N62 oil catch can.

[BigBlack48is]

A B Able Truck,

How is your scotch bright trick holding up, any modifications or issues that have been required since the installation? I have been thinking about your trick every few weeks ( while adding oil to be best )

This morning I came across this ( Fine Copper, 5-lbs reel, single reel ). it is to my understanding that copper is non-reactive with solvents / oil, and I have a concern about the scotch bright pad breaking down and turning into an abrasive...

[StephenVA]

Originally Posted by A B Able Truck

Here's a great link that breaks down all BMW models, vins., engine & trans. #'s.


http://prodcds.bmwuniversity.com/lib...20to%20BMW.pdf

http://prodcds.bmwuniversity.com/cou..._Intro2BMW.pdf

Loved it!

[Doru]

My X was using oil very heavy - about 1qt/300Km and heavy smoking.
It's 2004 4.4 with the N62. I did change all the seals AND the valve stem seals. I don't know if the valve stem seals were the cure, or all the other seals that I changed. There were oil leaks everywhere - upper timing covers, solenoids O-rings, etc. What I did certainly stopped the smoking AND oil consumption. Haven't added oil any since I did the procedure (fingers crossed).

Anyway, if you do that, I would suggest to change also that water pipe. I did that too thinking preventative maintenance - I had no coolant leaks. But when I pulled out the OE pipe, half of the circumference of the front rubber seal was already come unglued and the pipe started to corrode underneath, so it was only a matter of time. I used the AGA pipe just because they use the right rubber for the O-ring.

[Doru]

Originally Posted by crwarren11

Doru, do you have the correct p/n for the updated valve stem seals? Love your DIY on this btw, very nicely done!

It's the same p/n you find on real oem. Just get the Elring Klinger ones (red Viton rubber inside). Don't get any other brand.
For the VCG gaskets, try to snatch the latest manufactured ones. Apparently BMW realized they were using the wrong rubber, and they switched to Viton for them as well. you'll be doing the job only once. The Viton VCG replacement is for all BMW models. When you order make sure of the manufacturing date (no older than last year I believe) - here is Rajae's post (the guy who did the aftermarket Vanos seals for BMW's)

BTW, my X had 158,000 Km when I changed all the seals (approx. 98 K miles)

[Omerta]

Did you do it yourself?

[Johnny_5]

Yes as Doru stated go with the Elring Klinger set. The job isn't that hard more tedious than anything! It can be a bit intimidating but you just got to dive right into it! I haven't replaced the pipe yet on mine but is on my todo list.

[A B Able Truck]

crwarren11 -
More then likely you will need valve stem seals if they've never been changed. When purchasing a used vehicle it may not be possible to know if the previous owner did or not. IMO oil heading thru the intake from the CCVs should be resolved first - especially if you've already replaced the valve cover gaskets and there's still intake oil. I used clear plastic tubes with a makeshift catch basin for a visual of what was happening.


You also need to measure crankcase vacuum to see if the crankcase is sealed (is the oil filler cap & o-rings on dipstick sealing???)

I also found excessive carbon buildup on my piston tops which caused an uneven burn (excessive condensation)

More info;
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/album.php?u=346089

You're also in Orange County CA & AGA is just down the road (Escondido)

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by A B Able Truck

crwarren11 -
More then likely you will need valve stem seals if they've never been changed. When purchasing a used vehicle it may not be possible to know if the previous owner did or not. IMO oil heading thru the intake from the CCVs should be resolved first - especially if you've already replaced the valve cover gaskets and there's still intake oil. I used clear plastic tubes with a makeshift catch basin for a visual of what was happening.
Attachment 65352

You also need to measure crankcase vacuum to see if the crankcase is sealed (is the oil filler cap & o-rings on dipstick sealing???)

I also found excessive carbon buildup on my piston tops which caused an uneven burn (excessive condensation)

More info;
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/album.php?u=346089

You're also in Orange County CA & AGA is just down the road (Escondido)

How long have the clear tubes been holding up? I've been looking for a turbo drain hose solution that is clear on my turbo car.

Also wanting to do this on the X5 to curb oil consumption as well. I thought it was all leakage (need VC gaskets, UTC gaskets, etc) but the more I read about the n62 the more I think it's ending up in the combustion chambers.

[A B Able Truck]

Originally Posted by crystalworks

How long have the clear tubes been holding up? I've been looking for a turbo drain hose solution that is clear on my turbo car.

Also wanting to do this on the X5 to curb oil consumption as well. I thought it was all leakage (need VC gaskets, UTC gaskets, etc) but the more I read about the n62 the more I think it's ending up in the combustion chambers.

8>10 months - 8,000 miles +
They hold up OK but with the oil mist & engine heat they are now light brown.
I'm replacing the waterpump, hoses, etc. - so I'm replacing my clear CCV hose just cause I've got several feet left over from the initial fabrication.

[A B Able Truck]

Originally Posted by crwarren11

I have not gone back yet to see if oil is getting going from the crankcase to the intake after replacing the VCG's and all the other gaskets/o-rings. I also haven't checked vacuum pressure after the work. I never got a clear answer on if my readings were good or not. These were before changing the VCG's:
Bank 1 @ intake manifold (upper connection): 50mbar
Bank 1 @ CCV (PCV) valve exit: 50mbar
When revving the engine, the pressure would fluctuate a little bit and stabilize at 50mbar at both locations.
Bank 2 @ intake manifold (lower connection): 50mbar
Bank 2 @ CCV (PCV) valve exit: 13-22mbar
When revving the engine, the pressure would fluctuate and stabilize at 50mbar at the intake manifold, but at the CCV there was little to no pressure change at all.
Not sure if that helps or not. If you look at the pics I posted, I didn't see any carbon buildup like you had shown in previous posts. They all looked pretty clean to me, but I didn't get great shots of the exhaust valves.
I can quickly check the vacuum pressure at the dipstick tonight. I just need to know what it should be at idle, at rev, etc. The dipstick isn't particularly difficult to remove while the engine is running and didn't seem to pull a lot of vacuum, but I didn't measure it and 20-50mbar is so low that I probably couldn't discern with that test if it was any higher than that.
After so much reading on the subject, I have basically decided to do the valve stem seals - they have definitely never been done before. I will buy or rent the AGA tool to do it and use the Viton seals, and hope for the best. I'm probably a couple months away from finding the time to tackle the job, though.

Not sure if I already posted this photo but;
I cut a piece of coat hanger about 4" and bent over the ends - used a hose clamp to secure in place of the CCV caps so I could watch the diaphragms work while testing. I also used the boot from an old spark plug wire (dist. cap side) for my vacuum gauge hose on the oil dipstick tube.

Edit - a better photo


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