Water in the oil

ruskie34e36 · #1 02-12-2013, 01:55 PM

Hey folks,
This seems to be a come-and-go problem for me.. When I first bought the car, checking the oil, you'd see the tell-tale sign of water/oil sludge on the very end of the dipstick. After a while, and a few oil changes (flushed the system with some seafoam), I stopped seeing it. Also seemed to help almost eliminate the famous E53 oil consumption (I also let some seafoam sit in the cylinders overnight). So far so good. Mileage up, oil consumption down, no water.
Almost three years later, I am seeing the same problem again (water).
Went to change my plugs this morning, and inside of the fill cap had some water sludge, looks almost like lard, but a bit more yellowish. It was, however about 30 degrees outside. So i get why it would solidify. Oil itself looks good, I am positive the headgasket or anything that major is not blown. Just seems to have water in the system.
I've tried conventional oil, and synthetic. Anyone had this happen? Is it another "acceptable" issue as per BMW? Im starting to think if there are any separators or whatnot that can be cleaned/replaced, but wanted to get the opinion of the community here.

On the side note - getting ready to replace the fluid in the front diff soon, and will pull the skid plate down. Ive looked up the parts (bolts are single use), but the diagram seems to list two sizes that go thru the plate. # 2 & # 4 on the diagram. Everyone says there are 6 bolts total, but they are all the same. Last time I was under there, I remember 4 big bolts, which would be the M12, seems like. My question is which are single use then?
Frnt axle support, wishbone/tension strut BMW X5 E53, X5 3.0i (M54)

ruskie34e36 · #2 02-12-2013, 03:17 PM

Sorry, forgot. 2001 3.0L

ake53 · #3 02-12-2013, 03:58 PM

hey rusak, did you look into the CCV?

ruskie34e36 · #4 02-12-2013, 04:27 PM

I have, but haven't seen any good write-ups or references.. seen one?
it almost seems like it would be the most obviuous problem, but having it come back all of the sudden baffles me.. so I thought id search for other ideas or possibilities..

JCL · #5 02-12-2013, 04:41 PM

If by water in the oil you mean the yellowish paste that forms in the engine, then it is most likely due to condensation in the engine. You can get moisture from the cooling system, but you don't mention that you are losing coolant, so let's put that aside.

Every time you start up and later cool down the engine, you go through a heat cycle that results in condensation forming inside the engine. In the normal course of activities, you would drive long enough and hard enough so that the engine gets good and hot, and the moisture is boiled off out of the oil. If you don't get it hot enough, or drive it long enough (ie lots of short trips, never fully warming up) then it emulsifies with the oil at the highest point inside the engine (under the valve cover) and forms the condensate paste. This can happen at any temperature, it doesn't have to be freezing out. This is in no way caused by the CCV. The connection to the CCV is that if you do get this paste, and it collects over time, it can also collect in the CCV, which is the ventilation path from the valve cover. Not a big deal, except that the CCV is a distance from a heat source, and the paste contains moisture. So, if you now get a really cold spell, the paste can freeze. If the CCV freezes in the closed position, it can pressurize your crankcase and the oil will blow out the easiest path, usually a valve cover gasket. If it freezes in the open position, in conditions of high vacuum (overrun) then oil can be drawn from the dipstick tube up and into the intake manifold, and in extreme cases you can get a hydraulic lock in one or more cylinders. Bad news.

The CCV is not separating moisture from the oil, it is separating oil mist from the fumes inside the crankcase. It returns the separated oil to the sump.

It appears you do have the paste inside the CCV, since the CCV has a drain tube down to the dipstick, and so if you draw the dipstick and see it, that is the path.

First way to solve this is to get it good and hot, for 30 minutes or so, once per week. If that isn't possible, do more frequent (and hot) oil changes to clean out the engine. If you want to address the risk of freezing the CCV, take it off and service it, either cleaning it out or replacing it.

Lots of reading here on the site on this subject. There is also lots of confusion whereby the CCV is seen as a cause, rather than as a risk of freezing once the paste has formed and collected.

upallnight · #6 02-12-2013, 04:51 PM

What would you use to clean the CCV? Can you leave it connected and then do an oil change if you use solvent to clean it?

JCL · #7 02-12-2013, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upallnight

What would you use to clean the CCV? Can you leave it connected and then do an oil change if you use solvent to clean it?

You are cleaning out all the paste in it, and in the lines. Also inspecting the lines to see if any have gone soft. In some CCVs (I don't think all of them) there is a replaceable rubber diaphram that BMW sells a repair kit for. You would have to take the CCV off to clean it properly, so most just replace it after having done that much work.

Doing a hot oil change doesn't clean out the CCV, since oil doesn't circulate through it, only crankcase fumes.

ruskie34e36 · #8 02-13-2013, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCL

You are cleaning out all the paste in it, and in the lines. Also inspecting the lines to see if any have gone soft. In some CCVs (I don't think all of them) there is a replaceable rubber diaphram that BMW sells a repair kit for. You would have to take the CCV off to clean it properly, so most just replace it after having done that much work.

Doing a hot oil change doesn't clean out the CCV, since oil doesn't circulate through it, only crankcase fumes.

Isn't there a test for the CCV (very strong vacuum at the filler cap or none at all?) My question is whether or not theres a way to find out if you're in danger.. Ive seen most (i think) posts about the ccv here, but its mostly about replacing one. Its not exactly a cheap fix..
One detail - also once in a blue moon, and completely unpredictable, usually when Im out of town - car will start up and run rough. Sometimes check engine light comes on. Let it sit for a couple days, starts just fine, smooth and no light. Can't remember the last time it did this, but thought it might be a symptom...

pezho405 · #9 02-12-2013, 05:16 PM

Zdarova

ruskie34e36 · #10 02-13-2013, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pezho405

Zdarova

Zdarova! Otkuda?