Can't open engine hood - HELP!

[nezarnuaimat]

Hi all, I looked for related threads but couldn't find any.

I had some maintenance yesterday and the mechanic looks like closed my engine hood hardly or forgot something in side rails and now; I can't open my engine hood!

There was some backlash I could feel in the black plastic pull-out handle beside the pedals (it was not unlatching until turning nearly all the way) and it looks like this came to an end. Now I'm bulling the handle all the way backward but it's not unlatching the outside hook.

I tried bulling the other hook (emergency hook that is far inside the kidney grill); no help as well.

Any ideas would be very helpful, thanks

[SlickGT1]

You are almost screwed. You might have a broken release cable. I search this site through google. When you type the search in google, just add Xoutpost.

Ok, now the fun part. Take out the grilles. Try to be carefull and not break all the tabs. Then look on realoem which part locks the hood. Then you take a grinder and cut that shit off. Yup, you need to go butcher on this.

[Cezarcaz]

How about having the mechanic that worked on your X take care of the problem he caused? Key him fix it or take it to the dealer and have him pay for it. Good luck


Sent from my iPhone

[Ricky Bobby]

yeah I would take it back to the mechanic first.

but you have two hood locking pins right above your high beams on the inside of the hood which keep it locked, Slick is right you will probably need to carefully pry the grilles out and manually release those locking pins. they have a little spring wrapped around them too.

[rfdude]

Happened to me too. Broke most of the tabs getting the driver side grill out then you can remove the other grill without any breakage of the tips as you can get at the back of it. You can then release the one post that is working by grabbing the cable with some needle nosed pliers (for me it was the passenger side that was still operational). I then took a hacksaw blade and cut the post off on the driver side (yes you can get at it like this). Took some time but did manage to cut it free. Hood then was able to open.

The parts are actually very reasonable in price. I replaced both post locks, both cables and the one post for less than $100 buying then from the stealership even!

BTW, I did find a thread on here somewhere giving me some guidance.

Good luck!

[Qsilver7]

Here's a solution that sometimes works for the e38 & e39 when the interior hood release handle appears to do what's happening to you. It requires another person, or something to block or secure the interior release handle in the opened position (as when it is pulled):

1. pull interior release handle and hold while
2. you or someone pulls upward on the hood/bonnet then
3. pull the release handle that sticks out of the grill

[SlickGT1]

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

Here's a solution that sometimes works for the e38 & e39 when the interior hood release handle appears to do what's happening to you. It requires another person, or something to block or secure the interior release handle in the opened position (as when it is pulled):

1. pull interior release handle and hold while
2. you or someone pulls upward on the hood/bonnet then
3. pull the release handle that sticks out of the grill

I completely forgot, yes try this first.

[TonyN]

happen to me once, most likely the problem is the spring on the latch bolt did not get the full range of motion. Get a long flat head in there to see if you can compress it enough to release it, might give you more room to work get your fingers behind the grill to pop it out.

[nezarnuaimat]

Thanks guys for your help! Yes I took it to that mechanic, he just pushed down the hood a little while I was holding the inner release handle pulled out and bingooo! It releases.

In fact, I had my engine washed (mixture of compressed hot air + some water) and this caused the locking mechanism to get seized.

The cable was checked found ok; when you pull the handle it starts moving all the way with almost no backlash, but the movable spring-loaded locking plates (where the pins go inside) were seized due to lack of lubrication. When we applied some grease there it regained its operation successfully!

By the way, we (the mechanic & I) couldn't find where to calibrate the cable. Any ideas?

[Qsilver7]

Since you have no signature with your X's model/model year/build date...and there are different part nbs for the hood based on build date...I couldn't pull up the correct diagram for your X.

BTW you might want to consider clicking the USER CP link at the top of the page and create a signature that provides some details that can help us help you better (in the future).

Until then, if you go to RealOEM.com * Online BMW Parts Catalog or BMW parts catalog (has more international BMW market info) and enter the last 7 digits of your VIN...you can pull up the hood diagram (go to BODYWORK main group HOOD subgroup) and you'll see the layout of the bowden cables and hood release mechanisms.

Don't forget to check the ejector buttons in your buffer stops (#21)...they should be standing up erect like little soldiers when the hood is lifted...their job is to pop the hood up above the catch when you pull the interior release handle...when they fail or are screwed down to low...they can cause the hood to hang up.

(the hood mechanism & bowden cables (#10/#11/#12) can be seen in the diagram below from a 2006 4.4i diagram...and note the connecting box between #10 & #11 that should be located somewhere along the left fender...it usually can be opened up...which may allow for adjustment...as well as possible adjustment at the other end of the cables)

In the pics below (from an e39) you can see how the bowden cable from inside the cabin connects to the hood's left side bowden cable in the little box (between #10 & #11)...and the 2nd & 3rd pics shows how the left & right bowden cables (#11 & #12) connect in the lower hood locks (#13):

{images below courtesy of: vantaam5 from the M5board dot com}