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Old 01-19-2011, 03:36 AM
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Question In Middle of Replacing Valley Pan, Any Advice?

I am in the middle of replacing the valley pan gasket. I just have gotten off the cover to the valley pan... WOW what a freaking trip. That was a long haul just to get to that thing. Anyways. I was wondering what else should I replace in this effort to Stop the coolant leak that I have.


I have already/Will be replacing

*Water pump
*Upper & Lower hoses
*Alternator
*O Rings for both sides of the two pipes front and back
*Valley Pan gasket
*Intake manifold Gaskets

What else usually goes bad after 100k with regards to the cooling system?

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Old 01-19-2011, 09:03 AM
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I usually remove the rear coolant accumulator (crosspipe) to get coolant tubes out instead of the waterpump. Mainly because it is harder to get to (intake removed + contortionist) and has gaskets that start leaking, and the waterpump has usually been changed by the time the valley pan leaks anyways.

Also, while the intake is off I'd change the rear cover of it as it houses the diaphragm for the crankcase breather/oil separator system which can rupture over the years, and you gotta have the intake off to change it too.
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weasel View Post
I usually remove the rear coolant accumulator (crosspipe) to get coolant tubes out instead of the waterpump. Mainly because it is harder to get to (intake removed + contortionist) and has gaskets that start leaking, and the waterpump has usually been changed by the time the valley pan leaks anyways.

Also, while the intake is off I'd change the rear cover of it as it houses the diaphragm for the crankcase breather/oil separator system which can rupture over the years, and you gotta have the intake off to change it too.
Can't agree more. I also replaced the two gaskets, one to the diaphragm and one to th ethrottle body, the original orange rubber gasket were so hard people on E38.org says they leak giving stuter cold idle.

Also why not replace the valve cover gasket, you have the fuel rails out already anyway.

BTW, I put a bit of blue loctite on the six bolts during the coolant manifold re-assembly, the coolant leaks was bigger on these area than my valley pan actually. Also when I take this off to get to the two coolant pipes that go to the WP, I hardly have to turn my socket wrench to loosen the bolts? wonder if vibration loosen them over time then it leaks.
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:11 AM
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Might as well do the oil separator if your rubber hoses are gummy
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Old 01-19-2011, 02:40 PM
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Thanks for all the help guys..
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