a parasitic draw on my battery. I left a charger on it over night. It started the night at 3.5 amp draw (before the electronics had gone to sleep) and at 12.5V (measured before hooking up the charger). In the morning it was still pulling just over 2 Amps, and measured 12.9V (charger removed). I removed the changer to go to work, and my wife tried starting it 5 hours later, and "click-click" was all she got.

It was an original battery, so I changed that out. The plastic that the positive terminal mounts on was visibly distorted (have you ever seen a frozen battery?) and the cell closest to it was 1/5th of the way down on fluid (could've been from me tipping it to get it out?). Anyways, the new battery is pulling the same Amps that the old one was, so that didn't fix it.

Not sure if it matters, but I did try to jump start it a few days ago via the truck (it was in the middle of our 2 car garage, and I didn't want to push it out of the garage up hill). That didn't work, so I ended up having to push it out and jump it underhood.

[AUSyTyIN]

Update, I just pulled all of the fuses in the glove box and in the trunk, and it still is pulling 2+ Amps. WTF??

[Weasel]

See if the ac/heater fan is still blowing a bit as the final stage resistor is one of the common causes for draw, also unplug the AUX fan in front just as something else to check, and even bad diodes/voltage rectifier in the alternator can sometimes cause draw. Check in the left rear panel for any signs of moisture/wetness at all because I've seen where a sunroof drain leak dripped water directly on to amp, TCU or even unused plugs and caused internal corrosion between the pins causing a draw.

Parasitic draws can be really hard to find, especially if it isn't on a fused circuit. Sometimes you just gotta start from the battery and follow the draw all the way up to the component with an amperage clamp. Something like this costs the same as 1 hour diagnosis and will allow you to do this kind of diagnosis yourself anytime needed. (the inductive amp clamp lets you check any wire/circuit easily without hooking up in line)

[AUSyTyIN]

I already checked to see if it was the FSR, but that's not it.

[Weasel]

Well, when it isn't any of the usual suspects all you can do is track it down... what kind of setup are you using to measure the amperage?