Oil Change - Car not happy when hot

rb0135 · #1 10-21-2010, 03:25 AM

Hi All,

X5, 3.0d

I changed my oil about 6-8 weeks ago, and I am finding that the car seems to lack power when the oil/engine is at normal running temperature. It is perfect when the oil/engine is cold/warming up.

This is probably a stupid idea, but could the the oil "hinder" the turbo in some way, does this sound feasible.

Someone has suggested to look at the Oil Breather/Seperator filter as they had a similar issue. Once they change the Oil Breather filter, they had the power back when the engine was at normal operating temperature.

I used Castrol Edge Sport 0W40 oil, which was the recommended oil in the book at the Car shop where I got the oil. I also changed the oil filter with a genuine BMW filter.

I have bought a new complete oil seperator unit (the cars done 90000km) just for piece of mind, and was told it is a 10 minute job.. Well, looks like 10 minute job when you spend 50 minutes pulling the plastic housings off everything to get to it.

Anyway, could this oil be too thick when engine is hot/running temperature. The temps in Sydney, usually dont go below 10C and averages high 20C in summer (with some hot days of course and we are going into the Summer Season now).

Should I be using 5W30 instead?

I have checked for codes and there are none registered.

Sorry, for the questions on oil, but this is a specific issue that occured after the Oil Change.

Thanks all,
Rob

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JCL · #2 10-21-2010, 01:02 PM

Your oil selection is unlikely to cause any such issues.

If there is a difference in operation after a service, it usually indicates that a vacuum line or such was disturbed. I would start there.

rb0135 · #3 10-21-2010, 04:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCL

Your oil selection is unlikely to cause any such issues.

If there is a difference in operation after a service, it usually indicates that a vacuum line or such was disturbed. I would start there.

Thanks for the reply.

As mentioned I did the service and went nowhere near any pipes, although I have gone over all of it to make sure.

Also, if the vacuum was an issue, I would expect the problem all the time, not only when the car is at running temperature.

It is perfect when cold/warming up.

Rob

admranger · #4 10-22-2010, 01:25 PM

I'm with JCL here. It's a classic Occam's chainsaw type situation: when other possibilities have been removed, don a goalie mask and get a chainsaw to solve your problems. Something like that.

In other words: dude, it ain't the oil. You did something during the oil change process or some random part failed precisely at the same time as you doing an oil change (in which case you are a very unlucky guy).

Start closely checking all hoses, electrical connections (clean, dry, connected), etc., etc.

rb0135 · #5 10-22-2010, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by admranger

I'm with JCL here. It's a classic Occam's chainsaw type situation: when other possibilities have been removed, don a goalie mask and get a chainsaw to solve your problems. Something like that.

In other words: dude, it ain't the oil. You did something during the oil change process or some random part failed precisely at the same time as you doing an oil change (in which case you are a very unlucky guy).

Start closely checking all hoses, electrical connections (clean, dry, connected), etc., etc.

Hi.

Please dont think I am disputing what people say, as i have asked for help.

I am just trying to get my head around why it only happens when the oil/engine is at operating temperature.

Unlucky, yep, thats my middle name.. Doesnt matter what car I will buy, I get the lemon.

Because on Monday, the Sunroof died where the rear wouldnt close. looks like I wont be using that anymore.

Ok, so by the sounds of it, the oil is Ok (it was the recommended one).

I have triple checked all connections in and around the oil filter (as that is the only part I touched on top of the engine, and there are no holes, and everything is secure..

Of well, looks like I'll take it to a "proper" Diesel Engine specialist.. (not these BMW service departments where the trainees look over it).

I'll report back any findings.

Rob

rb0135 · #6 10-28-2010, 03:39 AM

Just an update:

i have replaced the Oil Seperator and it fix two issues I was having, smoking at startup and when I put my foot down..

BUT, it is still under powered when the oil/engine has been at operating temperature for a while. As I said, when the oil is cold, it has all the power.

Now, I know for a fact I never bumped any connectors or hoses, and if I did, then I was in the wrong place when changing the oil. However, just to please the masses, I have spent 5 hours going over every plug/hose and they are all 100%.

So, has anyone got any idea what I should look at next? I still say it is the oil, and will be changing it to 5W30 in a few days, but I am still interested in people that actually know about diesels as to what it might be.

Anyone?

panorama · #7 10-28-2010, 04:08 AM

As a fellow diesel owner, I await the outcome of your investigations, and whether this change of oil fixes yourproblem?

powers1 · #8 10-28-2010, 04:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rb0135

Just an update:

i have replaced the Oil Seperator and it fix two issues I was having, smoking at startup and when I put my foot down..

BUT, it is still under powered when the oil/engine has been at operating temperature for a while. As I said, when the oil is cold, it has all the power.

Now, I know for a fact I never bumped any connectors or hoses, and if I did, then I was in the wrong place when changing the oil. However, just to please the masses, I have spent 5 hours going over every plug/hose and they are all 100%.

So, has anyone got any idea what I should look at next? I still say it is the oil, and will be changing it to 5W30 in a few days, but I am still interested in people that actually know about diesels as to what it might be.

Anyone?

Hi Rob,
I have to go with the others and say your problem is not related to oil spec.

You say you dont have any error codes!What code reader did you use?A Bmw diag machine will pick up error codes that a normal code reader cant!
The Ecu will richen the mixture when engine is cold and after warmed up,it will cut it back to normal(you will notice this with the idling speed variation).
You seem to have a temperatures sensor issue or a fuel pressure issue...

rb0135 · #9 10-28-2010, 04:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by powers1

Hi Rob,
I have to go with the others and say your problem is not related to oil spec.

You say you dont have any error codes!What code reader did you use?A Bmw diag machine will pick up error codes that a normal code reader cant!
The Ecu will richen the mixture when engine is cold and after warmed up,it will cut it back to normal(you will notice this with the idling speed variation).
You seem to have a temperatures sensor issue or a fuel pressure issue...

Powers1, hello again.

I have DIS Software with the Yellow Head Diagnostic unit. There are no code/faults showing through this system.

The problem has only happened when the oil was changed. Yes, I am familiar with coincidences...

I have put through some injector cleaner in case it was the injectors. No difference.

The exact issue is this (I hope i can explain it).
Accelerating from say a stop, or turning it to a street, it seems to rev ok and pickup speed, but without moving the foot off the accelerator, the revs start to come down (slowly) and so does the instant L/100KM needle and then when it changes gear, it seems there is no power there and you get a lunge forward, then it picks up speed again, but it just doesnt have the power and if anything, doesnt sound the throaty diesel it is. It seems the longer you drive the worse it is. For instance, within the first 20-30 minutes (city driving) it is OK, then gets progressively worse. There is NO exhaust evident when accelerating (like if it wasnt getting enough air, but as you know, I just changed the Air Filter).

I think thats the best way i can explain it.

I havent noticed any increase or decrease in fuel consumption. This oil has been in for 3000KM now, and I havent even need to add any oil. it is still "just below" the full mark, with correct testing (10 mins after driving it).

I know I keep coming back to this, but it was perfect before the oil change. I thought the 0W40 might be too heavy when hot for the turbo to function properly (restricting it somehow), but I dont know enough about Diesels or Turbo's.

If i take it to a specialist, they will just want to replace the Turbo saying it is at fault, and I dont want to be throwing dollars after dollars for them to find the issue.

Rob

Lookin4Trouble · #10 10-28-2010, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rb0135

Powers1, hello again.
The exact issue is this (I hope i can explain it).
Accelerating from say a stop, or turning it to a street, it seems to rev ok and pickup speed, but without moving the foot off the accelerator, the revs start to come down (slowly) and so does the instant L/100KM needle and then when it changes gear, it seems there is no power there and you get a lunge forward, then it picks up speed again

Edited for brevity. Sounds a lot like the problems others here with gas engines have solved by replacing spark plugs - check your glow plugs, maybe? Just throwing things out there, my spark plugs are waiting for me at home for this Saturday, hopefully I can finally be rid of the lurch...

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