Write up for fuel pressure regulator change on 4.4?

[oldskoolaudi]

Like the title states. I'm lead to beleive that the problem I have going on with my 04 4.4 is a bad fuel pressure regulator. I'm told this is part of the fuel filter and I was wondering if anyone could give me any pointers or direct me to a diy. I am pretty mechanically inclined if I have a little direction. Thanks.

[upallnight]

How about a video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaw5010KPtU

[admranger]

There's a fuel filter DIY on this site. I don't have the link but I'm pretty sure it is easily searchable...

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by oldskoolaudi

Like the title states. I'm lead to beleive that the problem I have going on with my 04 4.4 is a bad fuel pressure regulator.......

What tests/troubleshooting have you done to reach this conclusion?

[oldskoolaudi]

that vid is for a fuel filter I think the fuel pressure regulator is located with the fuel pump. Am I correct for thinking this? Here's a link to my earlier thread about my problems

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ease-help.html

[upallnight]

Fuel regulator and filter are combined. That's why the filter is so expensive.

Here's a link 02 2002 BMW X5 Fuel Filter - Fuel Delivery - Beck Arnley, Hengst, Mann - PartsGeek

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by oldskoolaudi

that vid is for a fuel filter I think the fuel pressure regulator is located with the fuel pump. Am I correct for thinking this? Here's a link to my earlier thread about my problems

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ease-help.html

To verify if this is a pump/filter/regulator issue you will need to hook up a fuel pressure gage ($20 at Harbor Freight) to the schraeder valve on the fuel rail and read rail pressure. With the key in the run position it should be 51 +/- 3 psi. and only take 2 or 3 seconds to reach that pressure (if it rises slowly you have a clogged filter or bad pump, see NOTE 1 below to identify). Next step, start the engine and let set at idle for 1 minute (high vacuum), pressure should now read 36 to 46 psi. Now disconnect vacuum line from pressure regulator to simulate full load, pressure must increase 6 to 10 psi.

NOTE 1; If pressure did not come up to 51 +/- 3psi, repeat test while gradually pinching return hose to fuel tank. Rapid rise in pressure reading at rail with each pinch verifies pressure regulator is bad. No rise in pressure verifies fuel pump is bad.

A $10 digital voltage indicator that plugs into your cigarette lighter will tell you the condition of your battery (turn key to run position (NOT start), voltage displayed should be over 12.5 volts). The condition of your alternator (start engine, wait 10 seconds and voltage displayed should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts).

Fixing a problem by throwing parts at your vehicle is expensive and frustrating. Diagnosis seems to be turning into a "lost art" not only in the DIYing area but the dealer/indy shops too......and to ALL DIYers, buy a Bentley Manual, it's all there in black and white and saves you from "I had that same issue that was fixed by "INSERT MY FIX HERE" responses". These will leave you with an empty wallet and broken vehicle, NO fun.

These vehicles are MUCH too complex to have issues resolved with the same part every time WITHOUT PROPER DIAGNOSIS. Only fools and neophites think in this manner.

Sorry for the rant, but this is a pet peeve of mine and it has been building up for over 15 years. Several BMW forums I have been a member of (E46Fan is a BIGGIE) have turned into fastest response is right and max post count is ALWAYS right (even though they hit that response count by going on once a week and responding to every thread with a "k".

The tool required to diagnose this issue cost less then 1/3 a tank of gas, why guess and throw part at the problem????

[fatman76]

great post

input like this is one of the best benefits of finding this site...this one is going into my archive

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by fatman76

great post

input like this is one of the best benefits of finding this site...this one is going into my archive

The Bentley manual has hundreds of troubleshooting/diagnosing procedures like the one listed above, the book is worth more then its weight in gold and I cannot understand ANY DIYer not tapping this VAST well of knowledge.

I happen to know this one because I used it to verify the condition of my pump/filter/regulator a short time ago (over 160k miles, no issues, just curious).

[oldskoolaudi]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

To verify if this is a pump/filter/regulator issue you will need to hook up a fuel pressure gage ($20 at Harbor Freight) to the schraeder valve on the fuel rail and read rail pressure. With the key in the run position it should be 51 +/- 3 psi. and only take 2 or 3 seconds to reach that pressure (if it rises slowly you have a clogged filter or bad pump, see NOTE 1 below to identify). Next step, start the engine and let set at idle for 1 minute (high vacuum), pressure should now read 36 to 46 psi. Now disconnect vacuum line from pressure regulator to simulate full load, pressure must increase 6 to 10 psi.

NOTE 1; If pressure did not come up to 51 +/- 3psi, repeat test while gradually pinching return hose to fuel tank. Rapid rise in pressure reading at rail with each pinch verifies pressure regulator is bad. No rise in pressure verifies fuel pump is bad.

A $10 digital voltage indicator that plugs into your cigarette lighter will tell you the condition of your battery (turn key to run position (NOT start), voltage displayed should be over 12.5 volts). The condition of your alternator (start engine, wait 10 seconds and voltage displayed should be 13.7 to 14.7 volts).

Fixing a problem by throwing parts at your vehicle is expensive and frustrating. Diagnosis seems to be turning into a "lost art" not only in the DIYing area but the dealer/indy shops too......and to ALL DIYers, buy a Bentley Manual, it's all there in black and white and saves you from "I had that same issue that was fixed by "INSERT MY FIX HERE" responses". These will leave you with an empty wallet and broken vehicle, NO fun.

These vehicles are MUCH too complex to have issues resolved with the same part every time WITHOUT PROPER DIAGNOSIS. Only fools and neophites think in this manner.

Sorry for the rant, but this is a pet peeve of mine and it has been building up for over 15 years. Several BMW forums I have been a member of (E46Fan is a BIGGIE) have turned into fastest response is right and max post count is ALWAYS right (even though they hit that response count by going on once a week and responding to every thread with a "k".

The tool required to diagnose this issue cost less then 1/3 a tank of gas, why guess and throw part at the problem????

Thanks so much! I totally agree with you. I'm scared too death to take it to the stealership and my indy who is a certified BMW tech seems to want to throw some parts at it. I do this usually to narrow my search down cause I really had no clue where to start. My Indy said first it was software so we did that and the problem came back. Then people said it was the battery but another tech said that should throw low voltage warning on the dash. He said the 3.0's had cam sensor issues but wasn't too sure for the 4.4. Then my indy said he thinks it's the fpr and my research has led me to that being the next step. So far I've not wasted more than $60 on it and I figure a fuel filter won't break the bank to replace and see if it solves the problem. I will take your advice and buy the bentley and follow the diagnostic. Thanks again!