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  #11  
Old 01-05-2012, 12:56 PM
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My axle did not want to come out of the wheel hub, not even after hitting with a torch and my biggest hammer. I broke the wheel puller I had, using a long bolt and a impact gun, so what eventually worked for me was a air hammer. Came out like butter.
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2012, 02:08 AM
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One last question before I order all the parts-am I changing the axle seals also?
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  #13  
Old 01-12-2012, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by civdiv99 View Post

Oh, some may discuss the axle nut. I had the wife stomp on the brake pedal and I used a 6-sided "non-metric" socket (don't remember the size, but there is a common inch-size that fit it close enough to work well. I slipped on a 4' pipe over the life-time warranty breaker bar attached to said socket and it was a piece-of-cake. There's a torque spec when you reinstall. I used the sometimes widely accepted scientific process known as: "yep, that feels about right, stake'r down."
CivDiv, exactly what I do. It is very obvious when the CVJ "bottoms" on the back of the hub.

The socket you need is 36mm, possibly a 1 7/16" fits. An air wrench will make it way easier to back the nut off.
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  #14  
Old 02-21-2012, 06:35 PM
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I'm planning to change both my front axle assemblies as well. been doing a lot of research and it sounds like EMPI is the best aftermarkert vendor out there.

I addition to changing the seals on the transfercase, is there a need to change the transfer case oil as well? I assume there will be a gush of oil once I pull the entire shaft out.
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  #15  
Old 02-21-2012, 09:18 PM
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I think yer question is throwing me a curve......prolly a terminology thing. Jack up car, remove/move spindle assy as prefer/necessary, remove axle shaft assy in question, put replacement assy in place, reassemble. No gushing occurs here.

I dunno about the whole "best" discussion. I do know that several of us are running $60 (ish) complete "end-to-end" replacement axles without issue.

But changing the transfer case fluid, while not associated with the axle work, is a very straightforward process anyway.
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  #16  
Old 02-21-2012, 11:47 PM
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Obviously this is my first time on my X5. My mistake . . . I meant the differential . . . just thought that if I took out the axle assembly, then the fluid from the differential would leak out, which would require a refill or change (since I'm already under the car). Any thioughts?
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2012, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by civdiv99 View Post
Dunno what you can access that's economically equivalent but I've been more than happy with the non-OEM parts I've installed - brakes, the axle, suspension stuff, fluids, various odds and ends. I don't spend OEM $$ for anything unless there's no readily apparent option otherwise.
Yup, 100% agree
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  #18  
Old 07-28-2013, 07:58 AM
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Hooray! I don't have plates yet and I get to replace axles!

Thanks to everyone in this and the CV boot threads. I just ordered Autozone Duralast "Lifetime" axles. My passenger boot expired yesterday and painted the rim with grease.

I decided it made no sense to spend 100+ per side for four oem boots when for 127.77 I can have two new axles.

Thanks!
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  #19  
Old 07-29-2013, 02:47 PM
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Replaced both my fronts with rebuilt OEM axles. About $800 out the door from an independent. That was 167,000 miles back and I haven't had any problems since, but I always take a close look at those outer CV boots at every oil change or tire rotation.

2002 X5 3.0 236,000 miles
2004 325i 105,000 miles
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