FAIL

[4.6toddy]

So last night i'm about half an hour from home and the battery (charging) warning light comes on. I continue to drive and it's on and off randomly....then on solid, then off for a while. Stopped, did my business and it fired up no problem to return home. The light stayed off until a few minutes from the house. No time to look, it's late.

This morning i get in, it fires up and the light comes back on. I live a mile from work so I head in. As i'm stopped in the drive-thru for morning coffee, all the other lights on the dash light up. emergency brake, traction control and I think ABS. So i'm thinking battery is dying, computer isn't reading as it should?!

i zip over to work and just as I pull into the parking lot a terrible THUD from the back, TRANS FAIL SAFE or whatever it says comes on the dash readout. Sit in the lot for a minute with it running, it starts to shake and die. Now it's dead, won't start

Before i start going too far am I reading the symptoms right?
charge light for a day....likely just a battery, alternator or possibly voltage regulator?

Is there even a replaceable voltage regulator?

Thanks for any help

[Naz24]

my first move would be to change the battery.. might fix all the problems. from there if it doesnt work, then you can start checking the alternator, etc.

[TEMA]

jump start it and check to voltage... if it only drains than most likely its the altenator

[admranger]

Battery and alternator can be checked at most auto parts stores for free. Don't just be a parts changer, diagnose first!

[z168]

Originally Posted by admranger

Battery and alternator can be checked at most auto parts stores for free. Don't just be a parts changer, diagnose first!

You need a scanner to read the trouble codes. Might answer your battery drain problem too

[imola38]

Your alternator has taken a crap. Get a proper diagnosis if you feel the need, but I can assure you thats what it is. The various lights on the dash are from the many control modules suffering from undervoltage (anything below 9v). Your battery has been sucked almost completely dead as well. If it's anything over 3-4 years old, change it anyway. If it's recent it will preobably be salvageable.

I'm guessing by your screen name you have a 4.6is. The water cooled alt is very expensive. You may be able to find a reman but I don't know much about the quality. Sorry for the bad luck

-Ben

[Bobby G]

Mine did the same thing last year. It was the alternator. I wasn't lucky enough to be close to home. 200 miles away. As luck would have it, my warranty expired a week before it happened. Cost me almost a grand to get it fixed and back home. Good luck.

[4.6toddy]

Either alternator or voltage regulator is what i've narrowed it down to.
I live in a small town, the local shop that i would trust with it is booked for two more weeks so it's going to a City close by with a Euro specialist.

BmW quoted me my jobber price of $1100 ouch just for the alternator. liquid cooled bugger

I have found an aftermarket version for $500 my cost that eases the pain a bit and its 2.3hrs flat rate. So i'm banking on $900-1000 by the time it's done.

Now just have to see if between the new battery and the old one which does hold a charge, if i can drive it 75km to the shop and avoid the flatbed .

4 months with the BMW
stranded it in the driveway twice with a dead battery
3 weeks in the body shop
now another week for alternator (died before a long weekend)

4 years and my Hummer never failed me once! What am I doing?

[TEMA]

your key has a rechargeable battery inside it take the car for drive that should do the trick. I told you that it was the alternator!!!!

[4.6toddy]

I took it for a good long rip last night to ensure the fix was completed correctly. Still no improvement on the key.
It was only down for 4 days, I don't understand how the key could go dead?!

i will take it for a good rip tonight to see if it helps

any other suggestions?