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#1
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A/C Issue, blowing hot air, FSR issue?
Well some backstory first, I have replaced the FSR 2 separate times in 1 year. Last week the A/C stayed on after turning the car off. When I mean turned on, it showed the display with 16ºC instead of the 60ºF, and pushing the buttons on the display did NOTHING. The fan wasn't blowing at all when it did this. I removed fuse #45 and the display turned off. Replaced fuse and the following day the A/C started only blowing hot air. I don't think the clutch is coming on anymore either. I noticed the aux fan was not coming on either, and thought it might have gone out...again. I had the Aux fan and Clutch replaced last year for almost $1000 dollars at a mechanic with 1 year warranty (could have already passed warranty because it was in July when I replaced it). Anyways, the other night, I got out of the car and heard the fan spinning and saw it physically spinning. SO I jumped back in and turned it on and turned the A/C. Still hot air! I drove it around, still hot air. Came back and parked it and the fan had gone off! UGH!! So I thought, well maybe the refrigerant was out. I went to autozone and bought a can of R134a with the gauge. When I plugged in the gauge, the needle did a complete spin and lodged itself underneath the 0psi starting point (there was a pin to hold the needle) So It seemed WAY over pressurized. I released pressure and got it down to 0 PSI. Started putting the can in. 2 short squirts and it was overpressurizing again. WTF? The can is full of refridgerant, I couldn't have put that much in already! I released the pressure and placed it to the recommended level. Still, hot A/C. At this point, I'm stuck. Where do I look for replacements? Side note: the Thermostat appears to be stuck open, and I am in the process of purchasing a new one in a few weeks when I get paid again. Amazon has the Thermostat, Temperature sensor, Aftermarket complient coolant and shipping for about $120 total. I plan on doing it myself. But my question is, could the thermostat be causing the A/C problem? I notice my gauge on the temperature reads at the 1/4 mark, not the halfway mark very often, even after driving for a while. I took a roadtrip Tuesday night to Fresno (about 200 miles away) and the temperature only got up to halfway once in the whole trip. Anyone have a clue? 2001 BMW X5 3.0i 06/2001 build date. Thanks!
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U.S.A. 2001 BMW X5, 3.0i Manufacturer date: 06/01 |
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#2
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It might be the HVAC head unit. You might need somebody with the right software setup to get to the bottom of this problem.
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Sent via Telegraph Wires using my Morse Key. 2021 X5 xDrive40i 2015 X5 xDrive35i MSport (Traded) 2013 X5 xDrive35i |
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#3
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Quote:
Can you clarify, what is the HVAC head unit? Where is it located?
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U.S.A. 2001 BMW X5, 3.0i Manufacturer date: 06/01 |
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#4
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Was the engine running when you tried to put the refrigerant in? Are you sure you got the connector all the way in?
I know they make the new connector basically idiot proof, but there's always an idiot that comes along and some how manage to circumvent the idiot proof ideas of the best engineers. The low pressure port is the one with the smallest fitting. It's a bayonet fitting on the connector, you need to pull back on the outer ring and insert the fitting into the low pressure shraeder valve. Once it's fully seated release the outer ring.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD Last edited by upallnight; 07-26-2013 at 07:03 PM. |
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#5
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Well thanks for that vote of confidence and that IQ bashing, but yes I did make sure the connector was firmly in place on the correct port. Like I said the system was way over pressurized, and I released pressure down. The gauge basically had a white, green and red section, and I released it down to the white section, pushed the button down for a total of .25 seconds and it filled all the way to the red. the system has too much pressure for some reason.
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U.S.A. 2001 BMW X5, 3.0i Manufacturer date: 06/01 |
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#6
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If you are getting that kind of reading on the low side I would say that your compressor valve on the low side has taken a dump.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#7
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I'm guessing I need a new compressor then?
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U.S.A. 2001 BMW X5, 3.0i Manufacturer date: 06/01 |
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#8
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Base on what you posted yes, but I would hook up a complete ac manifold gauge set and check the low side pressure and the high side pressure. If the compressor did take a dump you will need to flush out the evaporator and condenser or else you will ruin the new compressor. You will need to also replace the dessicant or drier in the system depending on what you have.
Careful with that reading on the low side because a can of refrigerant is not made to with stand 300PSI. That is why people caution diyers not to open the high side valve when they are charging the system
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD Last edited by upallnight; 07-26-2013 at 07:59 PM. |
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#9
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Can you post a picture of the bayonet fitting that you are using to refill the system with refrigerant? Does it have a knob that you can twist once the fitting is connected to the system? If you do have a knob you need to turn that knob clockwise to open the shraeder valve and before removing the fitting you need to turn it counter clockwise to close the shraeder valve.
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#10
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Not to hijack this thread but, any update on your ac issue? My 2003 3.0i has the same issue blowing hot air and had high pressure.... It worked fine in the morning going to work and when starting up to go home, only hot air. I released the pressure to the green area on the gauge and nothing.
I was going to start with the least expensive trigger point and replace the high pressure switch. It's only $35 online and go from there. Thoughts?
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"I can’t understand it. I can’t even understand the people who can understand it" Queen Juliana (1909-2004), of the Netherlands "If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice!" 2004 X5 4.8is Imola Red-228K ZF-GA6HP26Z-Sold 2006 X3 3.0i Mystic Blue-175K, ///M pkg 6-Spd Manual- Trading in 6/10/17 for a Mini too! 2003 Silver X5 3.0- sold 2000 VW Beetle 1.8 turbo-165K- Totaled 9/11/16 |
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