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  #1  
Old 01-07-2012, 08:30 PM
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Bypassing Angel lights

I'm going to retrofit some 10W E90 Angel light globes to fit in the E53 and bypass the lighting system altogether by connecting them so that they are on whenever the key is in position 2.

Could someone who knows please advise me what I need to do with the park light harness to prevent it from brining up the "Check park lights" message when I do this. Do I simply need to bridge the two connections or does it need a resistance?

Or can I remove the warning completely through GT1?
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulk View Post
I'm going to retrofit some 10W E90 Angel light globes to fit in the E53 and bypass the lighting system altogether by connecting them so that they are on whenever the key is in position 2.

Could someone who knows please advise me what I need to do with the park light harness to prevent it from brining up the "Check park lights" message when I do this. Do I simply need to bridge the two connections or does it need a resistance?

Or can I remove the warning completely through GT1?

I've done exactly that to my 4.8is. I found the wire feeding the AE from the harness (reference in the DIY at the top of forum), and to keep the computer from giving an error in the dash, I installed a 200 ohms load resistor (one each side) between the AE feed wire and ground. If I remember, it was a power resistor (?10W) with a metal heat sinked body.

If you rewire the feed for your AE to turn ON with ignition at position 2, do like I did, feed 12V using a relay and a fuse direct from the 12V post under the hood. Some people here had problems using 12V directly from an already used circuit (without relay). To trigger the relay, I took the signal in the ECU box. At the ECU connector, there is one or two white and red wire(s). You can probe to be sure, but on my X, they were ON at position 2 and while the engine is running. When you turn the truck OFF, that signal will stay ON for a short period (10 seconds to 1 minutes) depending if the X still has things to do before completly turning OFF.
That's the same signal I used when I did my AE on my E46 and it worked well.
HTH.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo_Bimmer View Post
I've done exactly that to my 4.8is. I found the wire feeding the AE from the harness (reference in the DIY at the top of forum), and to keep the computer from giving an error in the dash, I installed a 200 ohms load resistor (one each side) between the AE feed wire and ground. If I remember, it was a power resistor (?10W) with a metal heat sinked body.

If you rewire the feed for your AE to turn ON with ignition at position 2, do like I did, feed 12V using a relay and a fuse direct from the 12V post under the hood. Some people here had problems using 12V directly from an already used circuit (without relay). To trigger the relay, I took the signal in the ECU box. At the ECU connector, there is one or two white and red wire(s). You can probe to be sure, but on my X, they were ON at position 2 and while the engine is running. When you turn the truck OFF, that signal will stay ON for a short period (10 seconds to 1 minutes) depending if the X still has things to do before completly turning OFF.
That's the same signal I used when I did my AE on my E46 and it worked well.
HTH.

Perfect Thankyou
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbo_Bimmer View Post
To trigger the relay, I took the signal in the ECU box
Any clues where I might find this on a 4.4 04?
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Bulk View Post
Any clues where I might find this on a 4.4 04?
The ECU box is located in the engine bay,on the right side, at the bottom of the windshield. You wil have to disassemble a part of the cabin filter cover to be able to access the ECU box cover. There are several allen head screws to remove.

I suggest you disconnect the negative terminal of your batterie first just to be safe and not shorting anything by accident.

Here is a link showing the install in a 3 serie. You can skip to 'Step 4' where they connect the trigger wire inside the ECU box.

On the picture, it shows a red/white with yellow stripes. I don't remember having yellow stripes on mine, but once in there, you will see those red/white wires are bigger than the rest of the signal wire.

Also, I suggest to skin and solder the wire connections instead of using crimp on devices. But, if done correctly (good size of crimp on for the corresponding wire gauge), there shouldn't be any problems.

FastM.com (2003.5 BMW M3) - DIY Guide for 60LED Angel Eye Kit
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