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#1
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Burned up exhaust valve - what are my options?
So the question is do I do a valve job on it or just swap the entire engine? Also do I do it myself or pay someone? I've built engines before but not an m54. I have no concerns about my ability but from what I have read these are time consuming to do a head on and often times the block gets damaged when torqueing. Any opinions on this would very much be appreciated!
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2004 e53 m54 with 6spd manual |
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#2
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Good day!!
While I think you will get as many answers as the number of people you ask, I personally would do the head job on the current engine, UNLESS you need it back on the road ASAP or sooner... In that case, I would just swap the motor after making sure the new motor is good to go and ready to start up after you connect the power to it... I have never done the 3.0 M54 motor, but I'm guessing if done carefully, the block will handle the torquing sequence... I add steps in my sequence that most don't... Initial torque of say, generally 33 ft/lbs is done in the proper order three times... Then I go to steps two and then three... I've discovered the initial torque is not distributed evenly over all 10 or 12 head bolts doing one pass... I'm sure I will be doing an M54 rebuild soon enough... My son has a 2003 330i that is just begging to produce more power... I think he is wanting it to produce more power, not really the car's idea... Good luck!!! Cheers!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny) 2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red) 2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II) 2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless) BMWCCA member (#4745) |
#3
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Yeah, it stands to reason that if I am careful with torqueing it would be okay. I can understand that on an aluminum engine if you overheat it you end up with a lot of differential expansion between the aluminum block and the steel bolts so you overload the threads from the get go.
Before I make a definite decision I need to either borescope the #2 cylinder or do a leak down test and verify that it is the valve that is burned. Again it stands to reason that I overheated the valve from running very lean (at least that is the most likely case) but I want to make sure that that cylinder and pistons/rings are fine before going at the head and also that I didn't throw a chunk of the valve in the cylinder and bang anything up. As of now my plan is that if it looks like it is just the valves amiss I'll do the head job and if there is any damage to the pistons and block I'll swap the engine.
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2004 e53 m54 with 6spd manual |
#4
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Unless you have something else wrong with your engine I would do the valve job. Did you do a leak down test to verify that it is an exhaust valve that is burnt? At this point it doesn't matter, not unless you have broken rings which can also cause low compression. Broken rings is a lot more involved as it requires the removal of the oil pan which requires the removal of the driveshaft that passes through the oil pan.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
#5
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Does anybody have the tools I can rent? The biggest problem is that I'd like to have them by Monday of next week because I think I can get everything else I need by then.
I haven't done a leak down test because I just moved across the country and half of my tools are back with my airplanes. I did the squirt some gear oil in the spark plug hole trick and that had no affect. I decided to just get at it last night as it would be faster than trying to chase down the tools where I live to actually diagnose it. I got the point where all I need to do is exhaust and the actual head bolts.
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2004 e53 m54 with 6spd manual |
#6
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- While there, you may as well refresh the Vanos Seals.
- How many miles in your X5 when the Exhaust Valve burned? I have a 1998 Volvo S70 GLT with 188K miles when the Exhaust Valve in cyl #3 burned, have not had time to fix the Volvo yet.
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
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