CV AXLE REPLACEMENT

[Isambard]

Hi All,

I'm looking to replace my left front CV axle in the near future as I've been getting 'those' clunks when turning slowly for a while now. Nothing major but I know its the outboard CV joint. I will be doing the RHS while I'm there also..

I'd like to get your feedback on whether or not its worth buying OEM from BMW on this important part? Or can I use aftermarket non-oem with the same performance coupled with reasonable life-span expectancy? and when I say reasonable I mean at least 2 years, with approx. 12000 miles per year, on flat, fairly good roads.

I have been looking at the following:

BMW X5 AXLES CV DRIVESHAFT DRIVE AXLE 01 02 03 04 05 06 | eBay

BMW Parts and BMW Accessories | Bavarian Autosport

BMW E53 X5 M62 4.4L > Drivetrain > Driveshaft > ES#251544 Axle Assembly - Front, Left (Drivers) - 31607565313

Whaddya guys think?

[faranks]

I replaced ours a year ago with a non OEM axle I got at the local auto parts store for about $70, it has worked great for about 15k miles, just inspected it the other day and it looked perfect.

If I were to choose between Ebay or ECS I would go ECS every time! They are very helpful, and actually have a reputation/customer support.

[Isambard]

Thanks faranks,

Did you only do the one side? Although I believe in 'don't fix it if it ain't broke', but I also believe in 'while you're there'.. So I was thinking I may as well do both sides as the car has 105k miles on it and I'm sure they'd be original axles.

Are there any 'special' tools required, or any pointers you can give? I'm a competent mechanic but have never changed a cv axle before so if you can give me a headsup on anything I'd appreciate it.

[Denis0331]

there is a key u need Steve installing an axle on a BMW 328iC - Westcoast Autobahn - YouTube but i did it without it because i am a man ..haha...just kidding..tomorrow after work i will post everything u need to diy..

[Isambard]

OK, thanks Denis

[civdiv99]

Paid $54 US plus a few bucks shipping for complete axle end-to-end from rockauto.com. Axle is a "Cardone," made in China of course. It fit great, still works great coming up on a year later, smooth at 100+ mph, etc. I'd forgotten all about it until I read your post. Dunno what you can access that's economically equivalent but I've been more than happy with the non-OEM parts I've installed - brakes, the axle - ('cause I let the torn boot go too long), suspension stuff, fluids, various odds and ends. I don't spend OEM $$ for anything unless there's no readily apparent option otherwise.

As far as the job goes - I did the passenger side in about 45 min on a floor jack. What I did was remove the thrust arm at its chassis front mounting bolt, the swing arm at its chassis mounting bolt, the ABS clip and connector, the caliper & pads as an assy and set it on a little block back out of the way but not under tension, the sway bar links (get more room thataway, too). Since replacing the entire axle which came with it's own stake nut, I just smacked the end of the axle out of the spindle, then removed the 2 strut bolts and set the whole spindle assy with arms and all aside. I suggest not being too awfully shy with the axle smacking - you'll be able to ramp up the hammer size and swing force until you see the axle begin to move, then that'll be good enough as it'll move a bit further each hit. Scoot under and pop the axle out of the front diff. There's a clip that comes with it. I used a large flat screwdriver on the inner part of the axle. One or 2 smacks with 16 oz hammer was enough to pop it free and I didn't pry on the aluminum surface with the seal (once under there you'll see how snug the gap is and so forth). to put in the new one I just slid it into place and shoved "moderately." If it doesn't snick into place, pull out until rotates and snick again. I didn't hammer on anything regarding the now one. Just a few wiggles and test shoves until the snap ring was apparently happy and in it went. Reassemble reverse of assembly. All good.

Oh, some may discuss the axle nut. I had the wife stomp on the brake pedal and I used a 6-sided "non-metric" socket (don't remember the size, but there is a common inch-size that fit it close enough to work well. I slipped on a 4' pipe over the life-time warranty breaker bar attached to said socket and it was a piece-of-cake. There's a torque spec when you reinstall. I used the sometimes widely accepted scientific process known as: "yep, that feels about right, stake'r down."

[vegasX5]

I've replaced 3 of my CVs using aftermarket units around $100 a piece including one that I did 4 years ago and still works great. It's a no brainer IMO for the cost/benefit.

[Isambard]

Vegas, I'm with you on the no-brainer, just wanted opinions from you guys who have done this. Thanks. Great to hear its lasted you that long, I hope you saying that hasn't now jinxed you!

Nice explanation civdiv, I had a fair idea the way you described it would be the case. Thank you for getting it onto 'paper' for me..

I'm just in the process of sourcing the CV axles, just depends on shipping costs. Shipping to Aus is extortionate at the best of times!

[Denis0331]

good post civdiv 99 its a (36mm 12pt) socket i got mine at Sears rest of the tools were purchased at napa u need something to cut the metal clamps that hold the boot i used a cutter wheel u can u can use pliers or your teeth whatever works make sure u have new clamps before u start the project..keep us posted with progress...its a easy job but if u never done it ..it could be little bit frustrating ....and like civdiv said i hope u have friends..or a wife to help u out...good luck

[Isambard]

Yeah got all the tools-just went and bought another wheel-puller which I typically gave away before I got to Aus 4 months ago! I like to travel light haha

Yep, will let you know how it goes, like I said, just waiting on the axles now... and yes I'm roping my mate in to give me a hand

Thanks for all the info and headsups guys, much appreciated