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#1
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remove/install new front axle
I am about to install new front axles. I have read all the shortcuts and good advice here. To get the wheel hub and the collar nut of will I managed. But when I am about to get the whole axle out I see in TIS you will need a spesial tool, 31 5 110 (Baum Tools , 315110 BMW Output Shaft Prybar AWD) But do I need this, can I just use a crowbar and press it out. I have bought a axle seal so I can replace that as well. (and how to I check the fluid level in the front diff??) |
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#2
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Looks somewhat like a large pickle fork.
__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#3
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Check out this video.
How to do a CV axle on a BMW X5 SUV - YouTube It's a good place to start if you don't have the Bently manual. When I changed both of my front axels, I watch this video and used the manual. I didn't use the special tool but popped out the axel with a similar pry bar in the video. It takes a couple of good wacks and it pops out fairly easily. One thing I did that the guy in the video didn't do was I had to drop the protective plate under the engine bay. I didn't have enough room/leverage to get driver side axel to pop out with the plate underneath. Removing the old seal was fairly easy as well. I just used a screw driver but be sure not to scratch the inside of the housing. Installing the new seal was easy. If you have the tool, great but if not, I used a block of wood and carefully tapped the new eal into place. Overall it was an easy job. just take your time. If i recall correctly, it took me around 3 or 4 hours. Maybe faster for some other folks but taking your time is most important. Good luck. |
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#4
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hahaha . . . "pickle fork"?
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#5
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one large cucumber....
anyway. thanks for the the advice. I have seen that youtube several times. I think I will try without the spesial tool. I will take my time. I have all sunday and monday with some help from a friend. ( He have replaced and axle before but on a different car) I managed to change disk and brakepad last time with help form this site, so I hope I managed this as well. ))
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#6
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Another thing, don't worry about the oil inside, the level should be fine unless you have a lek somewhere. a few drops will come out when yo pull the axel but nothing major.
I can try to scan the instructions in the manual if you really need them (I don't think you need them though) later tonight when I have some free time . . . assuming my printer/scanner is working properly. Let me know. |
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#7
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Excellent
![]() I just thought it might be a good idea to check the diff level just to know everything is fine. Also to sum up. when you have removed the axle and seal. you first just knock the seal in place and then the axle. will the small "seal ring" on the tip of the axle (inside part) just pop in place. If you know what I mean. |
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#8
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__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#9
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You mean the locking clip (the piece inside the groove on the tip/end portion of the axel is called a circlip according to Bently). As you push it in, AFTER installing the seal (becareful not to pop off the spring on the seal - good idea to put a little lubercant/transmission fluid on the metal part of the seal so installing it is easier and the rubber part of the seal itself so the axel slides in easily as well), you should feel it "click", "snap" or "pop" into place. Once in, you will not be able to take it out unless you hammer it out like when you removed the old one.
Also be sure you slide it in easy and turn the axel until the splines (grooves) match with the internal grooves of the differential. I will try to post the instructions later. |
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#10
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I had no idea that's what its called. Still funny though.
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