SOLVED - Engine Failsafe after Valve Cover Seal Replacement for Blue Smoke

[A B Able Truck]

I don't know the M62 but I assume there's no valvetronics. On the N62 - Check the hoses that go from your valve cover CCVs to the intake - are they cracked? Oil dipstick o-rings - are they sealing? Valve cover gaskets or anywhere are could reach the intake?

[diyanich]

M62 has only intake VANOS and no more other fancy stuff.
All the hoses you asked about are good.The dipstick o–ring is good too.

Originally Posted by A B Able Truck

I don't know the M62 but I assume there's no valvetronics. On the N62 - Check the hoses that go from your valve cover CCVs to the intake - are they cracked? Oil dipstick o-rings - are they sealing? Valve cover gaskets or anywhere are could reach the intake?

[McDonaldD]

Hi, it's hard to believe those posts were in 2013, time flies...

One oil leak-path I overlooked in my original posts (which has come back to give me grief) - The 4.4i and 4.8is engines has an oil cooler and the oil cooler's lines attach through the alternator's support bracket...which means there is an oil gasket between the alternator and the engine block. See #2 in the attached image from RealOEM:
02 Gasket 1 12317507808 $1.48


The work required to replace the seals in the upper motor almost certainly requires the loosening/disturbing the alternator bracket. If this bracket is disturbed, it will almost certainly become a leak. Replace, if disturbed, regardless of whether or not it was leaking before. If not replaced at this time, the gasket is guaranteed to start leaking as oil gaskets are not designed to be re-used. Unless the alternator bracket's oil seal is replaced (if disturbed), you'll likely continue to experience at least some of the symptoms (if not all of them).

[stiubhartach]

Interesting. Thanks for the update. Your thread is very good information.

[gaffinfool]

even down to the p115a code...

But, after checking, rechecking, and re-rechecking all of the sensors I touched, they are all plugged in, so I'm still searching...

05 X5 4.4


I made the mistake of not releasing the "tension" on the valvetronic servo when I removed it, and it popped out when I removed the 4 bolts. When I reinstalled it at the end of the job, I installed the servo by just screwing it back (turning the whole motor, not allen keying the shaft) into the VC until the surfaces met, the servo orientation was correct, so I screwed it down, and finished it up.

Hop in, did the key on, off, on, and fired it up. Idle is smooth, and in PARK, I can pretty much redline it and there are no issues - great throttle response, no extended high RPM's on the way back down - so I'm headed around the block for the first drive. Back it out, drop it in DRIVE, ease on the gas and now we're movin! High fives all around!!!

Ego kicks in because I have conquered this PITA job and I step on it, and the truck goes to bucking and hesitating. I also discovered I could drive it in manual, and as long as I keep the RPM's above 2k, I can't necessarily mash the gas to accelerate to pass, or go up a steep hill in higher gears, but I can get enough power out of it to run 70 down the highway with essentially no issues. But, I want to be able to mash the gas....

I did a LOT of research on the "go-go-gadget smokescreen" (I LOVE that term!) before deciding that this issue has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH VALVE SEALS (my vacuum leak was actually the upper timing chain cover / driver's side). I understand the workings of the VVT setup, and how it replaces the throttle body to control how much air enters the cylinders.

My current issue feels like a carb with a full choke. If I feather the pedal, I can get the engine to "come back". And, because of this feeling, and what I understand about the VVT, I'm wondering if I just need to remove and reinstall the servo, and try to set it correctly. It makes sense in my mind that the computer recognizes the request for acceleration, pumps more gas into the cylinders, and sends the signal to open the valves more for more air, but maybe because of how I installed the servo, it's just not able to open them up as much as it should be able to.


I found the instructions on pelican on the servo removal and install. I'm going to try reinstalling it, but I guess I'm asking, are there any other adjustments I need to make, other than unscrewing/screwing the servo shaft? I saw something in my searches where someone was talking about having to spin the gear on the eccentric shaft, and hold it, along with the servo while installing it. It wasn't on the N62, but for as much of a gearhead as I am, I'm still learning about this beautiful, over-engineered tank. Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree, and I should be looking elsewhere. I have tried to troubleshoot, but the only step I have taken so far is to unplug the newly replaced eccentric shaft sensor I so eloquently shattered when I was removing the VC, as I am really hoping I don't have to pull the VC off again. The issue remained.


TL;DR

If the valvetronic servo popped out when removing it during VCG job, are there extra steps above and beyond just screwing/unscrewing the servo shaft?

[armani78]

HI,

I Wish I read this thread all the way through before I did exactly the same missteps you described...

Did you fix it and how?

Thank you!

[gaffinfool]

I still have not fixed mine. Still having the same issue. Code thrown is camshaft circuit bank 2. I have replaced a fuel injector I thought I might have damaged, I have replaced the plugs, moved coil packs around. It could be the "cheap" eccentric shaft sensor I had to install because I broke the original. I am stuck, and as much as I understand how this engine works, I just cannot find a definite way to troubleshoot an exact cause without throwing money at it.. Sorry I cannot help. I wish I did know, because it's really p*ssing me off that I cannot get this completely fixed...

[armani78]

Wow. I take it is getting frustrating, and like you said, I too really miss mashing the gas pedal...
I'm curious as to how no other DIY guy here didn't encounter similar issues. I'm going to take it in and pay to get this gem of knowledge. I also broke tabs off the eccentric sensor clip and duct taped it on. It doesn't move at all, but I don't want to have to spend $300 for a new sensor on account of broken clips.
I'll post here if I get an answer that's valid.
Thanks

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by McDonaldD

.................................................

SOLVED~My oil consumption/blue smoke cloud issues are resolved, as well as Engine Failsafe Prog that was displayed on the OBC-High display.

It would be more helpful to this forum if you listed what solved the problem.

[jcp240z]

He did. Post #1 explains the blue smoke. Post #2 explains the Fail Safe error due to a loose plug.